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JAPAN 



AS \^^E SAW^ IT. 



BY 

ROBT. S. GARDINER, 



COPYRIGHTED BY THE AUTHOR, 1892. 



DESIGNED, ENGRAVED, AND PRINTED 



BOSTON. 



JAPAN REFERENCE 
LIBRARY 

NEW YORK 




48 






'^ 



TO MY FRIEND 

ERNEST FRANCISCO FENOLLOSA, 

THROUGH WHOM THE HOMES AND THE HEARTS OF THE 

JAPANESE WERE OPENED TO US, AND TO WHOM, 

DURING HIS ELEVEN YEARS' RESIDENCE IN 

JAPAN, THE PRESERVATION OF HER 

ARTS MAY, IN A GREAT MEASURE, 

BE ASCRIBED, 

THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. 



P R B K, A C E 



IN compiling this little volume for publication, its purpose should be 
understood as practical rather than literary. Many persons of moderate 
means and fond of travel desire to visit Japan, but are deterred from 
so doing by the lack of positive information as to the cost of making the 
journey and the methods by which it is made. 

The modes of travel, methods of living as travellers, and habits and 
peculiarities of the people herein given, are reproduced from the writer's 
journal without any attempt at literary polish, and are based on his own 
experiences. The expense is such as a man and wife desiring to see Japan 
under the most comfortable conditions must necessarily meet, when stop- 
ping at the best hotels or inns, travelling first class upon railways and 
steamships, and in other ways not attempting the close economy sometimes 
practised by travellers. 

The writer, with his wife, having devoted exactly four months to the trip, 
finds that — including cost of through tickets from Boston to Yokohama 
and return (I435 each), sleeping-cars, dining-cars, Hving expenses at hotels 
and inns, wines and cigars, entertainment of friends, railroad, steamship, 
and jinrikisha expenses, wages and transportation of Japanese attendant, 
donations to servants, and, in short, everything but articles purchased — 
the entire cost is under $2,000 gold; or, to be exact, $1,875.05. 

It should however be borne in mind that practically as much may be 
seen, and at less expense, by those who are content to accept more humble 
accommodations. 

In the route followed it was sought to visit representative places on 
and off the beaten tracks, and to witness the various features of Japanese 



PREFACE. 



scenery, temples, people, and industries, without unnecessary repetition and 
consequent expense and loss of time. To illustrate : the traveller in Japan 
may spend months in visiting temples located in hundreds of different 
places; but the writer chose one place (Nikko) as the representative temple 
city, after which temples were simply incidental to his regular route. In 
like manner visits to special industrial or manufacturing places were limited 
to those points where it was possible to see a particular article manufactured 
according to the best representative methods, and to be satisfied without 
journeying to other places to see the same thing done under perhaps little 
different conditions. 

It is not assumed that the routes followed present a greater variety 
than others not mentioned; but where the question of a lady's comfort or 
endurance are considered, the writer believes the journey as here set forth 
fully covers what may be seen in Japan. 

Having determined to make the journey, and practically to go over the 
same ground herein shown, the purchase of Murray's Handbook of apan^ 
compiled by Mr. Basil Hall Chamberlain of Tokio, is recommended for 
minute and historical details of places and things mentioned in these 
pages. 

The English and Japanese vocabulary of words and phrases shown as 
an appendix hereto is taken from Farsari's convenient little pocketbook of 
Japanese Words and Phrases, published by Kelly & Walsh of Yokohama, 
and embraces such nouns, verbs, requests, questions and answers as the 
"foreigner" is likely to require during a limited stay in the country. A 
mastery of the language can only be had by study, patience, and practice, 
and it will be found necessary under any circumstances to secure the services 
of a native guide or servant who understands more or less of English. 
Japanese weights and measures, with the English equivalents, and passage 
rates of the Japanese Steamship Co., will also be found in the appendix. 

In the matter of clothing the traveller may safely be guided by what his 
requirements in corresponding seasons would be in the latitude of New 
York or Boston. Winter in Japan is simultaneous with winter in the latter 
named localities: not as severe to be sure, but for the reasons that the 



PREFACE. 5 



Japanese houses (hotels and inns) are not built to keep out cold, and that 
their means of heating are inadequate, warm clothing and wraps should be 
worn or carried. In summer the nights are usually cool, and light wraps are 
necessary. 

Aside from the question of clothing requirements in Japan, every ocean 
traveller has experienced the necessity of heavy coats, caps, and hoods, and 
thick-soled boots at sea. 

Each person should be provided with an inflatable rubber pillow for support 
to the back in jinrikishas, and for use as a pillow in tea-houses or inns. 

A pair of heavy, short-legged overstockings, with chamois or sheep skin 
soles, but without heels, are convenient to slip on when entering temples, 
tea-houses, or Japanese residences ; for in the two first named the foreigner 
is not expected to wear boots, and in most cases is prohibited from doing 
so, while to wear boots in a Japanese residence would be considered as 
great an outrage as entering an American parlor in muddy overshoes and 
carrying a dripping umbrella. 

The best months in which to visit Japan are the last half of September, 
October, and November ; then April, May, and June ; and lastly February 
and March. July, August, and the first half of September are out of the 
question on account of extreme heat and attendant annoyances of odors and 
vermin. 

Letters of introduction to foreigners resident in Japan, or to natives of 
position, are oftentimes very useful, and nearly always result in invitations 
to "teas," receptions, "tiffins," or dinners. Therefore the gentleman should 
have his dress suit and the lady her evening costume. Suits of rough, 
serviceable material are required for travel, particularly in jinrikishas, 
sampans, and chairs. Underclothing and linen may be reduced to the 
minimum, as facilities for laundering exist everywhere. 

A letter of credit is the usual means secured for obtaining money abroad, 
but the writer's previous experience led him to purchase checks of the 
Cheque Bank of London, in denominations of five, ten, and twenty pounds, 
negotiable not only at any bank in the East, but at many hotels and large 
foreign commercial houses. Experience shows that they are fully as safe 



PREFACE. 



as the letter of credit, and certainly cause less annoyance in matter of 
identification, or in event of requiring money on bank holidays. 

Care should be observed in the use of drinking water in Japan. That 
supplied by the v^aterworks of Yokohama and Nagasaki can be safely drunk. 
At Nikko and Miyanoshita, pure water coming from the mountain springs is 
served in the hotels. But in all other places mentioned I would strongly 
advise the use of " Hirano," the bottled Japanese water, or Apollinaris, 
either of which are generally obtainable. Under no circumstances should 
w^ater from wells or roadside springs be drunk, unless you are sure it has 
been boiled and filtered. 

Japanese lager beer of good quality, either Kirin or Yebesii brands, is 
obtainable throughout the country, while wines, liquors (excepting American 
whiskey), canned goods, jellies, and every variety of English biscuits, are 
sold at the foreign grocery houses in Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki. 

The best brands of Manilla cigars are sold at very low prices, and 
American smoking tobaccos at high prices, in foreign stores found in the 
treaty ports. 

A passport or other official document of identity should be secured 
before leaving home, and letters of introduction to the Minister to Japan, 
or consuls at treaty ports, from one's country will be found useful in the 
obtaining of passports and special permits, or the social attentions usually 
extended to accredited foreigners. 

Personal visiting cards are expected to be presented when seeking entry 
to many places, and these should not be forgotten. 

The general map inserted inside the back cover may be relied upon as 
correct, the details having been gathered by the writer from observation, as 
also from reliable data furnished by various writers and travellers, and finally 
corrected by the highest geographical authority in Japan. 



CONTKNTS. 



PAGE 

The Journey Westward ii 

Yokohama 17 

Enoshima, Kamakura, and Yokosuka . . . . . '30 

District of Hakone 34 

Atami in Idzu 39 

Politeness, Morality, and Honesty ...... 41 

ToKio, THE Capital - 44 

Social Courtesies 51 

NiKKO .59 

Southwest from Tokio 63 

Kioto 67 

Osaka 76 

Nara . ... 79 

Kobe 82 

Islands of Awaji and Shikoku . 85 

The Inland Sea 92 

Nagasaki and Vicinity 97 

ToKiTsu, Ureshino, Arita, etc 104 

Appendix 115 

Japanese Money. Distance Measure. Cloth Measure. Land Measure. 

Passenger Rates on Japanese Steamship Company's Steamers. 

Pronunciation. English and Japanese Words and Phrases. 

General Index 133 

7 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

According to Law 42 

Aiidon, or Japanese Lantern . . 87 

Arched Rock near Nagasaki . . 96 

Arishi-yama 74 

Atami 39 

Bamboo Forest, Road through. . loi 

Bank Shroff 19 

Bath, Inn 86 

Bingo, Tomb of 93 

Bridge to Imperial Palace Grounds, 

Tokio 49 

Bronze Horse Temple, Entrance 

to 99 

Bund, Yokohama 20 

Castle at Nagoya 64 

Clay Pulverizer 106 

Club Hotel, Tokio 46 

Club Hotel, Yokohama .... 18 

Common Village House .... 63 

Country Inn 108 

Curio Shop 26 

Dai-Butsu, Kamakura 32 

Earthquake, Result on Railroad . 65 

Empress of India, Steamship . . 13 

Enoshima, Descent on 31 

Enoshima in the Distance ... 30 

First Theatre, Tokio 48 

Footwear of Japanese 29 



PAGE 

Gate to Shiba Temple, Tokio . . 44 

Gateway to Imperial Palace ... 48 

Geyser and Sanitarium, Atami . . 39 

Grand Canal, Osaka 76 

Grand Hotel, Yokohama .... 18 

Great Bell, Nikko 61 

Great Gate, Nikko 59 

Hakone, Approaching yj 

Hakone Lake 37 

Hibachi, Copper 87 

Hibachi, or Warming Pot ... 53 

Imperial Hotel, Tokio .... 45 

Interior, Japanese House ... 52 

Jinrikisha 18 

Jinrikisha Road, Nikko to Imai- 

chi 61 

Junk, Japanese 17 

Kameido Bridge, Tokio .... 48 

Kintaikyo Bashi 94 

Kioto Hotel 67 

Kitchen Girl 36 

Kiyomizu Temple 70 

Kobe, Foreign Front of ... . 82 

Lady, Japanese 53 

Landing Wharf, Yokohama ... 17 

Lavatory of Inn 89 

Mainaga Bridge 57 



lO 



ILLUSTRA TIONS. 



PAGE 

Mississippi Bay 25 

Miyanoshita 35 

Modem Building 27 

Mountain Chair 36 

Nagasaki 97 

Nara, Lake at 79 

Nikko Hotel 62 

Nishi - Hongwanji Temple, En- 
trance to 69 

Nunobiki Waterfall, Kobe ... 83 

Passport, Japanese ...... 21 

Pillow, Japanese 88 

Pipes, Japanese 109 

Roadside Well in 

Room Girl 90 

Sacred Bridge, Nikko 60 



PAGE 

Samisen Girl and Coolie .... 72 

Sampan 17 

Shimbashi Station, Tokio ... 49 

Shimid 24 

Social Chat 102 

Soraban . 19 

Sumoto, On Road to 86 

Tokitsu, Approaching 105 

Tokoshima Beauty 91 

Tower at Asakusa 47 

Tunnel on Road to Hosu ... ']Tj 

Tunnel Rock, Atami 40 

Umbrella Maker ....... 46 

Urakami, Bit of 104 

Vegetable Seller 77 

Yumoto 34 



Japan As We Saw Ix, 



THE JOURNEY WESTWARD. 

THE two modes of reaching Japan from the Atlantic coast of America 
were duly considered from the standpoint of time, expense, and 
possible effects of radical and frequent changes of climate. 

Crossing the Atlantic to Great Britain, and by rail through France, 
Switzerland, and Italy to Brindisi, thence by the steamships of the Peninsular 
and Oriental Line through the Suez Canal, Red Sea, and Indian Ocean to 
Colombo, Penang, Singapore, and Hong Kong, would bring us into Japan by 
the back door, consume forty-five days at least, and necessitate experiencing 
the winter weather of the North Atlantic, shortly followed by a fortnight 
upon or near the equator ; besides which the cost would be more than twice 
as much as to cross the American continent by rail, and thence traverse the 
Pacific direct to Japan's front gate • — Yokohama. 

As four months was fixed as the limit of the vacation, and the trans- 
pacific route promised to land us in Japan in less than twenty days, we 
decided upon that method of getting there. 

Montreal was reached in the evening of the day we left home ; and the 
following night found us in a through sleeping car of the Canadian Pacific 
Railway, bound for Vancouver. 

I will not ask my readers to follow us over the two thousand nine 
hundred miles of rail traversed to the Pacific, or consume their time with 
incidents of the journey, or descriptions of the mountain scenery through 
which we passed. These the artist has not tired of picturing, and over them 
the prose writer and poet have not ceased their rhapsodies. And well they 
may continue so to do, for it would seem, when we enter the Rockies on 
the fourth day from Montreal, as though Nature had thrown together these 



12 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

mountain barriers, saying to man, "Thus far shalt thou go, and no farther"; 
but the restless, unconquerable skill and will of the engineer has taken up 
the gage, and triumphed over Nature itself. 

After the Rockies come the Selkirks, around which the Columbia circles, 
and then the Frazer River, along which the railway clings to its narrow 
foothold, first on one side and then the other, until in many places at dizzy 
heights no possibility of passing the rock-cliff face seems left; but the same 
will, the same persistence that conquered at the first, bores the mountains 
with tunnel after tunnel. Thus, during the last thirty-six hours of the 
journey a series of unsurpassed mountain, canon, and river scenery is pre- 
sented. 

Famiharity with the passes of the Andes on the Cusco Road of Peru, 
and with the famous mountain climbs on the Vera Cruz road of Mexico, had 
led me to think that these two stood " head and shoulders " above any other 
possible engineering on the continent, barring of course mechanical roads ; 
but if, after crossing the Canadian Pacific, I have not taken down the ideals 
I had set up, I will at least accord to each of the three, surmounted diffi- 
culties, pecuHarities, and beauties not possessed by the others. 

Vancouver is reached exactly on time — five days, eighteen hours, and 
fifteen minutes from Montreal. Three days at that excellent hotel the 
Vancouver House ; a drive around Stanley Park and a look at the big trees ; 
the acceptance of social courtesies from Vancouver friends; a visit to 
Victoria, a flourishing city of twenty-five thousand inhabitants, down the 
Gulf — these fill up the time agreeably until the day of sailing arrives. 

The Empress of India, on which we had secured passage, lies along- 
side the wharf adjoining the Vancouver Railway Station, and it was with no 
little curiosity that we mounted her side ladder on " sailing day." Nearly 
five hundred feet long and with a beam of fifty-one feet, except for her 
white painted sides and long sharp prow she differs but little from the 
modern " Atlantic Liner." In fact, give to the Cunarder Etrtiria the bow 
of the City of Paris., paint her sides white, and enclose her upper deck 
gangways in steel, and she will resemble the Einpress of India as nearly 
as a landsman may desire. 

Familiarity with vessels of that class had led us to expect the electric 
lighted cabin, luxurious library, commodious and well ventilated smoking 
room, and the ornate dining saloon, resembling with its central glass dome, 
illuminated windows, and vis-a-vis family tables, the high class cafe of our 
American cities. In these respects we were not disappointed; while the 
extensive promenade decks, numerous porcelain baths, and more than 



JAPAN AS WE SA JV IT. 



13 




14 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

ordinary sized cabins conveyed an idea of liberality which gladdened the 
heart of the intended voyager. 

The three steamships composing the line — viz., th^ Empress of India, 
Empress of Japan, and Empress of China — are of the English cruiser 
type, and may be utilized by Great Britain for war purposes should occasion 
require. Under the conditions imposed by the English Government, the 
vessels must be commanded by officers of the British Naval Reserve ; 
therefore the voyager goes on board with an assurance that the " man on 
the bridge " is, by education and experience, fitted to guard the lives and 
property entrusted to his care. Many of the subordinate officers we found 
had been drawn from the Australian, Atlantic, and Mediterranean services ; 
and that these men are capable seamen is evidenced by the fact that two of 
the ships are now commanded by those who had served as first officers on 
this line. 

Before the " all ashore " signal was given we had been mentally " sizing 
up " those whom we imagined were to be our fellow passengers. Of the 
bevy of pretty girls gathered around an elderly gentleman and lady in the 
library we had selected two, as probably daughters who were to cross the 
Pacific with their parents. The large man with the jolly red face, puffing 
upon a cigar while recounting his sea experiences to a group of willing 
listeners, we fancied would do much to make the smoking room a pleasant 
resort; while a group of young Enghshmen cast occasional glances from 
their position at the head of the saloon stairways at the before mentioned 
bevy of girls, probably looking forward to flirtation strolls around the 
promenade decks, or chats with the fair ones in the cosy corners of the 
parlor. Others were bustling from their cabins, where the " dunnage " for 
use upon the voyage was being stowed away, to the main deck, where friends 
were waiting to say " good-by." 

Fathers and mothers, with tear-dimmed eyes, were giving their final 
injunctions to sons about to seek their fortunes in the Orient; while a group 
of newly-made missionaries, bound for China and Japan, hung over the rail, 
wondering if in the field they were about to enter a crowd of "heathens" 
would differ much from the hundreds of human beings assembled on the 
dock to see the ship move away. 

The last piece of "luggage" has been lowered into the baggage room. 
The mails from Europe and Canada are on board. The clarion tones of the 
Chinese gong, brought forth by its appropriate keeper, a Chinese boy, 
summon those who belong on shore to go there. The passenger gangway 
or side ladder is hauled up by the blue jackets ; the electric signal for 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 1 5 

"engines" is given from the bridge, and amid a fluttering of handkerchiefs 
on board and ashore our mammoth steel home moves away on her long 
voyage. 

From Vancouver to Victoria (eighty-two miles) the land-locked passage 
is one of ever changing beauty. Through the narrows, where upon the left 
is seen all that remains of the " Beaver," the first steam vessel to churn the 
Pacific ; then onward through a myriad of islands in the Gulf of Georgia,, 
more picturesquely planted than the most skillful lover of Nature could 
suggest, until Victoria is reached, where more passengers are taken aboard. 
Once more under way, in a few hours Cape Flattery is passed ; and here the 
first swells of the Pacific are felt, and the ocean voyage commences. 

At our first meal the, to us, novel feature was presented of neatly 
apparelled Chinese boys for waiters ; and the easy, noiseless way in which 
they received and filled their orders was in marked contrast to the white 
waiter usually found on shipboard. All these "boys" (a Chinese or 
Japanese servant may be eighteen or eighty years old, but he is alw^ays a 
"boy") understand a little Enghsh, although each item on the bills of fare 
for breakfast, tifiin, and dinner is numbered consecutively to prevent mis- 
understanding, and passengers generally order by the numbers. 

Breakfast and lunch are served without much formality, but at the 
evening dinner the ladies are smartly dressed, and black coats predominate 
among the gentlemen. 

Every one appeared at the first dinner, for it was served shortly after 
leaving Vancouver ; and this general assembhng gave us the opportunity of 
finding out that many of those we had mentally numbered as passengers 
before starting were not of our number now. Our jolly appearing friend 
had evidently gone ashore ; nor were the good looking young ladies to be 
found, much to the disappointment of the gentlemen who had looked forward 
to the pleasure of their society. 

The following morning found us on the broad ocean, with the ship 
gently heaving to the long swell that lifted her metal sides. Apparently no 
one as yet had succumbed to the demands of Neptune, for the breakfast 
table was well attended, and in this respect we were surprised during the 
entire voyage, thanks to the comparative smoothness of the sea, although it 
was at a season when some bad w^eather was expected. 

By this it must not be understood that the Pacific was continuously 
smooth, for there came a day when a strong southwest wind raised a heavy 
swell, causing empty chairs at the tables and the non-appearance of a few of 
both sexes on the promenade ; but a blow on the Pacific generally reaches 



l6 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

its height in twenty-four hours, when a change of wind occurs, flattening 
down the sea. 

Then the sufferers from inal de mer make their appearance, and it is 
interesting, if not impressive, to hear the variety of reasons assigned for 
their recent absence. The ladies do not, as a rule, dodge the truth ; but 
there seems to be on the part of the sterner sex an inherent propensity 
to deceive, by assigning "a slight headache," "more comfortable in bed," "a 
little biUious," and similar evasions, which the uncertain dulness of eye and 
" washed out " color of countenance fail to endorse. 

During the night of Tuesday, the sixth day out, we passed the one 
hundred and eightieth degree of longitude, just half way around the world 
from Greenwich. When we breakfasted next morning, we found the captain 
had thrown Wednesday overboard, for the bill of fare said it was Thursday, 
and Thursday it remained. 

Games of cricket, shovelboard, quoits, athletic sports, cards, dominoes, 
pools on the ship's run, and " four o'clock teas " help fill up each day. Jack's 
evening performances upon the forecastle deck, during the prevalence of 
good weather, attract larger and more enthusiastic audiences than the skilled 
pianist or solo vocaHst of the parlor. The old-time sea songs, or melodies 
descriptive of his sweethearts and shore adventures, rendered to the accom- 
panying strains of the fiddle and concertina, are without artistic intention, 
but with the jingle and rhythm that excite the enthusiasm of the passenger 
audience looking down upon the performance from the promenade deck rail; 
and when Jack quaintly remarks that "all blessings come from above," a 
shower of silver substantiates his statement, and ensures a future evening's 
amusement. At the evening parlor and smoking-room concerts, readings, 
and card parties, acquaintances are made and friendships formed that often- 
times last until life's voyage is over. 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



YOKOHAMA. 




EARLY in the morning of the twelfth day Cape Su-zaki {Soo-zah-key), at 
the southeastern entrance to the Gulf of Tokio {Toh-kyoJi)., is sighted 
directly ahead. Rounding this point, we steam for forty miles with 
land on either side. Here a quaint little fishing village nestles at the 
base of a hill, or a shrine or temple comes 
in view, while away off on the left Fuji- 
yama, the sacred mountain, with its silver 
top, is plainly seen, lifting its head above 
all other mountains. Passing through 
fleets of fishing boats (sampans) and 
Japanese junks, at half-past eight we 
round the lightship in Yokohama ( Yo-ko- 
hah-maJi) Bay, and at nine o'clock are 
fast to the Company's buoy, half a mile 
from the shore. 

For the first time the stranger realizes that he is in a different world from 
his own. Hundreds of boatmen, dressed in their long gowns if it be winter, 
but only in a breach-clout if it be summer, shout and yell at each other 
as they struggle to bring their sampans into favor- 
able positions at the ship's side. Steam-launches 
from the several hotels are soon alongside, and 
cw fB their runners clamber up the side ladders to secure 
patrons for their respective hostelries. 

Putting our luggage and keys in charge of the runner of our hotel, we 
are soon headed for the Custom House landing, where we find the examina- 
tion of our effects to be a mere formality. 





i8 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 




On the town side of the entrance we see, instead of the noisy hackmen 
of America, groups of coohes, or jinrikisha men, standing near their vehicles, 
anxious for the opportunity to earn five or ten cents by transporting us to 

our hotel. 

The feeling when stepping into one 
of these enlarged baby carriages for the 
first time is a pecuhar one ; primarily, 
the idea that you are a mark for the eyes 
of those whom you may meet, coupled 
with a fear of falling backward or of the 

^ coolies stumbhng and sending you head 

^e/ynrZ/c/sJia.' foremost to the ground. The first ex- 

perience removes all bashfulness ; and while jinrikishas do sometimes go 
backward, and coolies fall, the occasions are very rare. The charge for a 
short distance is nominally 
five sen per person, but you 
soon learn that ten sen is 
expected from the stranger, 
and that amount is usually 
given. 

The Grand Hotel and Club 
Hotel are on the Bund, facing 
the Bay, while the Oriental 
is nearly back of the Grand 

Hotel, all of them being within five minutes' walk of the landing wharf. The 

Grand Hotel is the largest 
and most fashionable estab- 
lishment, with rates from 
$4.00 per day upward. The 
Club Hotel is perhaps a more 
quiet home, with equally good 
rooms, at the rate of $3.00 to 
$3.50 per day. The rates at 
^ the Oriental are about the 
same as at the Club Hotel. 
It receives considerable pat- 
ronage from French and Ger- 
At either of the three every 





man travellers, and is well spoken of. 
reasonable comfort is obtained. 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



19 




Having settled our location, the next thing is to obtain Japanese money. 

All of the money institutions are near by, so we visit the Hong-Kong and 

Shanghai Bank. Handing a London check to the European cashier, together 

with a document of identification, we await the result. He figures the value 

of our pounds in Mexican silver, charges 

the current rate of exchange, and makes a 

slip showing the total. This is passed to 

a Chinese " Shroff," who verifies the cal- 
culation upon a soraban (undoubtedly the 

original adding machine), sending back 

and forth in the most bewildering way 

the buttons or balls with his long aristo- 
cratic looking fingers until a conclusion is 

reached. He initials the slip, another 

Chinaman takes it and, counting out the 

money, hands to us (this was in January, 

1892) $6.69 in paper for each pound, which 

cost $4.86>i at home. 

Upon inquiry we learn that Chinamen handle all funds in these banks, 

not, as has been erroneously stated, because the European or Japanese 
cannot be trusted, but because at the home China office 
of the banks in Hong-Kong head shroffs, able to furnish 
heavy bonds, are engaged, these shroffs in turn hiring 
their assistants, who are bonded to the one employing 
them. 

While upon this subject, it is well to take up the 
question of Japanese money. The circulating currency 
is on the decimal system, and consists of the yen (or 
dollar), the sen (or cent), and the rin (or tenth of a cent). 
Yen are issued in paper of the denominations of ones, 
fives, and tens. The fractional parts of the yen are in 
paper or silver, being the silver fifty sen and paper fifty 
sen; and in like manner the silver and paper twenty 
sen, silver ten sen and silver five sen. Then there are 
the nickel five sen pieces, the one and two sen copper 
coins, and the peculiar looking copper rin pieces with 

square holes in the centre. 

The value of the Japanese yen, in comparison with American or Canadian 

money, is based on the fluctuating universal value of the Mexican silver 




Bank Shroff. 



20 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



dollar. If the latter is selling for seventy-five cents, then we receive for our 
dollar $1.33 in Japanese money; and as all items of expense or cost of 
purchases are payable in that, we need not say that hereafter Japanese 
money only is referred to in this work. 

Yokohama has a population of one hundred and twenty-four thousand, 
of which only fifteen hundred are foreigners. The hotels and foreign busi- 
ness houses are all located within "The Settlement," the territory set apart 
in which foreigners may locate and transact business. All numbers within 
the Settlement run consecutively instead of by streets, No. i being the first 
house or lot on the Bund, near the landing wharf, and so on in consecutive 
order until the highest numbered lot (277) within the Settlement is reached. 
In like manner "The Bluffs," where foreign residents reside, is numbered by 
lots ; but it does not follow that 
number 33 is anywhere near 
number 34, for we find 
number 102 next _?^^ 

door to 250. 

Here there are 
beautiful homes, 
many of them hav- 
ing gardens containing 
the rarest flowers ; and 
should the visitor not be 
favored with introductions to 
residents of that section, it will be 
found worth while to obtain permission to visit some of the gardens. 

Under existing treaties Japan has five treaty ports, viz., Yokohama, Kobe 
{Ko-bay\ Hokodate {Hah-ko-dah-tay\ Niigata {Nee-ee-gah-tah\ and Nagasaki 
{Nah-gah-sah-kee\ in either of which foreigners may reside, and within a 
radius of about twenty-five miles of these ports they may make temporary 
visits without a Japanese passport. For example : Tokio being but eighteen 
miles from Yokohama, and Osaka {Oh-sah-kah) but eighteen miles from 
Kobe, may both be visited (temporarily) without passport from Yokohama 
or Kobe respectively. But to travel in Japan, an application for passport, 
stating explicitly the places desired to visit, should be made through one's 
diplomatic representative at the treaty port. As this application must go 
to Tokio, and it usually requires two or three days to obtain the passport, 
the application should be made as soon as possible after landing. 

As a matter of convenience, the Government has arranged a series of 




JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



21 



" fixed routes," several of which may be combined in one application ; and 
if the route be not deemed unreasonable, the authorities at Tokio will 
usually issue the passport, limited to three months' use — not, however, as a 
matter of right, but simply as a courtesy. 












^ It g 



4? 










Japanese Passport (reduced from 8 by io inches). 



22 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

Consuls at the treaty ports may, by applying to the local " Kencho," 
obtain passports, good for thirty days, to neighboring places; for instance, 
at Yokohama to Enoshima {Ay-nosh-e-mah\ Kamakura {Kah-mak-koo-rah\ 
Miyanoshlta {Me-an-osh-e-tah\ Atami {Ah-tam-e\ etc., and these are obtain- 
able within an hour or so. 

Ascertaining these facts, we secured, through the Consul-General of the 
United States at Yokohama, the thirty-day permit to visit the near by places 
above named, deferring our application for the more extended passport until 
such time as we would reach Tokio and present at our legation the official 
and personal introductions we had brought. 

It is well to understand the importance of the passport, for the railway 
ticket agent will not sell the foreigner a ticket to an interior point, nor will 
the hotel or inn keeper receive him as a guest, until the passport is produced; 
and it is not an infrequent occurrence to have a police officer, casually meet- 
ing a foreigner, demand his "menjo" {inen-joh) or passport; and, under the 
conditions of its issue, it must be shown. 

The foreigner is required by the first regulation of the passport to obey 
all local laws, which prohibit the following : — 

1. TraveUing at night (in carriage or jinrikisha) without a light. 

2. Attending a fire on horseback. 

3. Disregarding notices of " No thoroughfare." 

4. Rapid driving on narrow roads. 

5. Neglecting to pay ferry and bridge tolls. 

6. Injuring notice boards, house signs, and mile posts. 

7. Scribbling on temples, shrines, or walls. 

8. Injuring crops, shrubs, trees, or plants on roads or in gardens. 

9. Trespassing on fields, enclosures, or game preserves. 
10. Lighting fires in woods or on hills or moors. 

Railway fares in Japan are on the general basis of three sen per mile for 
first class, two sen second class, and one sen third class. The first-class 
coaches are from eighteen to twenty-four feet long, divided into three or four 
compartments, with seats upholstered in leather. These coaches, as a rule, 
contain toilet conveniences; and during the winter season galvanized iron 
foot-warmers, filled with hot water, are placed under the rugs in each com- 
partment, freshly filled cylinders being substituted from time to time. The 
second-class cars are longer than the first, with doors entering from the 
sides, but are not as well upholstered or as comfortable as the first class. 
Ordinary passenger trains of, say, six cars, with mail and " luggage " van, 
would have one first-class, two second-class, and three third-class coaches. 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 23 

The second and third-class cars are invariably filled, while the first-class 
coach may be partially filled or entirely empty. 

The American brass baggage check system is in general use upon the 
railways ; and while there is an understanding that an excess weight of 
baggage, that is, exceeding one hundred and fifty pounds, shall be paid 
for, we found a general disposition to check the foreigner's trunks without 
demanding additional payment. Before leaving this subject, it is a pleasure 
to say that all classes of railway employees — ticket agents, baggage men, 
porters, and train men — seem to recognize in Japan that they are servants 
of the public, and are invariably polite and affable, in marked contrast 
to a species of "bumtiousness " too often seen among similar employees in 
America. 

The postal service of Japan, based on the American system, is perhaps 
as nearly perfect as possible. In cities, towns, villages, and along roadsides 
of the interior, the black iron " post " box, mounted on a wooden pillar, is 
seen at frequent intervals, and the collection and delivery of mail matter 
seems to be done with care and regularity. Letters and newspapers directed 
to us at various points of our journey were constantly being forwarded from 
place to place until they overtook us, and we have yet to learn that any item 
ultimately failed to reach us. Interior postage on letters is two sen per half 
ounce, while letter postage to any country in the Universal Postal Union, of 
which Japan is a member, is five sen, and postal cards one sen. 

The telegraph ofiice is found in the most remote districts, and messages 
of ten Japanese characters, together with the address and signature, are 
sent to any part of Japan for fifteen sen. Telegrams in English, or any 
foreign language, cost five sen per word ; and after we had wasted time and 
patience in getting messages we desired to send translated into Japanese, to 
get advantage of the lower rate, we found we had been also wasting money, 
for in most cases it required three or four Japanese syllabic characters to 
convey the meaning of one Enghsh word. 

The police system of Japan commends itself to the visiting foreigner, 
because the men composing the force are evidently of a better class than 
those who usually take such service. Neatly uniformed, they arc seen 
wherever one may go, and in answer to request for information the visitor 
may always be sure of a respectful reply. 

In interior places the post office, telegraph office, and police station are 
usually together in one building, which may be recognized by the Imperial 
emblem — a red ball on a white ground — flying from the roof or at the end 
of a bamboo pole. 



24 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



Licensed guides, members of an association called " Kaiyusha " {Ki-ooh- 
sha), may be secured at the Grand or Club Hotels, the charge for their 
services being one yen per day in addition to their travelling expenses, and 
an allowance of another yen per day for lodging and food. All these guides 
are said to be men of good character, and are extremely polite and attentive 
to those who employ them. 

When, however, the visitor has sufficient confidence in his own judgment 
to decide where he wants to go and what he wants to see (particularly if he 
proposes seeing something of the country off from the 
beaten tracks), he will do well to engage a young man 
as valet or servant who, in addition to his ability to 
speak more or less of English, knows how to cook 
such plain articles of food as the foreign taste and 
stomach demand. Such a man packs, unpacks, and 
cares for the baggage, purchases railway tickets, 
secures places in cars, bargains for jinrikishas and 
coohes, makes arrangements at interior inns, pays the 
bills, and, when necessary, sees that chickens, eggs, 
coffee, tea, milk, beer, etc., are ready for use. Such 
a one we secured by simply mentioning our desires 
to our room boy at the hotel. The wages asked were 
fifty yen per month (he lodging and feeding himself) 
and his travelHng expenses, which were identical with 
our own, excepting that when travelling by rail or 
steamship he used second-class accommodations. From first to last he 
proved himself worthy of the letters of recommendation he presented, and 
a more thoroughly honest fellow than Shimid could not be found anywhere. 

A number of days can be profitably spent in Yokohama in visiting places 
of interest, such as Kanagawa {Kah-naw-gah-wah), three miles by jinrikisha 
(fare forty sen), and a climb up the hill back of that town, from whence a 
very fine view of Yokohama and the bay is had. 

T ormokz. {Toe-me-o-kah), about seven miles down the bay by jinrikisha 
with two coohes (fare 1.20), is chiefly interesting on account of the pictur- 
esqueness of a portion of the road. It may also be reached by boat, but the 
road is preferable. 

Kanazawa ^Kah-nah-zah-wah), some four or five miles farther than 
Tomioka, possesses but little of interest beyond a few tombs and a poor 
temple, unless it be in April or May when the peonies and camelHas are 
at their best. 




Shimid. 



JAPAN AS WE SA W I7\ 



25 



A very interesting ride, occupying about two and one-half or three hours, 
is that over the Bluffs, past the race course, down the hill along Mississippi 
Bay, and returning to Yokohama through the rice fields, and into the city 
over a portion of the Bluffs, two coolies being necessary (fare 1.40). 

Temples there are in and around Yokohama ; but an inspection of the 
best, say the temple of Fudomyoo {Foo-doh-inyoh-ok), conveniently included 
in the last jinrikisha ride, will convince the visitor that he can save time and 
fatigue by waiting for temples until Nikko is reached. 







In the Japanese section of Yokohama, the streets Honcho-dori {Hon- 
choh-doh-i^ee)^ Benten-dori {Ben-ten-doh-ree\ with others intersecting or 
running parallel, are of interest on account of the quaint native shops 
where are sold curios, porcelains, lacquers, silks, ivory carvings, and in 
fact every variety of manufactures designed to appease the usually abnormal 
purchasing appetite of the new-comer. Many beautiful and valuable things 
may be found here (particularly in lacquers, silks, and crapes), if one is 
competent to judge of what he is buying; but it is well to remember that 
there are many other cities in Japan, and observation and experience result 
in the conclusion that a great deal of trash is sold at high prices to the new- 
comer which, a month hence, he would not carry away. 

The ordinary Japanese shop is a low two-story, or rather story and a 
half, building, with long overhanging eaves, mounted on wooden posts and 
raised eighteen to twenty-four inches above the ground. 



JAPAN REFERENCE 
' LIBRARY 

NEW YORK 



26 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



The ground floor consists of the little front shop, with the family living 
room behind, separated from the shop by a light framework partition, the 
lower half of which is thin boards set tight together, and sometimes finished 
in panels, while the upper half is made like window-sashes, with pane spaces 
about six inches wide by ten long. These spaces are covered with strong 
white rice-paper instead of glass, sufficiently opaque to prevent seeing 
through, and yet so^ thin as to admit light. The kitchen fire is usually in a 
small attached extension. 




"IK 






^ ! 



-*^^» 



:^ 



^(/J20 



if 

Shop 



If there is a street "front" to the shop, it is formed of sliding frames, 
with paper " windows " covering the upper portion, hke the interior parti- 
tion ; but these are only used in cold weather. At all other times the shop, 
without windows or doors, is open to the street, so that pedestrians may 
stand upon the thoroughfare and see its contents. The attendants sit 
upon the floor, or rather upon the straw mats which cover the floor, and do 
not rise until they are satisfied that there is a chance for business. Then 
the expected customer is asked to step up on the shop floor, while a woman 
or boy appears from the living-room with the tea outfit. While sipping the 
preparation the bargaining can be done at leisure. 

In many of these shops the price of each article is "fixed," and while the 
native salesman will not accept a less figure in detail, the grouping together 
of a number of articles may result in a discount, or the " throwing in " of 
some inexpensive article as a " present." 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



In the large cities, however, native shops are seen with more imposing 
fronts, and with up-stairs show-rooms in which are kept the more costly 
goods. If it be a curio shop the new-comer is amazed at the countless 
number of wooden boxes, tied with tape, which are brought forth, the 
contents being wrapped in silk or soft cloths. The degree of care observed 
in unwrapping an article may safely be regarded as an indication of its 
expense, followed by the assurance that it is "ichi-ban" (number one, or 
first class). 

If an article is asked for that the salesman has, he says " Arimasu " 
(^Ak-ree-7nah-ss) (I have), and produces it; but should he happen not to 
have it, he puts his hands on his knees, bows his head, looks dejected, and 
says " Arimasen " (^A h-ree-mah-sen) 



\> 




(I have not), at the same time con- 
firming his regret by drawing in the 
breath between his teeth and emit- 
ting a hissing sound. 

Japanese lacquer -ware of the 
best quality stands unrivalled for 
color, durability, and finish ; but to 
the unappreciative or inexperienced, 
a fine lacquered tray, plaque, box, 
panel, or cup is simply the article 
painted red, black, or green, or 
gilded with gold, and highly varnished and polished. To such, admiration 
for fine lacquered work as one of the highest types of skilful and artistic 
manipulation is but evidence of Japanese enthusiasm ; but any person of 
intelligence gaining admission to a workshop where the fine work is exe- 
cuted, seeing something of the fourteen or fifteen distinct operations through 
which it goes, and who will reahze that age, climate, or even submersion 
in water does not change its color, and finally will learn that in no other 
country on the face of the earth can its counterpart be produced, then an 
appreciation of its artistic worth must be created, which will grow rapidly as 
fine specimens are encountered. 

Appreciation of the patronage of English-speaking travellers is shown 
in the queer attempts of Japanese shopkeepers to call attention to their 
business by means of signs and cards, the subject matter being doubtless 
culled from English-Japanese phrase books. A jeweller in Yokohama thus 
announces his.facihties : "Our shop is the best and obliging worker that 
have everybody known. . . . Work own name or monograms or any design 



28 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

according to orders. We can works how much difficult Job with lowest Price 
insure. Please try, once try." 

An artistic sign over a shop door reads : " Embroidery stuffs and worke 
at hanger or screen for purpose to any design, and make Wall Paper." 

A curio dealer's card reads : " Maker of curiosity shop." 

To be more closely in touch with English-speaking patrons, business 
names are often substituted for their own ; therefore we find that " George 
Washington " keeps a lacquer-ware shop, while " Whisky Boy " is a jeweller, 
and " Rising Sun " is a " tala " (tailor). 

In the "Settlement," or foreign section, near the hotels, are a number of 
European shops, where the first lessons may be taken as to quality, for as a 
rule one will find in these the best goods, and a willingness to have you 
inspect their stocks, even if no purchases are made. 

Yokohama is unquestionably the best place to purchase the artistic 
colored photographs of scenery and characters, and at Farsari's, near the 
Grand Hotel, Kembei, in Honcho-dori, or Tamamura's, in Benten-dori, the 
most extensive stocks are kept. 

The scientifically inclined will enjoy a visit to the Imperial Laboratory on 
Honcho-dori, where all drugs, medicines, etc., imported into the country are 
first submitted for analysis before being exposed for sale. 

The frequency of earthquake shocks is a feature of Japan to which the 
traveller soon becomes accustomed, if not resigned. Our initiation occurred 
on the evening of the second day in Yokohama. A trembling of the hotel 
building, a sensation of swaying of the room in which we were seated, 
undoubtedly magnified by our inexperience, together with rapid oscillation 
of the long gas pendant above our heads, gave us a fair idea of what the 
Japati Mail the following morning termed "a severe shock." It is safe to 
say that greater or lesser shocks during each subsequent week's stay in the 
country did not lessen our appreciation of what had occurred in the past, 
and was liable to be repeated in the future. 

A night jinrikisha ride through some of the Japanese business streets, 
such as Minato-cho {Me-nah-toe-cho) in which the Minatozo, or first theatre, 
is located, the Yoshida-machi {Yo-she-dah-7nah-chee), Hagoromo-cho {Hah- 
goh-roh-moh-cho), Isezaki-cho {Ee-say-zah-kee), and Nigi-oi-cho {Nee-gee-oh-ee\ 
presents a picture of native life and character never to be forgotten. The 
myriads of illuminated paper lanterns hanging from the shop fronts, the ban- 
ners with their peculiar inscriptions and paintings floating from the bamboo 
poles attached to the roofs, the discordant twang-twang of the samisen 
{sah-mee-sen) or Japanese banjo issuing from the open front theatres and 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



29 



shops, and the hucksters' stands, so numerous as to be almost worthy of 
being called bazaars, together with the mass of orientally arrayed human 




>h1 — ^"'si 



beings swarming through the streets, producing with their wooden-soled 
ashida {ah-shee-dah), or miniature stilt, Komageta {Koh-mah-gay-taK), a 
clatter that cannot be compared to anything else in the world. 



30 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 




ENOSHIMA, KAMAKURA, AND YOKOSUKA. 

ENOSHIMA, Kamakura, and Yokosuka {Yoh-koh-ss-kah) may easily be 
visited in two days, and should under no circumstances be omitted. 
Leaving Yokohama from the Imperial Government Railway station 
(fifteen minutes by jinrikisha from the hotel) by train at 6,50 a.m., 
Fujisawa {Foo-je-sah-waK)^ twenty-two miles (fare sixty-six sen), is reached 
at 7.35, where jinrikishas will be found near the station. Thence by a very 
interesting and for the most part a shaded road, several villages are tra- 
versed, until at about three miles distance the hamlet of Katase {Kah-tah-say) 
is reached. Here we alight and walk across a half mile sand beach, — said 
to have risen from the sea by the action of an earthquake in 1216, — cross 

an arm of the sea on a bridge, 
the frame of which is made of 
bamboo, and enter the one street 
of the village of Enoshima. 

Curios, seashells, beads, rope- 
' £/w.',/jmu> '..' -p i ^' . "" sponges, corals, sweetmeats, etc., 

are exposed for sale in the shops, 
but passing these and the two tea-houses of the town, we ascend the hill of 
Enoshima by the stone steps running to the left. Two temples on the 
summit are interesting from the outside, but the particular attractions are 
the large cave on the far side of the island, said to be three hundred and 
seventy feet deep, and the magnificent ocean view had from the little 
tea-house on the extreme overhanging point. Thence back, winding down 
the hill by the path and steps ending opposite where the ascent was 
begun. 

Just before reaching this point, however, a native schoolhouse on the left 
of the path attracts our attention. Stepping carefully over the dozens of little 
wooden ashida the scholars have left outside the door, we enter the school- 
room, and receive a pleasant salutation from the master. Rapping on his 
desk, he speaks a few words to the children, who rise from their seats, 
and bowing their heads say, in unison, " Ohayo " {Oh-hah-yoh) (Good 
morning). 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



31 



Retracing our way through the village and across the bridge and sand 
beach, we resume the jinrikishas, pass through Katase and Hase {Hah-say), 
following the road running along the sea nearly all the way (five miles) 
down to Kamakura. 

A short distance along the principal street, a sharp turn to the left up a 
narrow lane, and we alight at the foot of a series of stone steps, alongside 
which, as we ascend, are seen several carved figures representing deities, 
big and little. 

From the front of the temple of Kwannon half way up the hill a white 
clad priest emerges, who leads 
the way to a wooden building in 
the rear. Unlocking the door, 
he guides us into a dark barn- 
like apartment where, by the aid 
of the candles which he lights 
and slowly draws upward, we 
see the golden figure of Kwan- 
non, the Goddess of Mercy. It 
is thirty feet high, and the priest 
informs us is " kin " (gold). 
This, however, is only partially 
true, for it is a wood carving 
gilded with gold. 




^hos-/}//na- 



Another five minutes' ride 
brings us to the entrance of an 
avenue of trees, through which 

we see the colossal bronze figure of the Dai-Butsu {Di-boo-tss)^ said to have 
been completed in 1252. Chamberlain, speaking of this wonderful figure, 
says, "No other gives such an impression of majesty, or so truly symbolizes 
the central idea of Buddhism, the intellectual calm which comes of perfected 
knowledge and the subjugation of all passion." Its height is forty-nine feet 
seven inches, circumference ninety-seven feet, length of face eight feet five 
inches, width of mouth three feet two inches, and there are said to be eight 
hundred and thirty curls upon the head, each of which is nine inches long. 
An interior ascent may be made into the head, and before leaving the 
visitor will have an opportunity of purchasing from the priest a photograph 
of the Dai-Butsu, and subscribing toward the fund for the preservation of 
this work of art. 



32 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



The Temple of Hachiman, about a mile from the Dai-Butsu, is chiefly 
interesting on account of its position on a high hill, and the fine avenue of 
trees forming its approach from the seashore ; the three stone torii {toh-ree) 
leading to the temple, and the immense tree (twenty feet in circumference) 
which we are told is twelve hundred years old. 

Satisfied with the day's sight-seeing we ride down to the Kaihin-in 
{Ki-yin-in) Hotel, prettily situated in a grove of pine trees on the seashore, 
where dinner is served and where we stay that night. The hotel is semi- 
foreign; that is, it has rooms comfortably furnished in European style, with 
stoves in the rooms for winter use, as well as 
Japanese rooms in which the only "furniture" is 
the matting on the floor and a Kakemono {Kah- 
kay-moh-noh) or scroll picture on the wall. 

The prirjcipals and servants are here, as 
everywhere in Japan, extremely polite, and the 
food is palatably cooked and well served. Good 
coffee, however, the Japanese cannot comprehend, 
for they are tea-drinkers. Therefore we found it 
advisable to provide ourselves with the small cans 
of " ready prepared coffee," a spoonful of which 
to a cup of boiling water gives the coffee lover 
his favorite beverage. 

Having dismissed and paid our jinrikisha 
coolies on arrival at the hotel (fifty-five sen each, from Fujisawa to Kama- 
kura), on the following morning we take jinrikishas to the railway station of 
Kamakura (one mile, ten sen), and at 9.51 board the train for a thirty 
minutes' run to Yokosuka. Here the Imperial Government has a dock-yard 
for the repairs of vessels, entrance to which is obtained by the presentation 
of cards. 

The grave of Will Adams, a native of Great Britain, who, while serving 
as pilot on a Dutch vessel, was taken prisoner by the Japanese in 1600, is 
the chief object of interest in Yokosuka, and is reached after a good thirty 
minutes' walk up a hill from the station. History tells us that Adams left a 
wife and several children in England, to whom, history also says, he made 
futile efforts to return. Whether the Japanese wife he took to assuage his 
grief caused him to relinquish his efforts we are not informed, but it would 
seem so from the fact that he lived with her until his death in 1620. 

A meal in foreign style is served at the Kaiyo-ken {Ki-yoh-ken) restaurant 
while the visitor awaits the departure of the steamer which is to take him 




JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 33 



from the beautiful land-locked bay on which Yokosuka is situated back to 
Yokohama, about twenty-five miles ; or, if preferred, the railway train may 
be used to Yokohama (changing cars at Ofuna Junction), occupying about an 
hour and three-quarters for the run. 

The following morning we take an early walk to the Yokohama market 
to see a fine exhibit of the endless variety of fishes found in the surrounding 
waters. Game in abundance and vegetables (some of abnormal growth) are 
sold here at prices which make the housekeeper from America stare with 
envy. 

A jinrikisha ride of two miles to the cremation ground and cemetery on 
Negishi {^lVay-gee-shee)\\\\\ is well worth the time consumed. Here a y^Vj-/- 
class cremation is performed for seven yen, which means that for the first- 
class rate the establishment is decorated with lanterns, flags, etc. Visitors 
are shown every interesting feature by the attendants, who anticipate receiv- 
ing a fee of about twenty sen. Two men to a jinrikisha are necessary for the 
ride, and their fare is fifty sen each. 

The Theatre Minatoza {Meena-tozah) may be looked into any time 
between ten in the morning and nine in the evening, at a cost of fifty sen, a 
performance being in progress continuously. While the acting will not 
particularly interest the visitor, the strange manner of presenting the drama, 
the peculiar customs adopted by the audience, and the revolving stage, make 
it desirable to visit at least once. 



34 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



DISTRICT OF HAKONE. 



YOKOHAMA to Miyanoshita is an exceedingly pleasant trip, and is 
made inside of five hours. By taking the train at eight o'clock in the 
morning, Kodzu (thirty-one miles, fare ninety-three sen) is reached 
at about half-past ten. From Kodzu station, if the atmosphere be 
clear, the upper half of Fuji is distinctly seen. 

The tram car starting from Kodzu first traverses the length of the 
town ; then through a fine avenue of pines shortly enters the main street 
of Odawara {0-dah-wah-rah\ three miles in length ; thence through the 
Hayakawa {Hah-yah-kah-wah) valley follows the course of the river of the 

same name to Yumoto (eight miles, 
fare fifty sen). Beer, cakes, etc., 
may be obtained at several tea- 
■' houses in Yumoto ; for although 
there is quite an extensive inn at 
the farther end of the bridge, the 
proprietor does not care for for- 
eign custom. 

At Yumoto, jinrikishas are 
taken for Miyanoshita (two men 
necessary ; fare in good weather 
twenty - five sen, double fare if 
stormy). 
Crossing the bridge and turning to the right, the road is a continuous 
ascent for nearly five miles. 

From the picturesque village of Tonasawa iToh-nah-zah-wah)^ less tlian 
half a mile from Yumoto, is seen a white Russian chapel across the gorge 
on the side of the opposite hill. From here on the road presents a variety 
of mountain and valley scenery seldom surpassed. Winding along the side 
of the mountain, twisting hke a snake around corners, every turn brings into 
view a different picture. The roar of the river at the bottom of the gorge 
on the right is never absent, while on the left numerous waterfalls attract 
the eye. 




yOyv^ oro 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



35 



Half way up from Yumoto a few buildings, forming the hamlet of Ohiradai 
{O'here-ah-die), are passed on the right of the road ; but so entrancing are 
the views that it is almost with a feeling of regret that one sees Miyanoshita, 
nestled on a hillside between the mountain ranges, coming within sight, 
fourteen hundred feet above sea level and in the district of Hakone {Hah- 
koh-nay). 

This is one of the favorite summer resorts for foreign residents of Japan 
and for the aristocratic Japanese ; therefore the two hotels, the " Fujiya " 
{Foo-gee-yah) and " Naraya " {Nah-rah-yah), situated quite near each other, 
have separate buildings for 
their foreign and Japanese 
patrons. Both hotels are 
well kept. The "Fujiya" 
(charging three to three 
and one-half yen per day), 
however, receives the larg- 
est foreign patronage by 
reason of its superior fur- 
nishings, cuisine, and ser- ' 
vice, the latter being per- 
formed, even to carrying 
baggage, building fires, and 
blacking boots, by a number 
of daintily robed and very 
pretty Japanese girls. 

Visitors upon entering their rooms find a kimono {key-mono), or bath 
wrap, lying folded at the foot of the bed, so that they may disrobe in the 
room, and adorned in kimono and sandals follow the servant to the baths on 
the first floor of the hotel. As this was our first experience in the hot bath, 
the temperature of one hundred degrees was at first regarded as unbearable, 
aside from the probability of an after cold ; but by lowering the heat ten 
degrees until accustomed to that, and gradually allowing it to increase, we 
found no inconvenience, and learned that while there is danger of taking 
cold after a warm bath, none need be apprehended when the water is hot. 

Mosaic wood-work, and bamboo made into toys or articles for use, are 
the chief products of this region, and are found in nearly every shop in the 
villages. A half mile walk to Kiga {Key-gaK), with its tea-house, fish-pond, 
and quaint garden; a thirty minutes' climb to the lookout on top of the hill 
to the right of the Fujiya, from whence a magnificent view is had ; a quarter 




36 



'.■iFJ.y 



rri: sj ir it. 



mile w.i'.k :o Do^.ish 
the ho:eI. well :e-:;.\- 



Im.i [^D:':-^.:':-sr.i 
'.\\t sl;^v: exer::: 



/;.:/■>. down in the r.ivine in view of 




to rne ^osra Drorner: 



i^o 1 / -^::-^':-koo)^ ele\-ation thim-five 
hunolre.. :e :, 1. c ..s the *' big hell," or place 

0- V;i :,: " u~ s ; leis -nt walk of about five 
:: :ile^ : r if c:?i:::l ::c.l for ten miles' pedes- 
:ri..:.;s:r.. .i : : : n chair carried on the 
shoulders of four ooolies may be utilized. 

A favorite day's excursion is to Hakone. six 
miles -r. ch.iirs. ?r .ir e2:h. This mode of con- 
vey. :::e l.cks fr :::::: f he iinrikisha, yet 
is not disagieeable so h :^ -s he :oolies w^lk; 
but when they strike a ■ h ,.-:r::. :1 :e passenger 
having due re s e : f - ? oinal column prefers 
to get down if a : ^ The path is an ascent, 
but quite shah eh : h;:e first mile and a half, to 
Ashinovu {A':-;':- :-:.'':-;. i^"^. here there is a 
se: i f:r c\: 1: : , h ? h^ Tirhs. From here 
:::• ■- f . ?-?si::i h r s::r.r r ; ::-;-;:> dedicated 
and .1 h:he :.ir:her tlie nnige ci J::: \^y:--C'}i) carved 




TneJfomfaiPi (^ajr 



in relief on the rock forming the mountain side, but few trees are seen. 
Presently the \Tllage of Moto-Hakone and Hakone Lake, at the foot of the 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



37 




hills, come within view; while on the farther side of the lake is one of the 

Mikado's palaces in the midst of well laid out grounds. 

The lunch we brought with us is eaten at a clean little inn called Tsuta-ya 

{Tsoo-tah-yah), situated on the 

edge of the lake, from which, 

looking across the water and 

beyond its surrounding hills, we 

have a fine view of snow-capped 

Fuji. The village of Hakone is 

about a mile farther down the ■ 

road, but it is hardly worth visit- 
ing. 

Pedestrians vary the return 

trip to Miyanoshita by taking a 

boat on the lake to the village of 

Shin-yu {Shin-yoo), and thence 

over the hills by Ojigoku, down to the hotel. 

Miyanoshita, with its excellent hotels, numberless walks, mountain 

climbs, beautiful scenery, and delightful atmosphere, may well consume a 

week's time, but as we have engaged accommodations at Atami (twenty-nine 

miles by jinrikisha, two men, 
two yen) we leave the Fujiya 
' with regret, accompanied by the 
"sayonaras " {sah-yoh-7iah-rahs\ 
y" good-byes," of the pretty little 
hotel girls assembled on the 
stone steps at the entrance. 
.^^^'-jjH^^j^B^^^pp^^H^MMJiipP'c The return ride down the 

mountain road is if possible 
more charming than its ascent, 
and all too quickly ended. 

Thence through Yumoto to 
Odawara (five miles) upon the 
highway following the base of 

the line of hills on our left, with the river and tram-car track over which we 

had come on our right. The road, in stretches, was quite rough for want 

of care, showing how quickly the modern modes of transit lead the natives 

to abandon the jinrikisha, and at the same time to lose interest in their 

otherwise excellent roads. 




38 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



When half way through the town of Odawara we halted at a little inn at 
the corner of the street leading to the Atami road while the coolies, who had 
brought us from Miyanoshita, bargained with Odawara coolies to relieve 
them of the contract made with us for the balance of the journey. The 
result was not to our advantage, for the men who here took up the task 
were inferior in intelligence, physique, and personal appearance to those they 
relieved. 

The wind was blowing a full gale, and it seemed when we crossed the 
bridge over the Hayakawa as though the jinrikishas must certainly be 
overturned ; but in a few minutes — as we ascended the side of a cliff, amid 
the deafening roar of the surging sea rolling in against the rocks beneath 
us, throwing its spray to a height of fifty or sixty feet, and over and across 
the road upon which we travelled — we were content to suffer the discomfort 
of the gale that we might enjoy so grand a sight. 

We followed the seashore virtually all the way for twenty miles over a 
very good and wonderfully picturesque road, passing through the villages of 
Hayakawa, Nebukawa {Nay-boo-kah-wah), Enoura {Ay-noh-oo-rah), where 
we lunch, Yoshihama ( K?^-^'^^^-^*?^-;;/^^), and Izusan {Ee-dzoo-san), down the 
hill, amid the whoops of the coolies, to the Higuchi {H e-goo-chee) Hotel in 
Atami. 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



39 



ATAMI IN IDZU. 



THE town is prettily situated upon the bay shore, with a high range of 
hills in the rear protecting it from the cold winds of winter ; and in 
the latter regard it is the most comfortable winter resort in Japan. 
A geyser which is in operation every four hours, sending its steam 
to a height of twenty feet, is 
one of the principal attrac- 
tions. A sanitarium, or in- 
halation house, is within the 
geyser yard enclosure, and ' 
here patients resort and spend 
hours subjecting their per- 
sons to the fumes of the salt 
and soda impregnated water. - -_-—>- 

Some thirty-five inns (the 
Higuchi, however, being the only one *^7^v ^'^'j 

with foreign accommodations) bring the natural 
hot water by pipes into their houses for bathing purposes, and 
are largely patronized by persons afflicted with rheumatism and kindred 

diseases. The Higuchi charges 
three yen per day, including baths, 
and is a very comfortable house. 

Articles made of camphor- 
wood, a curious paper called 
"goose skin," and cloth known as 
Kimoro {Kee-moh-roh), made from 
paper and printed or stamped in 
a variety of patterns, are the 
purchasable novelties. 

Interesting trips of a few 
hours' duration may be made in sampans to many places along the shore, 
giving the visitor an opportunity of seeing the " tunnel rock " and other 
strange natural formations. 





Gev^fi' 



40 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



A walk up and along the high hill on the right of the town over a good 
path to the fisherman's signal station, located some eight hundred feet 
above, and looking out on the sea, can be accomplished by a lady without 
fatigue. 

On this point there is located a httle shelter with seats, hardly a tea-house, 
yet a cup of tea is served by an aged Japanese man, while the visitor watches 
the fishermen hauling their nets, or views the island of Oshima {Oh-shee- 
mah) in the distance, with its never ceasing volcanic smoke or steam curling 
in the air. 

Numerous walks and jinrikisha rides abound in the vicinity, sufficient to 
occupy two or three days. The sound of the surf rolling on the beach, which 

covers the whole front of the 
town, together with the delightful 
cHmate, is a continuous soporific 
suggesting sleep and rest. 

Leaving Atami by jinrikisha at 
eight o'clock in the morning, and 
traversing the road we had come, 
through Enoura and Odawara, 
Kodzu (twenty -nine miles, two 
yen) is reached in time to catch 
the 1. 10 train there, arriving in 
Yokohama at 2.48. 

It should be stated that small 
Japanese steamers ply between 
Atami and Kodzu, and Atami and Tokio ; but the necessity of getting on 
or off the steamers while at anchor, together with their very crude accom- 
modations and conveniences, render them less desirable than the jinrikisha 
road to Kodzu, which is sufficiently attractive to warrant its being traversed 
a second time. 

Whichever return course is followed the traveller will be somewhat 
fatigued upon reaching Yokohama; but calling into requisition the services 
of the blind shampooer, whose dual-toned whistle is heard upon the thorough- 
fares after nightfall, his massage treatment, at a cost of fifty sen, will relax 
the system and produce a restful sleep, resulting in readiness for the mor- 
row's demands. 




JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 4 1 



T 



POLITENESS, MORALITY, AND HONESTY. 

HE traveller will by this time have learned many of the peculiar and 
interesting characteristics of the Japanese. The formal politeness of 
all classes is a continued source of wonder, and yet the sensitiveness 
of their admirer may be shocked by the coolie or common native 
through his breaches of what we regard as common decencies of life. 

The bestowal of a gratuity or present upon a servant; the expressed 
sympathy of the traveller who, to lessen the labors of the coolie tugging at 
the jinrikisha shafts, walks instead of rides up a steep hill; the payment 
for purchases made or services rendered, produce the most extravagant 
acknowledgements and profound obeisances. Even a gratuitous service 
rendered is coupled with a placing of the hands upon the knees, and bowing 
of the head and body as near the ground as the spinal column of the native 
will permit. Yet an answer to the calls of nature is performed by these same 
people (we are speaking now of the common classes) upon the roadside, 
even in the presence of ladies, entirely oblivious of the indecency of the 
act itself or consequent exposure of the person. 

The patience of the traveller will oftentimes be tried by the natural 
procrastination of the coolies who are to make a journey ; but it must be 
borne in mind that the one surplus commodity in Japan is time. The seem- 
ingly useless pow-wow before starting, and the frequent stops at roadside 
inns or ''chow" houses, had better be regarded with complaisance. Excited 
protests go for naught, while good nature and the promise of a five or ten 
sen present will result in a great saving of time and patience. 

The condition of single blessedness of Japanese women is immediately 
recognized by the two or three inch wide pleat passing over each shoulder 
upon their outer garment; while, in like manner, the absence of this sign 
indicates the married woman, among whom the custom of blackening the 
teeth, once so prevalent, is falling into disuse, although in the interior it still 
prevails to some extent. 

The question of morality, as applied to Japanese women, is more frequently 
decided by the visiting foreigner as very gauzy fabric, for the simple reason 
that nine out of ten base their conclusions upon what they see and hear in 



42 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



the cities of Yokohama and Tokio. The fact that in these two cities are 
found institutions known as the " Yoshiwara," in which are assembled, and 
living under sanction of law, hundreds or thousands of " frail beauties," is 
immediately pointed out as evidence of national open immorality. 

It is also argued that the law which compels the Yoshiwara woman 
to wear the bow of her obi {ph-bee\ or wide sash which encircles her waist, in 
front, instead of behind as is customary with the respectable woman, tacitly 
permits a displayed advertisement of her occupation, all 
of which admits of no direct denial. 

But social reformers have not yet agreed among 
themselves upon the social evil question. Whether the 
Japanese method of, so to speak, isolating this class, and 
by police and medical regulations seeking to prevent 
a spread of the physical ills and social disguisements 
resultant from the English or American indiscriminate 
conditions ; whether insisting that through the wearing 
of the obi bow the "joro" is, by indirection, protecting 
respectable women, are questions for theorists to decide. 
Such observations, however, as were possible in a com- 
paratively limited time, together with conversations with 
resident foreigners and Japanese gentlemen of educa- 
tion, leads the writer to the conclusion that the per- 
centage of immorality in Japan is no greater than exists 
in America and Europe, if indeed it equals it. 

A certain class of foreigners seem to think that their 
interests are subserved by representing the Japanese as 
the most immoral people on earth ; but it is doubtful if 
one of them can truthfully say that there exists in Japan 
any street where, after nightfall, immorality is so openly 
paraded as upon certain thoroughfares in London, New York, and other 
American cities. 

During our stay in Japan we failed to see a drunken native. This is in 
marked contrast to nearly every European or American city, where in a 
half-mile walk numbers of intoxicated persons will be met. 

Upon the question of education in Japan, many otherwise intelligent 
persons in America hold erroneous ideas for one of two reasons : first, lack 
of interest as to the true situation ; secondly, over-willingness to believe those 
who make a prominent feature of the alleged ignorance and semi-barbaric 
condition of the people. 




JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 43 

The total number of schools in the Empire (exclusive of private or public 
kindergartens) is about twenty-eight thousand, of which fifteen are Govern- 
ment schools, about two thousand five hundred private, and nearly twenty-six 
thousand public. There are over three million native students and pupils 
annually receiving education, out of a school population of about seven 
million, or about forty-seven and one-half per cent of the available number. 
Of over sixty-nine thousand teachers, sixty-eight thousand seven hundred 
and fifty are Japanese, and the remainder (say about two hundred and fifty) 
are foreigners, — American, British, and German. 

Nearly ten million of dollars (Japanese) are annually raised for educational 
purposes, two million of which come from school fees, five million from rates 
and taxes, and the balance from contributions, interest on funds, etc. 

The annual " Report of the Minister of State for Education," obtainable 
by addressing that official at Tokio, gives all details relating to the subject. 

Almost the first information given the newly arrived visitor to Japan will 
lead him to believe that the traveller must be on his guard against the 
alleged dishonesty of the natives He will be told that the Japanese mer- 
chant will take any and every advantage in matters of quality and price ; 
that his agreement or contract to manufacture, sell, or buy must not be 
regarded as reliable, and that the lower classes will pilfer and lie at every 
opportunity. 

All this we listened to, and then, as we would have done in any event, 
exercised due care in our purchases, expenses, and the safety of our belong- 
ings. But from first to last we failed to find a manufacturer or merchant 
who did not, with tis, carry out his agreement to the letter, while among 
the common people, whom we were frequently and necessarily in contact 
with, not only were we never subjected to a loss of any description, but we 
encountered such cases of abstract honesty that their recital would arouse 
doubts as to our veracity or the sanity of the persons referred to. 

We do not mean by this to controvert the statements of our informants, 
for we do not believe that the Japanese are freer from human failings than 
the balance of man and woman kind ; but it is a little singular, in the face of 
what we were led to expect, that our experience should have been as stated. 
Perhaps this feeling is emphasized by the fact that upon our return to 
America the straps from one of our trunks were stolen between the wharf 
and the hotel. 



44 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



TOKIO, THE CAPITAL. 

THE trip from Yokohama to Tokio (eighteen miles, fare fifty-four sen) is 
made by seventeen daily trains of the Imperial Government Railway, 
in about forty-five minutes each. Kanagawa, Tsurumi {Tsoo-roo-mee), 
Kawasaki {Kah-wah-sah-kee), Omori {Oh-jnoh-ree), and Shinagawa 
{Shee-nah-gah-wah) stations are passed in succession ; but the route presents 








but little of interest to the traveller, being for the most part through low rice 
lands, the artistic planting of which, however, will not escape observation. 

The station at Tokio, called Shimbashi {Shim-bah-shee\ a modern stone 
structure in English style, is five minutes by jinrikisha from the Imperial 
Hotel, and fifteen to twenty minutes from the Club Hotel. The Imperial is a 
handsome stone edifice overlooking the grounds, walls, and moat surrounding 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



45 



the Imperial Palace; while the Club Hotel is located upon the bay front, in 
the foreign concession of Tsukiji {Tsoo-kee-Jee), and was formerly occupied 
by the American legation. 

The city, claiming a population of 1,400,000, and covering an area of 
thirty-six square miles, is divided into fifteen districts ; viz. Koji-machi 
{Koh-gee-i7iah-chee\ Kanda {Kan-dah), Nihon-bashi [Nee-hon-bah-shee), Kio- 
bashi {Kyoh-bah-shee\ Shiba {She-bah), Azabu {Ah-zah-boo), Akasaka {Ah-kah- 
sah-kah\ Yotsuya {Yoh-tsoo-yah\ Ushigome {Oo-shee-goh-inay), Koishikawa 
{Koh-ee-shee-kah-wah), Kongo {Hon-goh), Fukagawa {Foo-kah-gah-wah), Shi- 
taya {She-tah-yah), and Asakusa {Ah-sah-koo-sah). While these districts may 
be likened to the divisions of American cities known as wards, they possess 
more significance, inasmuch as the name of the district is always used in 
addressing letters, locating residences and business houses, or places of 
interest generally. 

The main business thorough- |fv 
fare from Shimbashi station is 
called the Ginza {Ghi-zah), in 
which is located many of the 
shops. Proceeding down the 
Ginza the Kio-bashi or Kio- 
bridge is reached, in the midst 
of the district of the same name. 
Nihon-bashi comes next ; but 
before reaching that place, or 
rather after crossing the Kio- 
bashi, a turn to the right for one 
block takes the curio-hunter into the Naka-dori {Nah-kah\ or Naka Street, 
running parallel with the Ginza, where a great number of insignificant 
appearing shops will be found, filled with every kind of Japanese (and many 
Chinese) curios. Taking everything into consideration, the shops in this 
street contain a greater variety of curiosities than any other street in Japan. 

The visitor may spend many days of interest following the continuation 
of the Ginza, simply for the purpose of looking into the business places, or 
watching the endless throng of natives filling the street and shops or pur- 
suing their various occupations of manufacture. 

Here is a cabinet maker, seated upon the floor, with plane in hand, 
smoothing off the parts of a cabinet. We notice he draws the plane toward 
him instead of pushing it away ; and if using a saw, he works it in the 
opposite direction to our custom. The needle-woman sews from her instead 




46 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 




'"^^//y/y NoK'I, 



of towards her. The tailor makes the lining to the coat first; while in 
building a Japanese house the roof is first built upon the ground, then raised 
and the house built under it. 

Japanese books are printed with page one at the (to us) back of the book, 
while the reading matter is placed in columns reading from the top to the 
bottom, the first column being on the right-hand edge of the page. The 

foot-notes are printed on the 
top margin. 

The horse, when put in a 
stall, has his tail where (with 
us) the head is found; its mane 
hangs on the left side ; the har- 
ness fastenings are all on the 
left, and its rider mounts on the 
right side. Their house gardens are at the rear, and the keys to their locks 
turn the opposite to ours. Many seemingly excellent reasons, from the 
Japanese standpoint, are given for these contrarieties ; but it is sufficient to 
here note the facts without entering into the whys and wherefores. 

Following the various continuations of the Ginza, Asakusa, situated near 
the Sumida-gawa {Soo-mee-da-gah-wah) river, is reached, where we see the 
Buddhist temples of Higashi-Hongwanji {Hee-gah-sJiee-Hon-gahn-jee\ one of 
the largest structures of the kind in the country. Aside from its immense 
proportions and elaborate roof, its chief interest lies in the carved ^^ ' 
woodwork about the portal. ^" 

A short distance farther on we alight at the entrance of a 
narrow street, both sides of which are lined with 
low brick buildings or shops containing every 
description of cheap wares. Passing up this way 
and through the enormous two-storied red-wood 
gate of the Sensoji {Sen-soh-jee) temple, 



flanked by hideous carved figures and 

decorated with large sandals put there 

by pedestrians, who hope thereby 

to be endowed with great walking 

powers, on the right is seen the 

great Asakusa bell, and on the left 

the temple building. Pictures, good and bad, lanterns, carvings, paintings, 

and images big and little adorn the interior. Scattered about the grounds are 

a number of buildings containing figures and carvings in wood and stone. 




JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



47 



The five-storied pagoda on the right is a fine specimen of Oriental 
architecture, and we regretted that we were prohibited from entering it and 
ascending the stairs. This, hke nearly all pagodas, has "wind-bells " sus- 
pended from the four corners of each story, which give forth a variety of 
musical tones when there is sufficient wind to vibrate the bells. Our disap- 
pointment, however, was more than compensated in the ascent of the Asakusa 
or Junikai {Joo-nee-ki) tower, just across the temple grounds. Built of brick,, 
it is three hundred and twenty feet in height, with an electric elevator tO' 
within three stories of the top. At the time of our visit the elevator was 
out of repair, making the ascent on foot a task that tested the lungs. Yet 
the galleries of pictures and paintings by native artists, 
exhibited on every floor, tempted us to rejoice that 
the climb was forced upon us. 

The ascent of this tower should not be omitted, 
for from its top gallery a view of the city and its 
surroundings presents a never to be forgotten scene ; 
and that this should be one of the first things done 
by the visitor to Tokio is recommended, because it 
affords, under proper instruction, the clearest idea of 
locations and points of interest to be visited. 

On descending we turn to the right, first noting a 
series of badly executed paintings descriptive of the 
great earthquake of October, 1891. We then walk 
through the grounds, past myriads of hucksters' stands, 
and jugglers, street acrobats, and side shows without 
number ; but to us the most interesting feature is the 
throng of good-natured, pleasure-seeking natives in 

their queer costumes, and the never absent clack-clack of their wooden soles 
upon the pavements. 

A ride of about two miles in a westerly direction takes us to Uyeno 
{Oo-ay-noh) Park, which may be traversed in jinrikishas. The avenues of 
cherry trees; the lotus flower pond; the bronze image of Buddha {Boo-dah), 
twenty-one feet high, near the Seiyoken {Say-yoh-ken) inn (which, by the 
way, may be recommended to those wishing refreshments); the old gold 
gate at the termination of an avenue of stone lanterns ; the shrine erected 
about the year 1650 in memory of lyeyasu; the finely kept roads; and 
lastly, the Uyeno Museum, — these should receive at least a day's time, and 
even then many features of interest must be overlooked. 




48 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 




Another ride of nearly two miles to the westward, through apparently 
never ending streets of shops, and odors that greet the olfactory organs 
with overpowering strength, we reach the Koishikawa Arsenal, where the 

rifles for the Japanese army are 
made. A permit from the Army 
Department obtained through 
one's legation is necessary to 
gain entrance. We were cour- 
teously escorted through the 
works and gardens by Major 
Hanagata, of the Artillery Corps, 
and were particularly interested 
in the artificial lake and island, 
the prettily bordered stone paved 
walks, the landscape garden, the arched stone bridge, the plum and cherry 
trees, and the dainty refreshments served at his order in the tea-house of the 
garden. 

Returning to the Imperial Hotel 
through Kanda, we pass the long two- 
story buildings of the Insatsu Kioku, or 
Government printing bureau, which we 
visit later on, and skirt upon a broad, 
smooth boulevard the moat and wall 
which surround the Imperial palace. 

While the Palace is not open to the public, we find it worth while to cross 
the moat by one of the bridges and follow the road within an inner wall, 

the handsomely grassed slopes of 
which bordering the thoroughfare 
make it particularly attractive. We 
pass the bridge leading to the 
palace, and halt in front of the 
gateway for a momentary inspec- 
tion. 

The following morning, through 
the courtesy of the Traffic Manager 
and Master Mechanic of the Im- 
perial Government Railway, we visit the works of the Company, located near 
the Shimbashi station, where take place the general repairs to engines and 
cars and the building of the latter. Fifteen hundred hands, all Japanese, are 





JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



49 




employed, at rates of compensation that seem ridiculously small to us. For 
instance, a machine shop foreman who had been in the Company's service 
for six or seven years had reached the enormous wage of ninety sen (sixty- 
three cents) per day. Ordinary mechanics receive forty to fifty sen, con- 
ductors (" Guards ") on trains sixty to eighty sen, and engineers eighty to 
ninety sen per day. 

A brick building some dis- 
tance down the track, the doors ^ 
of which are kept securely 
locked, was opened to afford 
us a private inspection of the 
railway coach of His Majesty, 
the Mikado. Only eighteen feet 
long, mounted on single wheel 
trucks, and limited by the three feet six inch gauge of the road to seven 
feet width of body, the three compartments into which it is divided are 
scarcelv largrer than good sized closets. The old fashioned hair-cloth chairs 
in the centre compartment are hardly in keeping with the lining and uphols- 
tering of peacock blue silk ; but they are evidence of the early adoption of 
European ideas, although we were given to understand that the universal 
native custom of sitting on the floor is still observed by His Majesty. The 

exterior ornamentation of the 
coach is thoroughly Japanese, 
the lower half of the body being 
in black lacquer and the upper 
half in old gold lacquer, with 
carvings of the national symbol, 
the golden chrysanthemum, or- 
namenting the under side of the 
overhanging eaves as well as 
the caps of the journal boxes. 
Upon railway journeys the 
Mikado is always accompanied by one of the European railway officials, who, 
although riding in the royal coach and speaking the Japanese language, has 
never yet exchanged a word with His Majesty, all communication between 
the two being carried on by a third party — a member of the Imperial 
household. When the " royal train " is under way all other trains are side- 
tracked some distance ahead; and in the case of passenger coaches the 
window blinds of the side next which His Majesty will pass are all pulled 



n H ^jf^ ^j Sr 




%\ TibaS^-'^.-fo'^' 



50 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

down, that eyes of the common herd may not be cast upon the royal 
potentate. 

From the Shimbashi Station we turn to the left and walk through Hikage 
street and its continuation, narrow thoroughfares lined with curious shops, 
until Shiba Park is reached, within which is located the Shiba Temples. The 
bazaar of Kwankoba {Kdn-koh-bah\ beyond the "great gate " of the temples, 
presents an imposing scene of Oriental life, there being exposed here for 
sale almost every article required in the Japanese home, as well as toys, 
ornaments, and gew-gaws innumerable. 

The "great gate," with its colors and carvings, is alone worth a visit to 
this park ; but other gates, tombs, temples and shrines, exhibitions of gold 
and red and black lacquer, lanterns of bronze and stone, altars of resplendent 
beauty, and carvings and paintings representing years of patient artistic 
toil, attract the eye and cause us to wonder if the fame of Nikko, by reason 
of its claim of surpassing all this, must not be an exaggeration, — which we 
mentally resolve to expose if our observations warrant the same. 

At the "Maple Club" in Shiba, the visitor may by introduction witness 
the dances of the famous Geisha {Gay-shah) girls, whose dreamy, languid 
posturings and graceful movements, combined with their beautiful, bright 
costumes, suggest an Oriental sensualism which, but for their expressionless 
though pretty faces, might ensnare a neophite. 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 51 



SOCIAL COURTESIES. 

THROUGH the influence of a letter of introduction from our friend 
Mr. Fenollosa, of Boston, to Mr. K., a Japanese gentleman whose 
interest in manufactures and arts has done so much for the advance- 
ment of his country, we were extended social courtesies not usually 
accorded the visiting foreigner. 

Upon an appointed day this gentleman, accompanied by his secretary 
who spoke English very well, called for us at the hotel, where taking jinri- 
kishas our procession of five vehicles moved over the smooth road skirting 
the west side of the palace walls, across the military parade ground, on into 
the district of Akasaka, to the door of a Japanese club. Leaving our shoes 
at the door we draw on our overstockings and enter a rear private room 
where tea and cakes are served. We are then shown through the various 
rooms, after which we again enter the jinrikishas and ride to Shinagawa, 
about three miles distant, passing through the districts of Azabu and 
Shiba. 

The little shops along the various streets the whole way keep our eyes 
busy; but the speed at w^hich the coolies travel affords us nothing more 
than a hasty glance at hundreds of places where we could have spent hours 
in satisfying our curiosity. 

Alighting at the beautiful home of Mrs. M., in Shinagawa, we were 
received by that lady with the cordiality that marks the well-bred Japanese. 
Leaving our shoes at the door we pass through several apartments, the 
floors of which are covered with straw mats in a variety of tasteful patterns. 
The thresholds and woodwork generally are of dark wood, polished and 
lacquered to a degree that the old saying, "seeing your face in it," may be 
applied as literally true. 

The highest mark of respect a Japanese can show to his near friend is to 
present to him or her his accredited guests before receiving them in his own 
house ; therefore our introduction to the lady whose home we were now in. 

After partaking of Hght refreshments, wine, saki, cakes, and fruits, we 
were shown through the upper story rooms, where the entire absence of 
chairs, tables, bedsteads, and in fact furniture of any description, seemed 
to us very strange. Upon one side of each room was a square niche, twelve 



52 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



to eighteen inches deep, against the back of which hung a scroll picture 
(kakemono), the work of some native painter, while upon the base of the 
niche, raised six or eight inches from the floor, was an ornamental, delicate 
wooden stand, holding a vase with flowers or cherry blossoms. In the pass- 
ageway leading to the chambers stood a cabinet with polished sides and glass 
front, on the glass shelves of which were some rare specimens of gold and 
black lacquer boxes and ornaments, and pieces of satsuma ware and porce- 
lains, which the lover of curios would give a small fortune to possess. 




All Japanese floor mats are about three inches thick and three feet wide 
by six feet long — the interior being of successive layers of plaited straws, 
with the upper surface of ornate woven matting, the commoner qualities of 
which Europeans and Americans are familiar with. This uniformity in size 
results in the floor areas of houses being constructed upon the basis of " mat 
measurements." For example, referring to the size of a room, we would 
describe its dimensions as twelve feet square, while the Japanese would 
term it an " eight mat room." As the " tabi " {tah-bee) or cloth stockings are 
the only footgear coming in contact with the mats, their surface remains 
clean and unbroken, while the uniform size admits of their being changed 
from place to place in a room, or to other rooms, as fancy dictates. 

This day being one of the coldest we experienced in Japan, — the mercury 
dropping to twenty-eight degrees Fahr., — we were, at the club, as also in 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



53 




—ff/jB/\C/Y/ 



private houses, each furnished with an hibachi {Jiee-bah-chee\ or warming pot, 

with which to warm the hands. These are of cylindrical form — say twelve 

or fifteen inches in diameter and ten inches high — and 

made of copper or porcelain ; if of the latter, the pot is 

set in a square wooden box, with handles on opposite 

sides, by which the whole thing is moved about. The 

pots are two-thirds filled with ground fire-clay, upon 

which is burned pieces or sticks of charcoal, creating 

sufficient heat to warm the hands and perceptibly raise 

the temperature of a room. After a little time one 

becomes accustomed to the fumes of the charcoal, 

particularly if the paper screens forming the outside of 

the room do not fit too closely to prevent the entrance of draughts of cold 

air. 

For an inspection of the garden we leave the house by a door on the side 
, j^ , opposite to that by which we had entered, our 

shoes, which we here put on, having been con- 
veyed by a servant to the place of exit. Varieties 
of shade trees line the narrow paved paths leading 
to a sparkling stream of water running through 
the grounds, over which we cross upon a slightly 
curved miniature stone bridge ; while upon the 
right, shielded by the bright blossoms of the plum 
trees, stands the shrine, within a rustic bamboo 
structure, its ornamentation and figures being 

\ mostly of gold. Here the members of the family 

perform their devotions ; and we could not help 
wondering, as we looked at the sweet face of our 
hostess and the intellectual countenance of her 
young son as they stood in front of the shrine, 
what proof exists that their religious beliefs, prac- 
tices, and prayers are regarded by the Omnipotent 
Ruler with less of acceptance than are those of 
the Christian. 

At the garden gate we bid good-bye (sayonara) 
to our hostess and her son, and our coolies take 
up their trot through the town of Shinagawa, on 
the outskirts of which we alight at the garden entrance to the house of 
Mr. K. 




54 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

At the front door we again take off our shoes, and upon entering the 
house are presented to the two charming daughters of our host. When 
the word "presented " is used, it must be borne in mind that we could not 
converse in Japanese, nor could our host or his daughters speak a word of 
English ; so that whatever attempts were made on either side to say pleasant 
things, the spirit or point was often lost before the translation was made by 
our host's interpreter. 

The interiors of the better class of Japanese houses do not differ very 
materially. The ceihngs may be higher or lower, the rooms larger or 
smaller, but the sliding paper screens used to form the sides of the rooms, 
and the floor mats, are almost identical. 

Luncheon being announced, we were ushered into the room assigned 
to its serving. The silk cushions, two or three inches thick and perhaps 
twenty inches square, placed in a semi-circle upon the floor, indicated where 
we were to sit, — Mrs. G. on the left (the reverse of our position of honor), 
the writer of this description next, the secretary third, with our host and 
hostess on the right. The service was performed by the Misses K., assisted 
by a young lady friend called in for the purpose of " making tea," an accom- 
plishment without which the education of the Japanese lady would not be 
complete. 

Not being adepts in the native custom of sitting on our feet, we were 
compelled to " squat " Turk fashion ; but even a few minutes of this was 
enough to satisfy us that the posture could not be maintained for long. So 
offering to our host our apology for the positions which our feet and legs 
would certainly assume, we received the polite reply, " We cannot expect 
you to immediately do what we have been all our lives learning." For our 
accommodation an ebony table of delicate structure, about six inches high 
and eighteen inches square, was brought in and placed in front of us; upon 
this were laid dishes of sweetmeats as a first course. 

Then followed the ceremony of " tea-making " by the young lady pre- 
viously referred to, who, some ten feet from us, knelt before an hibachi, on 
the burning coals of which was placed a small copper tea-kettle, while near 
at hand were tea-caddy, empty bowls, and a bamboo tea-mixer resembling- 
somewhat an American wire egg-beater. Pouring into one of the bowls a 
little tea and adding water from the kettle, she proceeded to stir the contents, 
carefully pressing every fragment of the tea powder to extract its value, 
adding more tea and water, and again patiently kneading the contents for 
at least five minutes, occasionally testing its aroma by passing the bowl 
beneath the mouth and nose, until the consistency of " the brew " was like 



JAPAN AS IV E SAW IT. 55 

that of thill soup, and evidently to her satisfaction. The mixture was then 
turned into the ever present teapot, hot water was added, and the delicious 
beverage thus prepared, while we sat in silence observing the ceremony, was 
poured into delicate "Imari" cups, and served to us by the young lady 
daughters of our host. Whether the ceremony itself, and the careful man- 
ipulation observed in preparing the drink, led to our undue appreciation of 
its excellence we could not assert ; but it is true that at the time we admitted 
we had never before drunk properly prepared tea. 

After this came thrush soup, served in prettily decorated bowls, each 
bowl containing a pair of chop-sticks. How to handle soup with chop-sticks, 
or in fact how to handle chop-sticks at all, seemed at the moment a problem ; 
but by carefully watching our host we succeeded in manipulating them with 
the thumb and first two fingers after a fashion, and felt that life was still 
worth living when we extracted from the bottom of the bowl a piece of the 
bird. When Mr. K. conveyed the bowl to his mouth and drank the soup 
the whole problem was solved. 

After this came baked fish, well cooked and seasoned, followed by fish 
soups ; and then, upon really beautiful porcelain platters, two slices of what 
looked like boiled codfish, the slices being interlarded with a green paste to 
which we were strangers. A morsel conveyed to the mouth revealed the 
fact that the fish was raw, and the secretary informed us that one of the 
beautiful red and white "tai" (//) which we had seen swimming about in 
a tank near the kitchen furnished the present course. The raw fish in itself 
was not disagreeable, but when to help its taste we combined a section of 
the before mentioned paste, which proved to be mustard, the temperature 
of that room was increased to summer heat. 

The next course was boiled rice, appearing — so nicely was it cooked 
— like a pile of snowflakes. Then a vegetable mixture containing, among 
other things, delicate shoots of bamboo, cut into small pieces, and looking 
and tasting somewhat like asparagus. This was followed by a salad, a prin- 
cipal component of which was a vegetable called "ninjin" {nin-jin\ which 
emitted a perfume that precluded the possibility of our attempting to eat it ; 
and for the first time we realized how the scent of the common onion, used 
by us at home, must strike the olfactory nerves of a novice in its use. 

Between each course " saki " {sah-kee\ the native drink distilled from 
barley and rice, and said to contain about fifteen per cent of alcohol, was 
served in the Japanese red-iacquered saki cups, shaped very much like 
our "after dinner" coffee saucers, but with a base deep enough to permit its 
being held between the fingers. 



56 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

Between two of the later courses our host arose, with saki cup in hand, 
and crossing over until in front and facing Mrs, G., he dropped upon his 
knees. Filling her cup and his own, they silently drank each other's health, 
and then rinsing their cups in a bowl of water standing between them on 
the floor, they completed the formality by exchanging cups, that received by 
the guest to be kept as a souvenir of the occasion. 

A like ceremony was performed between our host and the writer of this, 
and, shortly after, the luncheon, which had covered about three hours' time, 
was brought to a close. We were not sure when we arose to our feet 
whether our vertebra would ever again resume the normal condition, and 
our limbs felt very much as must those of the six-day pedestrian near the 
close of his task. 

Cigars, undoubtedly provided especially for the writer (for the Japanese 
are not cigar smokers), and another cup of tea were served in a reception 
room ; after which, making our adieus to the silk-robed ladies and our genial 
host, we resumed our shoes at the main entrance, where, with lighted long 
rice-paper lanterns — which every jinrikisha man is by law compelled to carry 
at night, and which we by the condition of our passport are bound to see are 
carried — we found the coolies and jinrikishas patiently waiting us. 

A moment later we were bowling along through the narrow streets of 
Shinagawa toward our hotel, six miles distant ; not alone, however, for behind 
us came Mr. K. and his secretary, who, ever mindful of the complete 
demands of Japanese courtesy, regarded us as his guests until he had seen 
us within the doors of our hotel, where, placing his hands upon his knees 
and bowing three times, he bade us "sayonara." 

The following evening our host of ths previous day again called upon 
us, leaving letters of introduction to a number of his Japanese friends in 
other cities, the after presentation of which resulted in a series of personal 
courtesies not usually accorded the visiting foreigner. In one of the cities 
the writer, having received an invitation to a Japanese dinner of a semi-pubhc 
character, was compelled to send his regrets; but the next morning a messen- 
ger, in accordance with native custom, brought to the hotel a large paper box 
containing the dinner of the previous evening, including a small porcelain jar 
of saki-cordial. 

The visitor will observe, with a feeling akin to regret, the foreign style of 
architecture and construction of the public buildings in the capital; among 
them being the new Parliament halls, the Imperial University, the Post 
Office, and others, which we visited, but to which we need not give extended 
notice here. 



JAPAN AS WE SAW JT. 



57 



The buildings of the Insatsu Kioku, or Imperial Printing Bureau, situated 
to the east of the Palace, had previously attracted our attention, but the 
continuous sight-seeing of our already ten days' stay caused us to postpone 
an early application, to our legation for a permit to inspect it. Then we 
learned that it would require two days at least to secure the desired docu- 
ment, another day to fix the time when we would be received, after which 
the inspection would be of a purely formal character, including the partaking 
of a lunch. We could not well spare the time necessary for this formality, 
and were assured that under no other conditions could we gain admittance. 
On our way back to the hotel, however, the writer decided to go directly to 
the Bureau and present himself as a printer, which resulted in his cordial 
reception by Mr. Tokuno, the Chief 
of the Bureau. 

The establishment, in busy sea- 
sons, employs some two thousand 
work-people (all Japanese), engaged 
in the production of the printed 
forms, account books, and public 
documents required by all depart- 
ments of the Government. Here 
also is made the paper money of 
Japan, and postage stamps for the 
Post Office Department ; every de- 
tail of the work, engraving the 
steel plates, printing the sheets, 
numbering, perforating, gumming, and packing being carried on in well 
organized departments. To guard against the purloining of the paper money 
the employees of the money departments are subjected to a close inspection 
of their persons each day before leaving the building; the women, some two 
hundred of whom are employed, being examined by persons of their own sex. 

The printing presses are all of German make, comparing favorably with 
similar machines in America, but incapable of the speed of ours. A paper 
cutter and cycloidal engraving machine were the only articles of American 
manufacture seen. 

The types used are made in various sizes, there being about six thousand 
live characters in a "font." These characters are either Chinese ideographs, 
expressing ideas rather than sounds, or "kana," that is, characters denoting 
the sound of separate syllables. Thus, in setting the phrase "Wakarimasu- 
ka" (Do you understand?) there may be an ideograph for the verbal root 




^m'^^^"^^ 



58 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

" wakari," followed by kana for the remaining syllables ; or there may be six 
kana characters, "wa," "ka," "ri," etc., in succession, one for each of the 
six syllables. In other words, it is not a question (as in English) of arbitrary 
spelling, but rather an assembling of characters that priDduce the required 
ideas and sounds. 

The active and noisy part of type-setting, or, to use the trade term, 
•■composition," in a Japanese printing office, is performed by a number of 
intelligent boys, under the direction of one or more men compositors. Each 
of the latter — seated at a stand, sometimes in the centre but oftener at 
one end of the type room — has in front of him the "copy" or manuscript 
to be set. Calling aloud a line from this copy, boy number one takes his 
cue, and, running from box to box in which the characters are kept (but 
all the time repeating aloud the line), collects the types required to form 
the words of that line. Boy number two takes from the compositor the 
next line, and so on until all the boys are moving about the room in search 
of the types required ; meanwhile each one repeats aloud the words forming 
the line he is after. To a stranger this monotonous chanting is " confusion 
worse confounded"; but when it is understood that, with the ordinary 
Japanese, the sound must strike the ear to effect its meaning on the brain, 
he ceases to wonder at the operation. Sometimes the matter to be set is 
given the boys in writing, but in any event they deliver the types collected 
to the compositor, who completes the work by inserting from the case in 
front of him such of the forty-seven kana syllabic characters as may be 
required to form the connections. 

Compositors and pressmen receive as wages an average of fifteen yen 
(say $10.50) per month, although particularly expert hands sometimes receive 
as high as twenty-five yen ($17.50) per month. 

To Mr. Tokuno we express our obhgations for the several hours devoted 
to showing the facilities and methods employed in this very complete estab- 
lishment, which every visitor to Japan should see something of. 

The paper used here is all made at the Government paper mills in the 
suburban village of Oji, the process of manufacture being especially inter- 
esting to one engaged in an allied business. 

Two weeks is but a short time in which to see the most interesting 
features of Tokio, even if every available hour is utilized ; and to attempt 
description of the shops and their contents, the processes and skill of the 
artizans, visits to the theatres, gardens, and suburbs of the city, would require 
a volume by itself; therefore we hasten our departure for Nikko, the won- 
derful place of temples. 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



59 



NIKKO. 



FROM our hotel in Tokio jinrikishas convey us in thirty-five minutes to 
Uyeno station, from whence trains of the Nippon Railway leave for 
Nikko at 8.50 and 11.35 a.m., covering the intervening ninety-one 
miles in five hours and five minutes (fare $2.78). While wailing in the 
station entrance while Shimid procured tickets, a pohce officer demanded our 
passport, a performance to be repeated by others many times in the future. 




Orr}^/r (/ura-. i'/AAo- 

In each first-class compartment of this railway we found a little wooden 
stand containing a hot-water kettle, teapot, tea, and three cups for the 
accommodation of patrons. 

At Utsunomiya {Oo-tsoo-noh-;;iee-yah) Junction (sixty-six miles) we change 
cars for the twenty-five miles run (?) to our destination, a continuous ascent 
all the way, but made particularly interesting by the proximity of the railway 
to the " Emperor's Highway," formerly the only mode of reaching Nikko, 



6o 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



which we cross and recross several times, giving us an occasional glimpse of 
the seventeen miles of stately cryptomerias forming the sides of the avenue. 
Alighting at the Nikko station we traverse by jinrikishas the principal street 
of the town, hned with little shops where are sold curios, photographs, skins, 
sweetmeats, and wooden trinkets. 

Continually ascending for nearly two miles, until, reaching the Daigawa 
{Di-gah-wah) River, which is spanned by two bridges, we cross that one 
directly in our path, it being for the accommodation of ordinary mortals. 
That on the left is the Red Lacquered or Sacred Bridge, solely for the use 
of the Mikado, regarding which it is related that when General Grant visited 
Nikko, accompanied by members of the Imperial household, he was handed 

a translation of an edict of 
the Mikado, throwing open 
the Sacred Bridge to him. 
After reading it and giving 
a few puffs on his cigar, he 
said, " I will be the last 
person to break a law of 
Japan," and crossed the 
public bridge. 

Following the road to 
the left, close to the river, 
for a quarter of a mile, then 
a turn to the right, and we 
are at the Nikko Hotel. 
Comfortable accommoda- 
tions are found here in foreign style, including, during the winter season, 
stoves in bedrooms. Curio dealers lie in wait to show their wares, helping 
one to pass the time before retiring. 

At nine o'clock next morning (for the temples are not open before that 
hour) we ascend the hill to the back and right of the hotel, and are imme- 
diately within the temple grounds. A payment of thirty-five sen made to a 
priest near the entrance procures tickets admitting to all the public buildings. 
Here also the visitor may obtain a small guide-book, with pictorial map 
locating each of the temples and mausoleums, principal among the latter 
being the Mausoleum of lyeyasu {Ee-yay-yah-ss) and the Mausoleum of 
lyemitsu {Ee-yay-mee-tss). 

It should be understood that each of these embraces beautiful carved and 
lacquered entrance buildings ; stone and bronze lanterns and torii ; stone 







JAPAiV AS WE SAW IT. 



6l 




It /ic//~^\/AA() 



and wood sculptures and carvings of birds, dragons, lions, and deities ; gates 
within gates, and chapels and temples, the entrances to the latter being 
covered with masses of carvings in wood, bronze, and ivory, representing 
gods, lions, tapirs, unicorns, elephants, tigers, 
flowers, and plants, in fact every symbol known 
to the Japanese, whether original or borrowed 
from the Chinese or Koreans. The floors of the 
chapels and temples are covered with ornate mat- 
tings, upon which the boot heel of man or woman 
never has trodden. The walls are series of paint- 
ings and carvings representing years of toil, many 
of them marvels of art, yet not a few unworthy 
of the adulations lavished upon them simply be- 
cause they are where they are. 

The archaeologist and mythologist find in the 
altars and interior adornments subjects for hours 

of thought and study ; and while admiring the magnificent five-storied pagoda, 
over one hundred feet high, situated on the left of the entrance to the Mauso- 
leum of lyeyasu, the carved paintings 
of the twelve signs of the Zodiac on 
its base suggest the thought, " Who 
were the people who in 1650 pro- 
duced these astronomical emblems, 
and realized their significance as 
perfectly as we do to-day 1 " Those 
who desire to learn each detail of 
the traditions, history, art, architect- 
ure, and labor attached to Nikko-san 
(mountains of the sun's brightness) 
during the past eleven centuries, will, 
with the best obtainable authorities, 
have a field without limit, surrounded 
by the softened, hallowed effect which 
these forest-embowered temples and 
commemorative emblems must pro- 
duce upon the mind of even the least susceptible. 

" Nikko the beautiful" it assuredly is ; and had our long journey been 
solely for the purpose of seeing it, we should have turned homeward feeling 
amply rewarded for the time and expense involved. Three days here seems 




'" df^rlR's'^S^^ 



maicl^ii 



62 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



too short a time, but we must see the neighboring cascades bearing the 
romantic titles of '' Pillow Cascade," " Mist Falling Cascade," " Vermicelli or 
White Thread Cascade," and the "Whirlpool," into which, during our visit, 
a German baron accidentally slipped, and was with difficulty rescued. We 
were very desirous of seeing Lake Chuzenji, about nine miles from Nikko, 
but found it impossible to obtain coolies and kago {kangd) chairs with which 
to be conveyed over the road, then said to be impassable. 

Instead of taking the railway 
train when leaving Nikko, we 
engage jinrikishas (two coolies 
each, fare seventy sen) to convey 
us back through the town, and 
thence for five miles to Imaichi 
{Ee-jnah-ee-chee) along the Em- 
peror's highway previously re- 
ferred to. This ride should not 
be omitted, for it gives an idea 
of what the road must have 
been before the innovation of 
Still in such fair condition that the coolies do not " break '* 
from their run during the hour necessary to accomplish the distance, we 
pass down this magnificent avenue, arched over with the branches of the tall, 
straight cryptomerias, standing like sentinels, unaware that the last of the 
long line of vice-regal rulers has cooled his brow beneath their protecting 
arms. Their duties to royalty have ended, and now the only passing notice 
given them is by occasional travellers like ourselves, who, led by stories of 
their grandeur, traverse a short five miles of their length, admire their 
beauty, and then desert them for the modern road of iron, by taking the 
cars at Imaichi on their way back to Tokio. 




CyVfkko //otc/ <s 
the iron horse 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



63 



SOUTHWEST FROM TOKIO. 



REMAINING one night in Tokio to pick up the heavy baggage left 
there, we find ourselves at six o'clock the following morning in a 
train of the Imperial Government Railway, en route to Nagoya 
{A^ah-go-yah\ two hundred and thirty-five miles distant. This route 
through Yokohama to Kodzu we are already familiar with, having traversed 
it on our trips to and from Miyanoshita and Atami. Beyond Kodzu the 
scenery becomes picturesque and mountainous, and the road, passing through 
tunnels and over bridges, discloses some new picture at every turn. 

After passing Sano station, some eighty miles from Tokio, the railway 
follows the Tokaido {Toh-ki-doh\ the great 
national highway, crossing and recrossing it 
at intervals. We were surprised at the fre- 
quent continuous masses of habitations lining 
that road, through which, in traversing, we 
were oftentimes unable to discern the point 
at which one village ended and the next com- 
menced. In fact, had not the railway stations 
successively indicated the names of the stop- 
ping-places, we might have imagined we were 
passing through compact cities extending for 
Most of the houses in 




miles along our route 



©ommoQ Village House- 

these villages are of the common thatched roof order, but e^/en in these roofs 
one may often see graceful artistic curves, with ridge structures of every 
conceivable design. 

Nearing Gotemba {Goh-iem-bah) station, from whence the ascent is usually 
made, Fuji comes into view, and from this point down to Iwabuchi {Ee-wa/;- 
boo-chee\ about thirty miles, we have the mountain looming up on our rio-ht, 
the finest view of it, in our judgment, being from a point just after leaving 
Gotemba, from which its twelve thousand three hundred feet from base to 
peak is plainly seen. 

The forty-eight miles thence to Hamamatsu are uninteresting. At the 
latter point more powerful engines are attached to haul the train over "the 
banks," a steady mountain climb at times reaching a grade of one foot in 



64 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



forty. Sixty-seven miles more and we alight at the temporary station of 
Nagoya, the former building, together with the entire family of the station 
keeper excepting one infant child, having been destroyed by the earthquake 
of the previous October. Jinrikishas transfer us to the semi-foreign inn 
called Hotel du Progres, nearly two miles distant, the passage being through 
streets with numbers of buildings wholly or partially wrecked by the 
earthquake. 

Visitors to Nagoya are advised to stop at the Shukin-ro {Shoo-kin-roh) 
Japanese inn; for a more uninviting and rat-pervaded establishment than 

the aforesaid Hotel du Progres we did 
not find in Japan. The " Kwankoba " 
bazaar, a large building on the east 
side of the principal street, contains 
nearly every desirable article of manu- 
facture produced in the vicinity, includ- 
ing porcelains made at Seto {Say-toh\ 
fifteen miles distant, and cloisonne and 
fans produced in Nagoya. 

The old castle Shiro iShee-roh) is 
the star attraction of the city, a permit 
to enter which must be obtained at 
the Prefecture or Government Office. 
Should any delay be involved in ob- 
-taining the permit, we would advise 
going along without it ; for a jinrikisha 
ride with a view of the castle exterior 
leaves a far more satisfactory impres- 
sion than an interior inspection, saving 
and excepting the extensive outlook from the fifth story. With recollections 
of Nikko still fresh in mind, the five or six temples here may well be 
omitted. 

At the time of our journey the railway from a short distance beyond 
Nagoya to Ogaki {Oh-gah-kee) was not in operation, owing to its wreckage 
by earthquake on the morning of October i8, 1891, and we were compelled, 
upon reaching Yi.\s,og2iW2i iKee-soh-gak-'wah\ to hire jinrikishas and coolies to 
cross the intervening fourteen miles of country. To transport myself and 
wife, Japanese attendant and baggage, required five jinrikishas and a two- 
wheeled mail cart, with twelve coolies to do the pulling, pushing and 
grunting. 




&astl'l^^°^ 



JAPAN AS IVE SAW IT. 



65 



The highway had not escaped the earthquake shock, having been rent 
open for miles; and the attempts that had been made to repair it by putting 
in wet earth, together with the recent rains, made it well nigh impassable. 
This condition of things compelled our coolies to resort to the three or four 
feet wide paths running through the rice fields, into the mud of which the 
wheels sunk almost to the hubs. We crossed three rivers on open sampans, 
jinrikishas, mail cart, coolies and ourselves being indiscriminately huddled 
together during the passages. Once more forced to the highway because of 
the submersion of paths the coolies struggled on, at times apparently reach- 
ing the limit of their power in endeavoring to get the vehicles out of the mud. 
Every few minutes we passed the 



wrecks of houses and villages : and 
it is safe to say that there did not 
remain fifty houses intact within the 
fourteen miles. So great was the 
force of this earthquake that in half 
a minute it rendered homeless an 
entire section, and crushed to death 
six thousand people beneath its 
ruins. 

The last two miles of the ride 
into Ogaki was over a fairly hard 
road, along which the coolies ran at 
the top of their speed, showing the 
wonderful powers of endurance of 

these people, and the slight effects of the terrible physical strain to which 
they had been subjected. A present of ten sen to each man, in addition to 
the regular earning of one yen (seventy cents), was received with the most 
profound acknowledgements. 

Alighting at the entrance to a little tea-house near the railway station, 
where we were served with tea and sweet-cakes, we sat upon its raised floor, 
open to the street, and looked out upon the scene of desolation about us. 
A native, in kimono and clogs, who spoke very imperfect English, took the 
opportunity to commence conversation by inquiring if we were missionaries. 
Upon receiving a negative reply he continued about as follows : " Missionary 
come here. Say he God only one. Nothing happen only he God say so. 
Little bird not drop from tree only He say. Some Japanee believe that. 
Earthquake come ; one minute knock down all house, kill thousand peoples. 
Japanee go missionary, ask him, 'You say nothing happen only your God 







Irth^V^-f^R 



Re^u! 



66 JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 

say so. He make His earthquake. Not good. Go away. Not want so cruel 
God.' " 

We recognized the uselessness of advancing arguments to combat opinions 
so deeply seated ; for to his mind a positive fact had been asserted, an object 
lesson given, and if the result was brought about by the asserted power, a 
Spurgeon with Japanese tongue would have pondered long before framing 
a reply that could make a favorable impression on the native mind or change 
'his logical (?) conclusions. 

We had looked forward to a visit to the town of Gifu, a place of some 
importance lying upon the main line of the railway, nineteen miles north of 
Nagoya, and celebrated for its production of silks and crapes ; but our 
enforced jinrikisha ride carried us to the west of it, and the condition of 
the roads deterred us from attempting a repetition of the experience we had 
just passed through. 

By a train taken at Ogaki we again resumed the rail journey, passing 
through miles of tea plant *' farms" and fine pine growths. Just at dark we 
passed Baba {Bah-baK), near the southerly end of Lake Biwa, and the 
alighting point for Otsu, a mile distant, and a tour of the lake : but under 
the circumstances we preferred going on to Kioto, leaving Lake Biwa for a 
special trip. 

Our example, however, should not be followed, now that the resumed 
operation of the railway from Nagoya permits the traveller to leave that city 
by an early morning train, spend a few hours in Gifu, and be comfortably 
housed at the semi-foreign hotel "Minarai-tei " {Me-nari-tay) in Otsu before 
nightfall, ready for a tour of the lake the next morning. 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 6/ 



KIOTO. 

KIOTO was reached shortly after seven o'clock (on one of the darkest 
nights possible), and jinrikishas were taken for the Kioto Hotel, 
between two and three miles distant, through the city. 

Our usual order of procedure in jinrikishas was Mrs. G. first, the 
writer next, then Shimid, the rear being brought up by the baggage. By 
some oversight, on this occasion the coolie started off with the writer first, 
and with Mrs. G. following Shimid, a stranger traveller bringing up the 
rear. 




When midway through the city the stranger turned off in a direction at 
right angles to our course, whereupon Mrs. G.'s coolie, imagining that she 
belonged to the stranger, turned also and followed him. Meantime the 
writer, unaware of what was going on behind, kept on toward the hotel. 
Mrs. G. soon discovered that she was separated from us, and going "good- 
ness knows where." Her exclamations of " Kioto Hotel " to the coolie, who 
imagined she was trying to say " hayaku " {hay-yah-kod) — hurry — only served 
to hasten his pace, until, catching up with the traveller, a German gentleman 
who fortunately spoke Japanese, he was told that the lady did not belong 
with him (the German), but with the other party that had gone to the 
"Tokiwa" {Toh'-kee-wah\ the native name of the Kioto Hotel — where she 
shortly after arrived, to the great relief of all. 



6S JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

Kioto, more than any other city in the empire, enters into the ancient 
history of Japan, for from the year 793 until 1868, when the revolution 
abolished the feudal system, it was continuously the capital of the country. 
It covers an area of twenty-five square miles, and is watered by the 
Kutsuragawa, on the west, and the Kumagawa, which flows through the 
eastern side of the city. Three sides of Kioto are enclosed by mountains, 
and on the slopes of these, particularly to the east and north, no less than 
forty-five temples are located. 

The city contains nearly half a million inhabitants, and, besides being 
one of the most interesting in Japan, is a very comfortable place for the 
sojourn of foreigners, on account of its two excellent hotels, the Kioto or 
Tokiwa, and the Yaami {Yak-ah-7ne), both of which have foreign and Japanese 
styles of accommodations. The former is located in the heart of the city, 
and is best adapted for a winter visit, while the latter i§ prettily situated 
on a hillside overlooking the town, and must be charming during the hot 
months. 

Foreign ladies usually defer their purchases of silks and embroideries 
until they reach Kioto, and then the shops of " Takashimaya" {Tah-kah-shee- 
mah-yah) and " Nishimura " {Nee-shee-moo-i'-ah\ as well as those of lesser 
note, are the first to be visited. Probably the assortment of beautiful silk 
goods and embroideries displayed by these concerns are unsurpassed on 
the face of the globe. The miniature gardens in the rear of their shops are 
so extremely attractive that the visitor feels impelled to linger in their 
vicinity, thus affording an opportunity for the silk-robed salesman to display 
his wares. 

Those who desire to see the finest specimens of bronze and cloisonne, 
and at the same time learn something of the methods of manufacture, 
will visit the shops of " Namikawa " {Nah-me-kah-wah), " Shojodo," and 
" Nogawa." 

Fans of the commoner sort, such as our American railways use for 
advertising, and from these up to the most elaborate and expensive kinds, 
are made by "Nishida" and ''Misaki;" and it is well worth an effort to 
climb the steep stairs leading to the workrooms, to see the deft fingers of 
the workmen, squatted on the floor, turning and twisting the sticks and paper 
or silk into unique shapes, and watch the paint brush placing upon the 
otherwise finished fan the decorations which stamp them as distinctly 
Japanese. 

In a poor little shop near the Kioto Hotel, the skilful manipulation of 
the bamboo into nests of boxes, card plates, and sets of toy furniture by 



JAPA.V AS IV;-: SAW IT. 



69 



'' Wada " {Wah-dah\ affords an example of artistic skill struggling to make 
a bare living. 

Curio shops, book stores, and porcelain establishments abound on every 
nand ; and it may be said that in no other country visited have we seen as 
many book and paper stores as exist in every city, town, or village in Japan. 
The lover of antique curios, however, will find his elysium in the numberless 
little shops situated in the narrow street called Manjuji-dori. 

The foreign lady, when strolling through the streets, may be annoyed by 
groups of men, women, and children following at her heels ; but it should be 
understood that they are impelled by the same curiosity that leads street 
crowds in American cities to follow natively arrayed Japanese, but with the 
difference that uncivil remarks 
would be made by the American s -> 
crowd ; whereas Shimid assured 
us that throughout Japan, if we 
could have understood every 
word said regarding us (with 
one exception), nothing was ut- 
tered of an offensive nature. 

The several theatres in Kioto 
are worth looking into, if only to 
save some other traveller from 
saying, " You should have seen 
them; " but the same discordant music, similar swarms of tea drinkers and 
cake and sweetmeat eaters, and equally incomprehensible performances are 
found here as elsewhere. 

Temples abound in and about Kioto, the largest of which, the Nishi- 
Hongwanji {Nee-shee-Hoii-gahn-jee)^ near the railway station, being worthy 
of a visit, to watch the entrance and exit of the crowds of worshipers, mostly 
women, alone being sufficient incentive. 

The Kiyomizu {Kee-oh-mee-zoo) is a curious structure, its support on the 




rear and sides resembling scaffolding or 



crib" 



work tied together or held in 



place by wooden "dowel " pins. 

The Kinkakuji {Kiri-kaJi-koo-jee\ a three-storied temple on the northwest 
of the city, presents a queer appearance, three of its sides being upon the 
waters of a small lake or pond. 

The Ginkakuji {Jin-kah-koo-jee\ or silver temple, on the east side of 
Kioto, is quite interesting by reason of its interior silver-toned decoration, 
which is (or was) intended to carry out its name. 



JO JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 

Just back of Ginkakuji stands the Dai-monji {Di-mon-jee) mountain, 
bearing upon its slope a peculiar artificial landmark resembling the Chinese, 
character signifying "dai," or great. This figure is formed by a series of 
holes or excavations, in which, at the time of our visit, the snow remained, 
while the surface of the mountain was bare. The bright sun falling upon 
the white snow character produced what might readily be taken for a 
massive silver hieroglyphic. We were informed that on the sixteenth of 
each July fagots, which had previously been thrown into the holes, are 
lighted at night, and the character then becomes an illumination of fire 
which is discernible at a distance of twenty miles. 




'AYo/v\rza Te/^ple 

The Daitokuji {Di-toh-koo-jee) is interesting on account 'of its interior 
paintings. The Toji {Toh-jee\ Ninnaji, Higashi Hongwanji, and numbers 
of others, each have their peculiar features and attractions ; but all lack the 
color, finish, and perfect condition of those at Nikko. 

To get a good view of the city, an ascent of the difficult stairs of the 
Yasaka {Yasah-kah) five-storied pagoda is recommended. 

Having seen the Dai-Butsu at Kamakura we were tempted, for purposes 
of comparison, to inspect Hideyori's Dai-Butsu in Kioto, built in the year 
1800. 

The history of the figures preceding the present one is that of continuous 
misfortunes, if such a statement may properly be used as covering the 
destruction of three images within the space of a little more than two cen- 
turies. The original wooden image, said to have been over one hundred 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. J I 

and fifty feet high, built about the year 1588, was destroyed by earthquake 
eight years later. A second figure, this time made of copper, and as large 
as the first, was nearly finished in 1603 when a fire so far destroyed it that 
it was not completed until 1614. Earthquake, in 1662, once more became 
the fell destroyer. A third figure, made of wood, and finished in 1667, was 
damaged by lightning in 1775, and finally consumed by fire in 1798. 

The present image is located, as were its predecessors, directly to the 
east of the railway station, in the Dai-Butsu-Den temple. Constructed 
entirely of wood, Avithout body or legs, it is said to be nearly sixty feet 
high. As a carving it is mammoth, but the pleasant expression of the 
Kamakura Dai-Butsu is missing; and as a work of art the latter retains 
the first place in our memory. 

The large bell just outside the south corridor of the temple is fourteen 
feet high by nine feet two inches in diameter. 

From a pocket guide to Kioto, published in Osaka, we learned that a bell 
exceeding in size all other bells, namely " 108 feet high," was to be seen at 
the Chion-in temple. While we, of course, knew this to be an exaggeration, 
our surprise may be imagined upon our arrival there, to find that the author 
or proof-reader of the pamphlet referred to had neglected to put a decimal 
point between the 10 and 8. 

The bell, however, is a great curiosity, its seventy tons weight being 
suspended in a tower built in 1618, preparatory to the completion of the 
bell, which did not occur until fifteen years afterward. 

The mammoth two-storied entrance building to the Chion Temple, at the 
termination of a broad avenue of cherry trees, is over eighty feet high. 
Access is had by a stairw^ay to the upper stor}^, where are seen a number of 
life-sized Buddhist figures, together with numerous paintings and carvings. 
From the balcony a very fine view of the city is presented looking to the 
west, while on the north the mountain view is really beautiful. 

The main temple, close by the entrance building, is one of the largest 
in Kioto, and the visitor who aims at even a cursory inspection of all its 
contents must devote the best part of a day to it. In fact, a similar statement 
may be made regarding many of these institutions, and the omission in this 
work of minute descriptions and details of exteriors and interiors should 
not be considered as an indication of the absence of extremely interesting 
features, but rather to a fear that repeated recurrence to such will weary tlie 
reader and increase the bulk of the volume. 

Through our legation in Tokio we had secured a permit, without which 
there is no admission, to visit the old Mikado's palaces in Kioto, and had 



72 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



looked forward with interest to using the privilege extended. Chamberlain 
says of these, " Even a passing glance at the exterior is better than nothing." 
He should have said, "See the exterior and be satisfied"; for after one's 
patience is exhausted by the delay and "red tape " to which he is subjected 
in gaining admittance, the interior is anything but interesting. 

Near the Mikado's palace is the Doshisha {Dok-she-shah), or foreign 
university, to the girls' school of which Mrs. G. paid a special visit, and 
, expressed herself delighted with the practical 

course of instruction therein pursued. Upon 
the following morning a pretty little Japanese 
girl, one of the scholars, rode up to the hotel 
door in her jinrikisha, and presented to Mrs. G. 
a dainty little piece of needle-work, made by 
herself, as a souvenir of the visit. 

If the lady traveller has not yet seen the 
geisha girls dance and heard the samisen girls 
play, Kioto is the best place to indulge the 
curiosity in private, for the city has great 
numbers of them ; and at an expense of about 
four yen for each girl the boy or guide will 
secure a bevy to give an evening performance 
in the Japanese quarters of the hotel. The 
dancing performance is quite "proper," and is 
worth seeing once, while a recollection of the 
music {!) permits one, upon arrival at home, to 
listen to the cornet or accordeon exercises of 
his next door neighbor with complacency, if not 
with delight. 

The passage of the Katsuragawa {Kah-tsoo- 
rah-gah-wah) rapids is one of the pleasantest 
day's experiences of Kioto. With jinrikishas (two men to each) we leave 
the hotel as early as seven o'clock, carrying lunch with us. After passing 
through the city in a westerly direction, and getting the full strength of the 
odors arising from the uncovered offal buckets carried by yoke-sticks on the 
shoulders of coolies, the contents of which are used as fertilizers on farms 
and market gardens, we make the ascent of a long hill covered with groves 
or forests of the beautiful bamboo, half way up which a halt is made at a 
one-story thatch-roofed "chaya," or roadside eating-house, where the coolies 
get rice, fish, and a smoke, while we drink tea and eat oranges. 




S,^////.',*"// <nrl 



JAPAN AS WE SA IV IT. 



73 



Near the summit a tunnel is entered, where the down grade commences, 
and the coohes break into "hiyi's " and a run at the same time. The latter 
they keep up through the little hamlet of Oji {Oh-Jee) at the foot of the first 
hill, until reaching the village of Hosu {Hoii-soo) upon the river (fifteen miles 
from Kioto by the road we have travelled), where are found sampans, or 
large flat-bottomed boats, waiting to take us down the rapids. The coolies 
and jinrikishas, with ourselves and three boatmen, comprise the cargo and 
crew of one sampan, which when pushed off from the shore immediately 
enters "quick water" that, in its passage between rock ledges, becomes a 
turbulent, seething mass. 

High-sounding names, such as "Tiger's Path," "Lion's Mouth," "High 
Rapid," etc., are given to rapids that at times, as we fly through, would seem 
to threaten destruction to our frail, 
flexible boat; but the long pole of 

our bowman and the stern oar - _ ''^^~^"'- t: 

guide the boat away from the 
rocks that lie in the course. The 
precipitous wooded hills on either 
side, the mad rushes through 
gorges and "around corners," the 
passing of timber rafts, and the 
meeting of boats rope-towed up 
river by men who leap from rock 
to rock, sustain the excitement 
of the passage, and present new 
pictures continually. 

The thirteen miles to Arishi-yama {Ah-ree-shee--yah-mah) and its tea- 
houses on the left bank of the river are passed all too quickly. Here, upon 
one of the projecting platforms, we eat the lunch we have brought with 
us, supplemented by tea and beer supphed by the tea-house keeper; and 
an hour later we alight from our jinrikishas in the courtyard of the 
hotel. 

For a tour of Lake Biwa {Bee-wah) we leave Kioto by the first train 
(about ^ix o'clock) in the morning, arriving in forty-five minutes at Baba 
station, one mile from Otsu, a bright, live town standing upon the shore of 
the lake. This lake is thirty-five miles long and twelve miles wide. From 
a hill, covered with a great temple called Miidera, on the northern outskirts 
of Otsu, a fine view of the lake and vicinity is afforded ; and it is well to 
ascend it, to fix in the mind the location of interesting points. 




/am^/earosid a Hoj:a . 



74 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 






A ride of between three and four miles along the shore of the lake brings 
us to the giant pine-tree Kurasaki {Koo-rah-sah-kee), nearly one hundred feet 
high and forty feet circumfeience of trunk, with perhaps four hundred 
branches from two hundred and thirty to two hundred and eighty feet long. 
So great are these limbs that a wooden frame work with stone supports are 
necessary to keep them from breaking. 

Returning to the village of Otsu we embark on a small steamer touching 
at Hikone {Hee-koh-nay) and Maibara {Mah-yee-bah-rah\ affording the finest 
possible views of Hiy-eizan {Hee-yay-zan) and Hirayama {Hee-rah-yah-inah) 

mountains on the opposite side of 
the lake, and of the lake itself. 

Hikone contains the ruins of an 
ancient castle, and has an excellent 
inn called Raku-raku-tei {Rah-koo- 
-ra]i-koo-tay\ and a beautiful gar- 
den which may be seen within a 
few minutes, and passage resumed 
on the same boat, if sufficient in- 
ducements be held out to the 
captain to tarry. 

At Nagahama {Nah-gah-hah- 
mah) we leave the boat, catching 
here a train on the branch road to 
Maibara (fifteen minutes' run), from 
whence a train on the main line 
gets us back to Kioto in time for 
late dinner. 

Lake Biwa, with nearly eighteen 
hundred villages fringing its shores, its west side a grouping of forest-covered 
mountains, and its east side a succession of settlements and cultivated 
gardens, is worthy of a more extended visit than we gave it ; and an inspec- 
tion of the curious Lake Biwa Canal, constructed upon the plans of Tanabe 
Sakuroa, former student of the College of Engineering in Tokio, is extremely 
interesting. Commenced in 1885, it was opened in 1890. The main branch, 
nearly seven miles long, flows into the Kamogawa River, which passes 
through the city of Kioto, and is used for purposes of navigation. The other 
branch, five miles long, is for irrigating and power purposes. Where surface 
excavation was not possible, the engineers have resorted to tunnelling, so 
that long stretches of the canal are not exposed to outside view. 




JAPAN AS WE SAW IT, 75 

A jinrikisha journey along the east coast as far as Naka-nogo {Nah-kah- 
nogo) must present many places and things worth seeing, and aiford fine 
views of the lake and opposite mountains ; but if the traveller merely desires 
to get a fair idea of the sheet of water and its surroundings, the one-day trip, 
as made by us, is sufficient for the purpose. 

Our itinerar}'^, allowing six days at Kioto, was already disarranged by 
our ten days' stay; owing, first, to the fact that places of interest lay long 
distances apart, and, second, to the attractive shops, compelling "just one 
more day," each day's stay bringing some fresh attraction that must be seen. 

A night ride in Yokohama, at the time, seemed a novel experience ; but 
traversing the narrow sidewalkless streets of Kioto, and finding wherever 
we might go the same throng of bronzed oriental humanity with its Babel 
of tongues, the long paper lanterns illuminating each shop front, and with 
coming of night the vendors' stalls on every thoroughfare, whose flaming 
torches give a weird color to the picture, — these formed a series of tableaux 
which not even the pencil of a Dore could reproduce with a realism worthy 
of the oriofinals. 



76 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



OSAKA. 



OSAKA is distant from Kioto twenty-seven miles by the Imperial Govern- 
ment Railway, and there are fifteen daily trains between the two cities. 
The Jiu-tei {Joo-tay) Hotel, a mile from the station, is an inferior 
institution, with foreign beds and table ; but as it is a matter of 
" Hobson's choice," there being no other, it must be accepted rather than 
miss seeing this "Venice of Japan." 




A glance at the sectional plan of Osaka on the 
general map shows that three rivers, or branches of rivers, flow through 
it, while seven canals traverse the main portion of the city, their sides being 
continuously occupied with houses overhanging the water. These rivers and 
canals are crowded with junks and sampans, carrying produce, passengers, 
and holiday makers from one section of the city to another, or to suburban 
tea-houses and gardens ; for the Japanese are an amusement-loving people, 
and whether it be a theatre, wrestling match, political meeting, or geisha 
dance, a crowd will always be present. 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



77 



The Mint, situated on the Yodogawa River, about fifteen minutes from 
the hotel, is worth visiting; and although the presentation of personal cards 
may gain one admittance, it is better to get a permit at the Prefecture 
office. 

On the opposite side of the river stands an old castle, surrounded by a 
moat and parapet walls, and with battlements upon the outward corner of 
each angle. Attention is called to the immense size of some of the stones 
forming the w^alls, one in particular 

weighing forty tons, so we were as- - ' 

sured. Admittance to the interior 
is had by presentation of cards at 
the entrance. 

Beyond the castle is the parade 
ground, where at the time of our 
visit a regiment of infantry was en- 
gaged in drill, which included jump- 
ing from a height and scrambling 
over obstructions. The inferior 
stature of the Japanese is very 
marked when an assemblage of 
men is thus seen together; and if 

it were possible to contrast it with a body of American troops, the latter 
would appear gigantic in comparison. 

The average height of Japanese men is about the same as EngHsh 
and American women, while with the opposite sex, the stature of the 
average American girl of fifteen would equal that of the Japanese matured 
female. The contrast, however, between the physical build of the upper and 
lower classes, particularly the men, is very marked. The majority of the 
former are narrow-shouldered, flat-chested, and with thin legs and arms. 
The latter are generally stout-limbed and full-bodied, but seldom have good 
hip development. The foreign traveller, therefore, by reason of his com- 
paratively great weight, must, upon jinrikisha journeys, have two, and some- 
times three, coolies to take him over a road that one would suffice for a 
Japanese. 

In this regard we had frequently observed that our coolies, before 
starting on a jinrikisha journey, would gather in a circle and go through 
some performance. Upon asking Shimid what it meant, he informed us 
that the coclies were tossing a coin "to see who would carry master" (the 
writer, who weighed one hundred and ninety pounds). 




y^ JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

Beyond a few unimportant temples, two bazaars, and some fine bridges 
spanning the rivers and canals, the chief attraction of Osaka lies in its 
shops ; and it would seem as though every family included within its half 
million inhabitants keeps a shop of some kind. In the district of Korai-bashi 
{Koh-ri-bah-shee) the curio shop of Yamanaka-( Yah-mah-nah-kah) will be found 
worthy of a call, and there are many others in the vicinity. 

Yube Meizan {May-zan\ one of the leading porcelain decorators in 
Japan, resides and has his workshop at 197 Yashiki {Yah-shee-kee). A very 
interesting hour was spent in observing the methods employed by him in 
placing on the ware the colored ornamentations which, by reason of their 
delicacy of detail, command such high prices. 

While Meizan makes the designs for each piece, his workmen, squatted 
on their mats, execute by the aid of magnifying lenses their parts in detail. 
One paints butterflies and flowers ; another, the diminutive open-eyed and 
face-expressioned human figures ; yet another, landscapes ; and so on. For 
this employment of artistic skill they receive the enormous compensation of 
one yen per day. 

Those who fancy the blue and white cotton rugs seen everywhere in 
Japan, and sold in America at exorbitant prices, should visit the shop of 
Mitani {Mee-tah-nee\ on the street called Hommachi, where the rugs in any 
size, color, and quality are sold. These are woven at Sakai {Sah-ki\ six 
and a half miles from Osaka, on the Hankai {Han-ki) Railway (trains every 
forty minutes from the Nanba station on the south side of the city). 

Of the large cities of Japan, Osaka shows less the result of foreign 
intercourse than any. To be sure an occasional public building in European 
style is encountered, looking strangely out of place amid the labyrinth of 
native structures ; but the whole atmosphere of the city leads to the con- 
clusion that it is more distinctly Japanese than any of its contemporaries. 
Its canals, markets, shopping streets, temples, gardens, and tea-houses are 
quaintly attractive, and a week's time would hardly serve to make one 
familiar with its saHent features ; but the lack of a comfortable hotel causes 
a curtailment of time which the visitor would otherwise allot to such an 
extremely interesting city. 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



79 



NARA. 




A VISIT to Nara {^Nah-rah) may be crowded into one day by taking the 
train at six in the morning from the Minatocho {Me-nah-tocho) station^ 
located in the vicinity of the Nanda. Two hours are occupied in 
covering the twenty-five miles run ; and upon arrival jinrikishas 
should be taken to the Musachino inn, where breakfast in semi-foreign style 
can be procured, the time occupied in its preparation being profitably em- 
ployed in inspecting the pretty park in which the inn is located. 

By a path descending the hill from the inn, and down a series of steps, an 
assemblage of shops are passed where are sold toys, horns, etc. ; the only 
other special article made in Nara being India ink. 

A little to the left, after passing through a small temple, a pretty wooded 
grove, and up an avenue of stone lanterns, we approach the main temple of 
Kasuga {Kah-soo-gaJi). The bright red of the temple buildings, within a 
grove of magnificent cryptomeria trees, recalled somewhat similar surround- 
ings at Nikko, while the added novelty of numberless brass lanterns sus- 
pended from the edifices lent a new charm to the scene. Through further 
rows of stone lanterns, on the right, is the temple of Wakamiya {Wah-kah- 
77iee-yah), where, within one of its outbuildings, some girls arrayed in Zouave 
trousers and white blouses, to the music (?) furnished by two or three 
priests, perform, for one yen each, a dance called Kagura. The dance con- 
sists of graceful figures and posturings, accompanied by the movements of 
fans and bells. We should have enjoyed the dance better had the thick 
coating of whiting been washed from the faces of the girls. 



So JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

The Shinto Temple of Hachiman is reached by retracing our steps to the 
inn, and thence through a fine growth of maples, with which the edifice is 
surrounded. Although the building is greatly out of repair, the combination 
of its white and red colors with the green foliage is very attractive. A little 
farther on are the temples of Shi-gwatsu-do {Shee-gah-tsoo-doK) and San- 
gwatsu-do {San-gah-tsoo-doK)., only of interest as representing past centuries, 
for the hand of man has not for years been extended to their repair or 
adornment. 

A short distance beyond, and reached by ascending a number of stone 
steps, is the temple of Ni-gwatsu-do {Nee-gah-tsoo-doh). curiously built on 
the side of the hill, with its front and sides supported by piles or crib-work. 
This building is in fairly good repair, and from a long outside gallery a fine 
view of the town of Nara is had. 

Passing down this gallery we reach the great copper bell of Todaiji 
{Toh-di-jee), which is nearly fourteen feet high, and weighs thirty-eight 
tons ; and still farther down the hill we enter the enormous building which 
contains the bronze figure of Buddha, said to be six feet higher than the 
Dai-Butsu at Kamakura. 

Excepting in name this image is totally dissimilar to any of those we had 
previously seen. The black face, with its distended nostrils and puffed 
cheeks, suggests rather an African cast of countenance ; but this may be 
owing to departures from the original model while undergoing repairs, for 
we are told that between the year 750, when the image was first completed, 
and 1570, the head was three times burnt off and fell to the ground. While 
the Kamakura figure shows both hands resting upon the knees, that of Nara 
has the right arm extended upward, with the palm of the hand to the front. 

On the right and left of the Dai-Butsu are images nearly eighteen feet 
high, built in modern times, and placed in their present positions, doubtless, 
with the shrewd idea that their known height yet diminutive appearance in 
contrast with the central figure would lend enormity to the main attraction. 

The building in which the figure is located in itself excites our wonder, 
notwithstanding its dilapidated condition. Built in 17 10, the image it now 
shelters having been for nearly a thousand years exposed to the elements, it 
is over one hundred and fifty feet high, three hundred feet long, and one 
hundred and seventy-five feet deep. It already shows the ravages of time 
and need of reconstruction ; and in this respect it is surprising how quickly 
objects only one or two hundred years old become in our minds associated 
with the near past, as we see everywhere in Japan the results of labor of the 
eighth and ninth centuries. 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



A veritable museum of curiosities, consisting of statues, swords, pottery, 
masks, woven and embroidered cloths, carvings and pictures, caused us to 
regret that engagements previously made prevented more than a passing 
glance at the many objects of interest. 

A short distance below is the temple of Kobukuji {Koh-boo-koo-jee\ with 
two picturesque pagodas and several interesting outlying buildings, one of 
which, called the Nan-endo, containing two large figures of the Goddess of 
Mercy, is octagonal in form. 

Aside from the pretty little lake with its pagoda view, which is best seen 
from the opposite side of the water, the foregoing embraces the principal 
sights of the place. 

The early afternoon train brings us back to Osaka at three o'clock ; and 
as our heavy baggage has gone on to Kobe (from Kioto) we have ample 
time to take another look in the shops, and to get the five o'clock train from 
the Imperial Railway station, which lands us at the Sanomiya station in 
Kobe about six o'clock. 



82 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



KOBE. 




.^^H 
' ^««i««'™^ 



KOBE, the commercial rival of Yokohama, and one of the five treaty- 
ports, is a city of one hundred and thirty-five thousand inhabitants ; 
and while the proportion of resident foreigners is not so great as in 
the last named place, foreign ideas and language seem to have taken 
root and spread to a greater extent. This is evidenced by the fact that more 
or less English is spoken in almost every Japanese shop here. 

The situation of the city is very fine. From the edge of the really 
beautiful harbor, along which it is built, for nearly three miles is a level a 
quarter of a mile in width, upon which the foreign settlement is built ; and 
from thence a gradual slope, on which are the residences, is maintained to 
the foot of the rugged but picturesque chain of mountains, which form the 
background and reach a height of two thousand five hundred feet. Even 
the face of this range is dotted with fine foreign houses. 

To the west of the " settlement " lies the Japanese native town, extending 
to the Minatogawa {Mee-nah-toh-gah-wah) River, dividing Hiogo {Hyoh-goh) 
from Kobe. The banks of the river are lined with pine trees, along which 
are well-kept walks leading to several temples and 07te more Dai-Butsu. 

The principal bridge connecting the two cities is at the end of Moto- 
Machi, the leading business street of the native town. In this street curio 
shops abound ; but that known as " Hari-shin's " contains more old stock 
than any one establishment in the country, from any desired kind of a god 
to suits of armor, pagodas, stone lanterns, swords, old and new porcelains, 
embroideries, lacquers, copper and bronzes. But the special purchasable 
novelty of Kobe is bamboo ware, — bamboo curtains, baskets, cabinets, 
tables, chairs, furniture, and knick-knacks generally. The visitor will do 



JAPAiV AS WE SAW IT. 



well to avoid purchasing the large articles of bamboo, for they are almost 
sure to fall apart when subjected to the steam or furnace heat of our 
American houses. 

The Kobe Club, maintained by the foreign residents, has the finest club 
building in Japan, its reading and billiard rooms being models of comfort 
and convenience. Files of American and English papers here delighted the 
heart of the wanderer, for, since leaving Yokohama, no news from the outer 
world had been received. 







Kobe- ' 

Kobe possesses three foreign hotels, — the Oriental, the Hiogo, and the 
Colonies ; and if the two latter are one half as comfortable and as well kept 
as the Oriental (which there is no reason to doubt), they merit the patronage 
they receive. 

Mrs. G. was very enthusiastic over her visit to the kindergarten school 
managed by Miss Annie Howe, who, impelled by the highest motives, left 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



her comfortable home in New Hampshire to take up educational work 
among the Japanese. Native graduates from her training school preside 
over the classes in the Kindergarten, besides establishing similar schools in 
other places. 

Twenty minutes by jinrikisha through the eastern part of the city takes 
us to the Nunobiki iNoo-noh-bee-kee) waterfalls. From the jinrikisha stopping 
place we follow a path along the edge of a gorge to the first, or "Woman," 
fall, a pretty cascade forty-three feet high. Passing through the tea-house 
fronting it, and across a little bridge, we wind around and up the hill to the 
" Man's " fall, eighty feet high, where, at a tea-house, a cup of tea is served. 
From a hill quite near the fall a good view of Kobe is had. 

Numerous fine walks abound near Kobe, nearly all of them leading up 
the mountains back of the town. That to Maya-san {Mah-yah-san\ near the 
top of which stands the Maya-Bunin temple, built in the sixth century, is 
chiefly interesting from the fact that it is the highest mountain behind the 
town. 

Takarazuka {Tah'kah-rah-zoo-kah\ ten miles by the Imperial Government 
Railway, to Nishinomiya {Nee-shee-noh-7nee-yah) station, and thence about 
four miles by jinrikisha, should not be omitted from the trips about Kobe; 
for, aside from the usual excellence of the food served in the foreign hotel 
located there, the mineral baths and general attractive surroundings of the 
place well repay the visitor for the time expended. 

The lover of old temples may gratify his taste in that direction, for in the 
vicinity of Kobe and Hiogo there are several within easy walk or ride. 

Travellers having letters of introduction to foreign or "high class" native 
residents of the city are sure to be cordially received, for in no city in Japan 
does hospitality abound to such an extent ; therefore it need not be con- 
sidered strange that we spent seven days in and about Kobe. 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 85 



ISLANDS OF K^NP^IY AND SHIKOKU. 

HAVING determined upon a trip through the Islands of Awaji {Ah- 
wah-jee) and Shikoku {She-kokoo), we assumed that there would be 
numbers of persons in Kobe from whom we could get information 
regarding roads, inns, etc. ; but to our surprise not one of those whom 
we met had ever travelled there. Finally we were referred to a missionary 
who had been in Awaji some time previous, from whom we were able to 
learn a little. 

Reducing our baggage to the contents of a Japanese " Yanagi-gori," or 
wicker basket, resembhng in shape the canvas " extension " used in the 
United States, and packing another with fresh bread, biscuits, meat, cold 
fowl, prepared coffee, canned milk, butter, knives and forks, and spoons, we 
took the half-past six morning train from the Hiogo station of the Sanyo 
Railway for Akashi {Ah-kah-shee\ eleven miles distant, the track following 
the seashore and passing by the summer retreats of wealthy foreigners and 
Japanese. 

Upon leaving the train at Akashi, jinrikishas take us through the village 
to the "hatoba" {]iah-tobah\ or boat landing, where we embarked upon a 
sampan for a passage across the straits to the northern point of Awaji, a 
distance of five miles ; not, however, before our passport had been shown, 
at the instance of a local officer. Two boatmen, with long flexible sweeps 
fastened near the stern of the boat on either side, propel the sampan by a 
" sculling " motion, and promise to land us in an hour ; but it is two hours 
before we touch the beach at the village of Awaya {Ah-wah-yah), a mile 
beyond the lighthouse point, and then only after our holding out the induce- 
ment of a ten sen present to each boatman. 

While our boy was engaging '' strong " coolies and jinrikishas for the 
journey, we stood within the entrance of the very dirty inn on the narrow 
main street, in front of which apparently the whole town had swarmed to 
gaze at us, so great a curiosity was a foreigner to these people. 

With two coolies drawing each vehicle, one between the shafts and a 
second ten feet ahead with the noose of a rope around his shoulder, we 
hurried through the village and up a rough hilly road, immediately after 
coming upon an excellent highway, which we held thereafter throughout the 



S6 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



day's ride. The road, just wide enough for two jinrikishas, follows the 
seashore all the way along the east coast of the island, curving inward or 
outward as the sea forms coves or promontories ; sometimes only twenty 
feet above the surf, and again rising to a height of two hundred feet, yet 

always so near to the ocean that a 



stone can be tossed into the water. 




'Jlroadioe>ui\°to- 



mountains loom above, broken 
every few miles by villages nestling 
on the hillside, or rice-fields cover- 
ing little valleys. Some of the 
stone bridges crossing the moun- 
; tain streams date back to the thir- 
~ 1 teenth century, and are marvels of 

masonry and artistic curves. 
Through the villages of Kariya {Kah-ree-yah\ 
Sano {Sah-noh\ and Shidzuki {Shee-dzoo-kee), 
our cooHes keep up their run, the perspiration 

trickling from their faces and necks down over their naked bodies, and, 

excepting when ascending hills, a walking gait is not assumed. And so we 

bowl along this picturesque road over the twenty-four miles into Sumoto 

{Soo-moh-toh) in four hours and ten minutes. The 

town is not seen until we round a projecting cliff a 

mile or more distant from it, where, from a height 

of several hundred feet, we look down upon its solid 

mass of houses lying in a basin scooped out among 

the mountains which enclose it on three sides. 

At the Nabeto {Nah-bay-tok) inn we come to a 

halt, take off our shoes in the entrance way, and 

ascend the steep polished stairs to a room overlook- 
ing the street. The usual bustling preparations for 

our reception are apparent. " Fusuma," or paper 

slides, brought from some other part of the inn, are 

run into grooves cut in the wooden beam which 

depends from the ceiling, making two rooms out of 

the large one into which we are at first ushered. 

The "yu" (hot bath) is shortly announced as "ready," and the writer, in 

kimono and sandals, follows the serving girl to the little bamboo enclosure 

in which it is located 




/.va'-JSat// 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



87 



fresh-caught fish 



If a puncheon, or large barrel, were sawn in two through its greatest 
circumference, and in the half to be used a longitudinal piece of eight by 
sixteen inches were cut out near the bottom, and in this space a deep copper 
pan in which to burn charcoal were inserted, you have the bath-tub of the 
ordinary inn ; and to the tired traveller the water at a temperature of one 
hundred to one hundred and ten degrees is a complete restorer 
of vigor. 

Meanwhile, Shimid had secured a fine, 
and broiled it over the " kamado " {kah-mah-doh\ or kitchen 
fire, which, with bread, coffee, and canned butter, was served 
to us by the girl waitress, while we sat upon the silk cushions 
on the floor mats. 

As darkness came on, " andon," or paper lanterns, mounted 
on a wooden frame three feet high, with lighted lamp inside, 
were brought in. The outside wooden shutters, or " amado " 
{ah-7nah-doh\ which during the daytime are all in a wooden 
case at one end of the balcony, are slid along into position 
until the fading twilight is entirely shut out from the room, 
paper slides are then closed, an " hibachi," or warming pot, with its burning 
charcoal, is brought in and set before us, and, excepting laying the bed, we 
are supposed to be made comfortable for the night. 

The Japanese bed consists of six, eight, or ten " futon " {foo-ton), or 
bed-quilts, often made of silk with eider-down or 
cotton fiUing. These are laid on the floor upon each 
other, the upper or head end being in front of the 




The front 




Kakemono hanging in the niche, referred to in our 
visit to Mrs. M.'s at Shinagawa. The occupant 
may sleep under one or more "futon," according to 
the temperature; but of course the more one has 
over him the less soft the bed is. 

The Japanese " makura " {mah-koo-rah\ or wooden 
pillow covered with layers of rice-paper, on which 
the neck instead of the head is laid, is never 
attempted by foreigners ; for, as in our case, the 
inflated rubber pillow affords some degree of comfort, and, after a few trials, 
makes a very fair head-rest. During the warm months the traveller should 
take along sheets of "abura-kami" {ah-boo-rah-kah-Tnee\ or oiled paper, to 
lay above and beneath the body, to secure exemption from fleas or vermin 
while sleeping ; and a quantity of flea-powder will be found useful. 



88 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



Lack of ventilation in the Japanese room cannot be raised as a question 
for criticism, for, although the outside wooden shutters and inside paper 
screens at night effectually shut out the air from the street front, the open 
scroll work or latticed openings above the screen partitions toward the 
interior court afford all the ventilation required, at least in cold weather. 
Not infrequently, also, similar openings exist above the paper partitions 
dividing adjoining rooms, which is an advantage provided the next room 
occupant is not addicted to the common habit of indulging in frequent 
smokes during the night, which invariably terminate with rapping the pipe 
bowl on the hibachi's edge to remove the remaining ashes. When the 
hibachi is of copper, a resonant sound, trying to the nerves of the foreigner, 
pervades the whole institution ; and if several smokers 
happen to be fellow-lodgers, only sheer exhaustion 
will result in a whole night's rest. 

The chances are that before one is fairly awake 
a girl, pushing aside a paper screen (for there are no 
fastenings), enters the room with a cup of tea and a 
sweet cake, while another creates an unearthly clatter 
by sliding the outside shutters into their "day box"; 
^and when it is remembered that similar action is 
going on at every house in the neighborhood, all 
thought of a " beauty nap " may be abandoned. 
The morning ablutions are performed in a copper wash-bowl, which stands 
on a wooden shelf in an adjoining corridor, unless the bath-tub is again re- 
sorted to ; and the traveller is always required to furnish soap and towels. 

It will be sufficient to say that the " chodzuba " {cho-dzoo-bah), or toilet 
closet, encountered in the interior inn differs in every particular from our 
modern adoptions. As a rule, however, the natural cleanliness prevailing 
with a people who bathe at least once, and not infrequently three and four 
times, a day, extends to their domestic surroundings ; yet the foreign visitor 
is surprised to learn that the hundreds and thousands of coolies met in the 
streets and upon every road, carrying buckets suspended on the ends of 
yoke-sticks, are the scavengers of Japan making their daily collections of 




%PANES^ 

tlLLOVv a 



It would certainly seem that an otherwise cleanly people would have 
adopted sanitary systems saving the atmosphere from pollution; but when it 
is stated, and we believe with truth, that the Japanese olfactory organs are 
impervious to odors, one reason for pursuing their old-time custom in the 
particular mentioned may be apparent. 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



The average charge for foreigners, at inns or tea-houses, is seventy-five 
sen per person for supper, lodging, and breakfast, with a fee, or " tea-money," 
of twenty-five sen for two, for service rendered ; and although the inn food 
may not be consumed, the use of the inn kitchen for preparing foreign food 
is regarded as a fair offset. 

Sumoto's only specialty is the orange grown in the vicinity, and the 
orange paste, or marmalade, prepared from the fruit ; but the delightful 
situation of the place will be recognized. 

A stroll through shop streets is attended with the following at our heels 
of curious crowds of natives, who never seem to tire of watching us, although 
a police officer endeavors at intervals to 
relieve us of their attentions. 

Shortly after breakfast we resume our 
jinrikishas en route to Fukura {Foo-koo- 
rah\ twelve miles hence over the moun- 
tains, stopping on the way at Igano {Ee- 
gah-no\ a little off the main road, and 
three or four miles from Fukura, where 
are two potteries in which the once cele- 
brated Awaji ware is made. Most of it is 
highly colored, but the coloring lacks 
the artistic blending and softness which 
we later on find in Kyushu {Kyoo-shod). 
Half an hour can be advantageously spent 
here in noting the processes of grinding, 
moulding, baking, and ornamenting. 

From the keeper of the Idzuma {Ee- 
dzoo-jnah) inn in Fukura we engage a 
boat and boatman to take us along the coast of the mainland, from whence 
we can witness the violent rush of waters through the Naruto {Nah-roo-toh) 
channel, separating Awaji from the island of Shikoku. The breadth of the 
passage is about one and a quarter miles, and through it rushes and tumbles 
a seething mass of water, in which even the largest junk could not safely be 
navigated when the spring tides give the greatest turbulence and velocity. 

From Fukura to Muki {J\foo-kee\ or Muya, as it is frequently called, on 
the island of Shikoku, we take a sailing boat across the strait below the 
Naruto channel, a distance of six and a half miles, which is covered in one 
hour. As the inn at Muki is inferior, we engage coolies and jinrikishas and 
press on down the coast to Tokushima {Toh-koo-shee-mah) over a good and 




NN L-AVATORY 



90 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



picturesque road, an approximate distance of twelve miles, where, at the 
Hiragame {Hee-rah-gah-may) inn, we find excellent accommodations. 

Tokushima (sixty thousand inhabitants), said to be the finest town on the 
island, is well worthy of a visit, if only to see the handsomest women in 
Japan, for which the province of Awa is noted. Taller in stature and with 
more rounded limbs than most of those we have seen, their clear-cut profiles, 
long eyelashes, and finely-shaped mouths, together with their almost olive 
complexions, render them exceedingly attractive. 

The city is situated on the Yoshimo-gawa River, about two miles from 

the seashore, and possesses two temples and the remains of a castle. From 

the hill back of Tokushima a magnificent view of the 

city, the sea of Kishi {Kee-shee), and the island of Awaji, 

from whence we have come, is afforded. 

Leaving Tokushima about mid-day, two coolies to 
each jinrikisha, we take the coast road for Tomioka 
{Toh-mee-oh-kah\ fifteen miles distant. Travellers fol- 
lowing this course must take care that the coolies do 
not succeed in taking a second or interior road, which 
lacks the boldness and rock features of that next the 
sea. Rows of tall, graceful pine-trees lend beauty to this 
road, while the way itself, like that leading to Sumoto, 
follows the indentations of the coast around pretty bays, 
or winds along a mountain side to and around some 
projecting point, and then down long declines until 
another level is reached. 

The few hours of daylight left is sufiicient for Tomi- 
oka ; therefore, after a night at the Tosa {Toh-sah) inn, with fair accommo- 
dations, we resume our journey early next morning toward Kochi {Koh-chee), 
about ninety-five miles distant. After passing through Hiwase {He-wah-s'ay) 
the road follows the coast all the way for twenty-five miles. 

Just after passing the boundary line of the province of Awa we reach the 
hamlet of None, where, leaving the main road, we turn due west and follow 
a cross road for seventeen miles, until we again strike the seacoast near 
Nahari, thus effecting a saving of seventeen or eighteen rniles against the 
main highway by Tsuro, near Cape Murodo. Upon reaching Akoako {Ah- 
koah-ko\ twelve miles from our destination, we again bear inland for the 
balance of the way into Kochi. 

This route from Tomioka to Kochi requires two long days of hard travel. 
The inns along the coast are poor ; and while the scenery is grand the tired 




RuOM GlKL. 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



91 



body causes a lessening of the powers of appreciation. The coolies begin 
to "lag," and while promises of " shinjo," or present money, excite to tem- 
porary efforts, the fact that they are tired is constantly apparent; and they 
are not more relieved than ourselves when we alight 
at the door of the Emmei-ken {Em-may-ken) inn at 
Kochi. 

Mistakes are often discovered when it is too late to 
remedy them. We made ours in passing beyond Toku- 
shima; for had we there turned about, and at Muki re- 
crossed to Fukura and followed back the west coast of 
the island of Awaji, we would have saved the long ride 
to Kochi, and seen (according to later accounts) fully as 
interesting a country. 

Kochi is the capital of the island of Shikoku, with a 
population of thirty-three thousand inhabitants, and is 
situated at the head of an inlet three miles from the 
sea. It is a busy, wide-awake place, and has earned the 
reputation, within recent years, of being the scene of 
more political " rows " than any place in Japan. Most 
of the public buildings are of foreign style, and it pos- 
sesses the usual quota of temples, tea-houses, and shops, 
— and a theatre. Articles made of coral are the pur- 
chasable novelties, many of them being examples of 
artistic skill ; and they are sold very cheap. 

The Japanese steamer " Toshin-maru " was announced 
to sail for Kobe on the second day of our stay in Kochi, and, although the 
accommodations were poor, we were glad to accept them and pay the five 
yen passage money, feeling that seventeen hours would land us where 
European beds and food could be enjoyed as luxuries. 




g2 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



THE INLAND SEA. 

STEAMERS of the " Nippon Yusen Kwaisha," or Japanese Steamship 
Company, starting from Yokohama and stopping at Kobe, make weekly 
passages through the Inland Sea and around to Nagasaki. Steamships 
belonging to the North German Lloyd's Line will also be found adver- 
tised for the trip, which they do not make with any degree of regularity. 

We had secured passage on the " Saikio Maru " {Si-kyoh-Mah-roo\ com- 
manded by Capt. George W. Connor, a native of Cambridge, Mass., one of 
the Japanese Company's fleet of fifty-eight steamships which ply in every 
direction the waters surrounding Japan, reaching the Chinese ports of 
Hong-Kong and Shanghai ; Tiensen, Jinsen, Fusan, and Gensan in Korea, 
and Vladivostock in Russian Siberia. 

The administration of the company is purely Japanese, the directors 
being, with one exception, natives of the flowery kingdom, whose manage- 
ment of affairs result in the division of nine per cent annual dividend upon 
the eleven million yen capital. 

The "Saikio Maru" and ''Kobe Maru," the latest additions to the fleet, 
are certainly fine specimens of marine architecture. With the exception of 
the commanders (usually Englishmen) the officers and crew are Japanese 
and Chinese ; and the attendance, table service, and luxurious fittings of the 
cabins cannot be excelled. Electric lights, superb baths, excellent spring 
beds, and open tiled fire-places contribute to the comfort and homelike 
qualities of these ships. 

Nearly all the servants are Chinese boys from Foochow or Canton, whose 
rapid acquirement of English is only a little more remarkable than the 
manner in which they use it. Asking our room boy one morning " What 
time?" (what o'clock) he rephed, '• Sleben quartle," meaning quarter past 
seven, because he put the seven before the quarter. In a few moments he 
returned, and, having discovered that it lacked some minutes of the hour, 
said, " Sleben he not come yet." 

Their difficulty of expressing the difference between masculine and 
feminine gender is shown by such questions as " Missee (Missus), he want 
tlea (tea) ? " But we found them to be excellent servants, willing and atten- 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



93 



tive at any hour of night or day, and possessing such retentive memories or 
imitative tendencies that, having once been shown how to do a thing, it 
would always be done just that way. 

The steamers usually sail from Kobe at daylight in the morning, so that 
passengers going on board the night previous find themselves before break- 
fast time in the Sea of Harima, one of the five bodies of water into which 
the Inland Sea is divided. 

The course thence from the anchorage at Kobe has been to and around 
Wada Point, the southwestern limit of the harbor of Kobe, through Akashi 
Strait, separating the island of Awaji from the mainland, where the Harima 
Nada, or Harima Sea, is entered. Immediately after rounding the 
point of Awaji a southwesterly course is taken until the island of 
Shodo-shima {Shodo-sheemak) lies on the right, with the northern 
point of the island of Shikoku on the left ; and it is here we reach 
the deck in time to watch the vessel's course through the first inter- 
esting passage. Shortly 
Takamatsu {Tah-kah-inah- 
tsoo), a town of thirty thou- 
sand inhabitants, comes in 
view ; and a little farther, 
on the other side, the chff 
island of Okishima {Oh- ^ 
kee-shee-mah) looms up. 

From here the neces- 
sity of a thorough knowl- 
edge of the channel, amid 
the numberless reefs and 
islands, becomes apparent by the continuous and rapid movements of the 
ship from one side to another ; and at times it seems as though the course 
were barred, so thickly is the passage strewn with islets rising from the sea 
about us. The rush of the tide through the narrow channels, heehng the 
ship from port to starboard, and again from starboard to port, adds to the 
excitement of the situation. 

Thus for three hours we thread our way until Tadotsu {Tah-doh-tss), a 
town of twenty thousand inhabitants, can be seen on the left; and shortly 
after we pass an outstretched finger of Shikoku, and enter the Bingo Nada, or 
Bingo Sea. Taking the southern passage, we soon find ourselves between 
two islands, whose precipitous sides rise straight from the water, and beyond 
groups of smaller islands dot the course. 




94 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



After sighting Imahari we turn sharp to the north, following the coast of 
Shikoku until the island of Os\vim2i{0-shee-mah)\'s> on the right, where begins 
a second trial of brains and steam against the power of water. Every pound 
of pressure is necessary to stem the tide, which at times has a velocity of six 
or eight miles per hour; and as we enter a passage only two hundred and 
fifty feet wide, it seems that the ship must be thrown against the rocks 

Villages are constantly coming in sight along the shores ; and one seen 
just ahead will in -a few moments be on our beam, and in another minute, 
by the rapid swerving of the ship, it is seen directly astern. 

The archipelago dotting the Bingo Nada is finally left behind, and we 
enter the comparatively open sea of lyo (Ee-yoh), after which we traverse the 
^"^ Suwo Nada, an open body of water upward of forty miles long, 
until, about midnight, the anchor is dropped close to the town of 
Moji {Moh-jee\ with Shimonoseki {Shee-moh-noh- 
say-kee) on the opposite side of the channel. This 
is the western end of the Inland Sea, two 
hundred and thirty-nine miles, or twenty 
hours, from Kobe. 

Writers are apt to be unduly 
enthusiastic over scenery and 
pleasant experiences in countries 
other than their own, therefore 
KiNTAiKYo Bash I- ^g ^ygj-g prepared to discount the 

glowing descriptions of the Inland Sea previously read; but having seen 
its beauties under the most favorable conditions, — viz., fine weather and 
from a powerful vessel's deck, — we are ready to join the enthusiasts so 
far as believing that were it possible to multiply Lake George (admittedly 
the most picturesque of our American inland lakes) until the area equalled 
that of the Inland Sea, the latter's varied attractions would still hold the 
comparative relation of a superlative gem to an ordinary diamond. 

Moji, in front of which we anchor, is the northern end of the Kyushu 
Railway, at present terminating on the south at Kumamoto {Koo-mah-moto), 
The line runs through the coal section of Japan, the greater part of the 
product being brought by railway to Moji, where it is loaded into lighters 
and towed alongside the steamships. 

From the moment of anchoring — about midnight — until six or seven next 
morning a perfect pandemonium reigns on either side of the ship. Each coal 
lighter is " manned " by a gang of male and female coolies, who, with shallow 
round baskets holding perhaps half a bushel, transfer the coal to the ship's 




JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 95 

bunkers, passing the filled baskets from hand to hand, the empty baskets 
being thrown back into the lighter without much regard as to striking a 
coolie. The half-naked, coal-begrimed creatures, with perspiration pouring 
down their faces and bodies, never cease their good-natured chatter and 
chaff, while a basket hitting one of their number on the head is hailed as an 
amusing feature. Twelve sen (say eight and a half cents) per coolie is the 
compensation allowed for the six or seven hours' work. 

Shimonoseki, on the west side of the strait, is only of interest from an 
historical standpoint. During the Shogunate period, in 1863, when provinces 
were ruled as petty monarchies, the Daimio {Di-myoh) of Choshiu, at Shimo- 
noseki, opened fire, without authority of the General Government, upon 
vessels flying the American, French, and Dutch flags. Reparation being 
demanded and refused, a fleet of war-ships of the three insulted nations, 
together with those of England, bombarded Shimonoseki, and followed it up 
by compelling the Japanese Government to pay a money indemnity of three 
million silver dollars to the combined nations. 

American statesmen, foremost among whom was Charles Sumner, were 
gradually led to believe that, in view of the Japanese Government's disavowal 
of the Daimio's action, and the fact that at the time the country was in a state 
of semi-revolution, the destruction of the town was a punishment that should 
not have been inflicted by powerful nations upon a weak one ; and that to- 
afterward enforce a money indemnity at the muzzle of guns was not honor- 
able to the United States, or in consonance with the treatment due a friendly 
people. A bill to refund the amount was introduced in the American 
Congress, and laid over from year to year, but was finally passed and the 
amount repaid to Japan. It is to be regretted that this example was not 
followed by the other nations. 

Had we followed the route originally proposed and laid down in our 
passport, we should have left the steamer at Moji, and proceeded by railway 
to Kumamoto, a journey of about eight hours ; but representations made to 
us while in Kobe as to bad cars, uninteresting country, and on the whole the 
desirability of reaching Kumamoto and beyond from Nagasaki, caused a 
change of programme which we afterward regretted. 

At eight in the morning the steamer was again under way, passing 
through the Straits of Shimonoseki and out into the Sea of Genkai {Gen-ki). 
The mainland and outlying islands, continuously in sight on the left all the 
way down to Nagasaki, are very rugged and bold, with mountain chains and 
peaks standing behind. Villages lying in the shore indentations are seen 
from time to time, while fleets of fishing-junks are constantly in sight. 



96 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



For about ninety miles from Shimonoseki, or until reaching the long, 
narrow island of Hirado {Hee-rah-doh\ a westerly wind causes the open 
water on our right to make what sailors call " a hubbly sea," sending most of 
the passengers to their cabins. 

Upon nearing Hirado a narrow passage, called Spex Straits, opens up 
between the island and the mainland, which, under certain conditions of tide, 
may safely be navigated by large steamers ; but the captains of the Nippon 

Yusen vessels are by the company's orders 
■ ■- ,, prohibited from using it, therefore we go 

through Obori Channel, with the island of 
Ikutsuki {Ee-koo4so€-kee) on our right and 
Hirado on the left. 

In succession we pass Nakanoshima 
{Nah-kah-noh'shee-mah) island, just below 
Hirado ; the Goto group, lying away out 
at sea, Mitoko {Mee-toh-koh) on the land 
side, and Odate {Oh-dah-tay) and Kodate 
{Koh-dah-tay) on the right. The island of 
Matsushima {^Mah-isoo-shee-inah\ or Pine 
Island, with its terraced and cultivated face, 
Ikeshima {Ee-kay-shee-mah) and Hikishima {Hee-kee-shee-mah) loom like 
sentinels guarding the coast, before the wonderful arched rock on the right 
comes in sight. 

From this point to the island gems dotting the entrance to Nagasaki the 
scenery is really beautiful, while the narrow, winding channel through which 
we pass to reach the harbor is worthy the brush of any artist. Anchor is 
dropped off Nagasaki at eight in the evening, exactly twelve hours, or one 
hundred and forty-seven miles, from Shimonoseki. 

From the ship's deck a unique night scene covers the location of 
Nao-asaki; for, while the shadow cast upon it by the mountain background 
renders even the outhnes of its buildings indiscernible, the contour of the 
harbor, the streets running at right angle with the water's edge, and the 
entire face of the range are covered by a myriad of lights. Those in 
the foreground shine brightly through the darkness, but back of these a 
oradual lessening of intensity indicates distance and height, until a few 
feeble rays, apparently suspended above the town, mark where the mountain 
top blends with the sky. With such a scene spread out before us we prefer- 
ably remained on board till morning, particularly as in so doing we were saved 
the inconvenience of a night transfer in open sampan to the landing wharf. 




JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



97 



NAGASAKI AND VICINITY. 

NAGASAKI, containing fifty-live thousand inhabitants, lies on the east 
side of its harbor. The foreign settlement extends along the water 
front for nearly half a mile, the water boulevard being named " The 
Bund," upon which are located the custom-house, telegraph office, 
bank agencies, business places of foreign merchants, and the offices of all 
foreign consulates excepting that of the United States, which office is at the 
residence of the consul on a hill to the ridit of the town. 




-I> \c/^<Fi^a^/'' 



Accredited travellers are welcomed to the Nagasaki Club, a comfortable, 
homelike institution upon the Bund, where, after business hours, representa- 
tive foreign residents of various nationalities assemble for social amusement. 

Through the courtesy of Mr. J. J. Ouin, the British consul at Nagasaki, 
the privileges of the club were tendered and gladly accepted, and the 
acquaintance was here formed of the several gentlemen who, as consuls, 
serve respectively the interests of France, Germany, Norway and Sweden, 
the Netherlands, etc. 



98 JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 

To the American who observes the condition of diplomatic representation 
in the East, it must become apparent that his own country, from a business 
standpoint, is oftentimes handicapped. Not that the personel is inferior to 
that of our commercial rivals, but from the fact that the periodical displace- 
ment of our representatives occur when they are best equipped to practically 
advance the interests they represent. Great Britain, for example, has a 
diplomatic school constantly in session. Young men of education, whose 
relatives or influential friends are or were in the service, receive appointments 
as consular clerks. If they evince the necessary aptitude, promotion to 
consulates at comparatively unimportant places follows ; and so they move 
upward as promotions or vacancies occur in better places. Meantime they 
are learning the language of the country, becoming conversant with the laws 
and treaties, and studying the commercial requirements and products of the 
people they are among. They become familiar with every phase of consular 
and commercial life, and are, in point of fact, commercial agents for Great 
Britain's manufactures. So long as their personal reputations are maintained, 
and their official duties are performed satisfactorily, they have no fear of being 
superseded through changes of administration. 

The American representative, on the other hand, is too often appointed 
through political influence, or as a reward for pohtical service. He goes to a 
country of whose language, laws, treaties, exports or imports he knows 
nothing. If dihgent and ambitious to succeed, he begins the study of these 
particulars, and by the time he has become even fairly familiar with them 
an overturning of his political party, or changes wathin his party, usually 
results in his place being awarded to another who has rendered later partisan 
service, and who in turn spends the greater part of his term reaching the 
point where his predecessor left off. This is politics and not business. 

The Bellevue Hotel and Cook's Hotel, both for foreign entertainment, 
are close to the Bund, the former being in the most eligible location and 
receiving the best patronage. 

On the left of the foreign settlement the Japanese town commences, and 
extends for nearly two miles ; and immediately above it, on the face of the 
hill or mountain, is the cemetery, where, amid the quaintly inscribed tomb- 
stones and columns, white-robed priests, bearing their banners and insignia, 
may often be seen performing rehgious ceremonies. 

To the right of the cemetery, and reached by a gradually ascending road 
from the town, the whole side of the hill is covered with the queer tile-roofed 
houses of the natives. The traveller who has read Pierre Loti's Madame 
Chrysantheme will recognize this location as the one chosen for the abiding- 



JAPAN- AS WE SAW IT. 



99 



place of himself and his heroine. Upon this road stands the O'Suwa 
{C Soowah\ or Bronze Horse Temple, with its approach of countless stone 
steps, pretty garden, inferior temple building, fine bronze figure of a horse, 







and magfiificent view of the town and harbor beneath, with the factory and 
dockyard on the opposite side of the harbor. 

Fine views are also had from the summit of "Venus Hill," so called from 
the fact that it was used by a party of American scientists from which to 
observe the transit of Venus in 1874. A road passing the side gate of the 



lOO JAPAN- AS WE SAW IT. 

Bellevue Hotel leads over and along the bluffs, upon which the best foreign 
residences are located. It can be traversed by jinrikisha for its entire 
length, and affords remarkable outlooks over the harbor, in which lay at 
anchor the war-ships and merchant vessels of nearly all maritime nations. 

Coming to a series of steps on the side of the hill to our left we alight, 
and, passing through a narrow and not over cleanly native lan«, reach the 
foot of the steps and make the ascent to where a torii marks the approach to 
an old and uninteresting temple. From this point, looking seaAvard through 
the Pappenberg narrows, a scene of wonderful natural beauty is presented. 
The narrows formed by the high cliffs on either side, the islands dotting 
the outer entrance, and the bright green sea beyond, make an exceedingly 
attractive picture. 

The shop streets of Nagasaki are very much the same as those in every 
town we have visited, with the singular exception that many of the thorough- 
fares have flagstone " sidewalks " in the middle of the streets. 

At the tortoise-shell shops of Ezaki {Ay-zah-kee) in Yunomachi and 
Sakata in Kago-machi, articles of ornament and utility in every conceivable 
form are made and sold, and these constitute the chief purchasable novelty 
of Nagasaki. At the silk stores of Fujise in Hamano-machi, and Shimase 
in the same street, Chinese and Japanese fabrics, in a variety of delicate 
and novel styles, are found ; and unless travellers intend going to China 
(Shanghai being but thirty-two hours from Nagasaki) many of the silk 
specialties from that country can be bought here. 

A visit to the bazaar called " Deshima " occupies an evening to advantage, 
for among the other interesting things seen are extensive displays of the 
various crockery and porcelain productions of the province, the manufacture 
of which we see later on in Arita and other places. Mess & Co.'s foreign 
store, in the Settlement, contains as fine a display of Japanese curios and 
works of art as we had thus far seen, while at the shops of Sato, Ikeshima, 
and Neshida, in the native town, some queer things in the way of curios may 
be picked up. 

Throughout the journey thus far, our attention had frequently been 
attracted to the large number of native children encountered upon the 
streets whose little shaved heads were covered with masses of corruption. 
In Nagasaki this was a particularly noticeable feature, and the exceptional 
child that was not so afflicted generally suffered from influenza to such an 
extent as to make it abhorrent to the sight. The first, we were informed, is 
resultant from hereditary disease, and the second from exposure during the 
past severe winter ; for it is the custom for mothers, but more frequently 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



OI 



elder sisters, to carry infants about upon the back, where their bodies are 
protected by the cloth garment of the carrier, leaving their uncovered heads 
and legs exposed to the weather. Further than this, it is safe to say that at 
least one-half the common people we met in the lower provinces, who were 
bareheaded, had influenza in more or less severe forms. 







%^il^rott|KM&°°TH 



Among the pleasant one-day trips is that to Mogi {Moh-jee). With two 
coolies to a jinrikisha, we ascend the mountain side back of the town by the 
densely populated road passing the Bronze Horse Temple. 

Before reaching the summit, from the turnings of the highway we get 
picturesque views of the town beneath and behind us, the expanse of vision 
being increased as we ascend and come upon each successive turn, until 
entering a deep cut near the top. 



I02 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



Once on the summit, and looking to the south, the most entrancing 
panorama is spread before us. The road is seen following the contour of 
the hills, often doubling upon itself, but always a descent ; clinging to the 
edge of the mountain side until it crosses a pretty bridge, when it is lost in 
a bamboo forest; reappearing farther down the valley and following the 
course of a mountain stream, until at intervals it looks no larger than a 
spider's thread. 

The rate of speed at which we followed its windings was at times enough 
to excite the nerves ; but the sure-footed coolies never stumbled, and as we 
crossed the last bridge and bowled through the village of Moji we were sorry 
the descent was ended. 

Beyond the village, which is spread along a bow-shaped bay indenting 
from the Sea of Amakusa {A h-fnah-koo-sah), stands upon a projecting point a 

picturesque little tea-house, 




a stone sea-wall fronting it 
to prevent encroachment of 
the waters, while at the ex- 
treme end of the grounds 
is a torii and shrine worth 
stroHing down to look at. 

On the tea-house veranda 
we eat the lunch we brought 
with us, supplemented by 
the beer, tea, and sweet- 
'^'^'' cakes of the inn, while en- 

joying a pleasant chat with a young officer of the Naval Marine Corps, 
R. Sano, paymaster on H. I.J. M. S. " Manju," then lying in Nagasaki har- 
bor. Evidently this officer has introduced himself with a view of imparting 
information to " the foreigners," and at the same time trying his knowledge 
of English upon us, the writer meanwhile wishing that he possessed the 
ability to reciprocate with equally good Japanese. 

Within the tea-house, seated upon the mats, was a quartet of pretty 
Japanese girls, evidently bent on a holiday outing from Nagasaki, for their 
jinrikishas stood near by. They seemed to enjoy the sweetmeats and tea 
set before them, and it occurred to us that their conversation must be very 
amusing, for their shrill giggling laughter constantly greeted our ears ; but it 
also struck us as strange that Shimid, who of course understood every word 
they said, did not change his imperturbable countenance into a smile. The 
matter was afterward made quite clear by Shimid's explanation that the girls 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. IO3 

were laughing at my attempts to work off a small stock of ready-made 
Japanese upon our naval friend. 

An alternative return route to Nagasaki, we were informed, is by sailing- 
boat to Aba {Ali-bah), about seven or eight miles up the coast, taking the 
jinrikishas and coolies along ; or, Aba is reached by an uninteresting road 
following the coast. From Aba an excellent highway crosses the Himi-toge 
(^Hee-mee-toh-gay) range and from thence to Nagasaki, a distance of five or 
six miles. We preferred to return the way we had come, and were glad we 
did so; for we reached the summit of the hill overlooking Nagasaki just at 
sunset, and a glorious sight it was. 

If the traveller's curiosity or search for knowledge has led him to see the 
geisha and samisen girls of Tokio or Kioto, he should not fail to repeat 
the experience in Nagasaki. That the constant presence in the city of 
foreign officers and sailors has led to the marked difference in the demeanor 
of these girls it would not be safe to say, but it is so claimed by the 
Japanese. While in their performances there is no exposure of the person 
their boldness and abandon are quite apparent, and in marked contrast to 
those in Kioto or the capital, while their music is, if possible, a little more 



I04 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



TOKITSU, URESHINO, ARITA, ETC. 



HAVING renewed our supplies in Nagasaki, packed light baggage, and 
engaged eight coolies with four jinrikishas, we left the hotel at seven 
o'clock in the morning, before life was apparent on the Bund, and 
rolled at an easy gait through the native town, seeing some queer 
domestic bath-tub sights by the way, and out into the country upon a wide 
but rather rou^h road. 





'W>- '■ 



-g^j,g^drakami- 



Urakami (^Oo-rah-kah-inee)., a straggling bathing village, is about three 
miles distant ; and three miles beyond, where the road on a sharp descent 
emerges from a deep cut, we see on the overhanging edge of a rock cliff on 
the left a peculiar shaped " balance rock," with which is associated some 
ridiculous legend about that being " the rock where the mackerel rotted." 

Tokitsu (Toh-kee-tss), a dirty, uninteresting place on the Gulf of Omura 
(^Oh-moo-rak), about eight miles from Nagasaki, is the starting point for 
small steamboats to Omura, Sonogi {Soh-noh-gee), Kawatana (JCah-wah-tah- 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



105 



na/i), and Haiki (^Hi-key^ on the east side, and Kaminoura (^Kah-7nce-noh- 
00-rah) on the west side of the Gulf. 

Tokitsu boasts of two very poor inns, that nearest the water being perhaps 
the least objectionable. Within the inn, near the hatoba, the "ticket agent," 
with blank forms printed on rice-paper, and a brush and India ink to fill them 
up, sat upon a raised open space, while he dispensed tickets for the various 
points, the rate to all places seeming to be the same — twenty-five sen. 

At nine o'clock in the morning, in an open sampan, we were taken out 
to the steamer lying at anchor, — and such a steamer! About the size of 
one of our smallest tug-boats, 
the " first-class saloon " being 
only four feet high, compelling 
us to follow the example of our 
Japanese fellow passengers and 
"squat "upon the floor, which, 
however, was covered with a 
matting. Of course every one 
smoked, and some of the odors 
coming from the diminutive 
pipe-bowls excited our wonder 
if not our admiration. 

As we were the only for- 
eigners on board we made 
friends with the Japanese cap- 
tain, and obtained permission 
for Mrs. G. to sit in the wheel- 
house, while the writer occupied 
the little deck in front of it. 

The Gulf is a most picturesque 
grass and pine clad islands, while 




%» 



paol-f.P"^^^- 



sheet of water, its surface dotted with 
the mainland is generally cultivated, 
excepting where mountain ranges rise from the shores. 

The village of Omura is twelve miles from Tokitsu, and Sonogi, the 
second stopping place, twenty-seven miles. Here we go ashore in a sampan, 
and at the Matsumori (^Mah-tsoo-moh-ree) inn secure jinrikishas (two coo- 
lies each) for the journey to Ureshino {Oo-ray-shee-noJi), eight miles, and 
Arita (^Ah-ree-ta/i), eight miles farther on. The road is very good and quite 
pretty to Ureshino, celebrated for its natural hot-baths ; and while an 
investigation of. the latter is making, Mrs. G. is cared for by the Japanese 
women in the Shiwoya {Shee-woh-yali) inn. 



io6 



JAPAN AS WE SA W IT. 



In a long wooden shed baths of three classes are located, those of the 
first class having porcelain linings, and being in every way inviting. The 
lower class baths, however, make no pretensions to luxury. Here both 
sexes may be seen bathing, entirely nude, seemingly unconscious of any 
impropriety, and, it must be admitted, with complete absence of either lewd 
looks or acts. 

The road from Ureshino to Arita, passing through the village of Kami- 
hasami {Kah-mee-hah-sah-inee\ is not particularly interesting until it joins 
the road from Kawatana to Arita, two or three miles from the latter place. 
Indeed, if the objective point be Arita without regard to Ureshino, it is 

much better not to leave 
the steamboat at Sonogi, 
but to continue to Kawa- 
tana, five miles farther, 
or rather to the entrance 
of the breakwater pro- 
tecting the front of the 
town, where passengers 
enter sampans and are 
" sculled " for half a mile 
to the steps of a very 
dirty inn overlooking the 
water. Here jinrikishas 
can be engaged (two 
men, fare two yen) for Arita, about eleven miles distant. 

For fast travelling, the coolies of this province excel any we have hitherto 
had. Whether by reason of less frequent employment they are fresher than 
those in more generally travelled sections, or because, as a rule, they are 
younger men, is hard to say; but, in our rides about Kyushu, it required 
continual restraining by us to prevent them from racing at the top of their 
speed. Clothed only with a breech-clout and a pair of waraji (rope sandals,, 
which cost one and one half sen per pair), the leaders who drew Mrs. G.'s 
jinrikisha seemed to enjoy setting the pace for their followers, who, nothing 
loath, would utter warning cries when the leaders eased up. Ten or fifteen 
miles without a stop was no test of their endurance, in strong contrast to the 
jinrikisha men found in such cities as Yokohama, Tokio, and Kioto, where a 
few miles, at a comparatively slow pace, would produce labored breathing 
and a walk. Kyushu coolies are said to have covered eighty miles between 
daylight and dark ; but as road distances given in Japan are often based on 




C/ay Pu/rerJzer 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. \OJ 

guess Avork, and, in the interest of the coolie, generally exaggerated, the 
statement must be taken for what it is worth. By dint of pushing, we have 
covered fifty-eight miles in a day, and it was a good day's work. 

Within a few miles of Arita the scenery becomes very fine, the road 
following close to a mountain range lying on the right, with high rugged 
peaks on the left sometimes near at hand, and again their giant heads rise 
one above the other as far as the eye can see. The mountain streams 
furnish power for the clay mills, if the crude but ingenious appliances may 
be so termed, and with no small interest we alight at the first one seen to 
observe its operation. 

Two heavy hewn logs or timbers twenty-five or thirty feet long, working 
up and down upon a lateral pivot, are placed side by side. One end of each 
timber is armed with a heavy iron or wood hammer or pounder which, in 
addition to the natural excess weight of the timbers forv/ard of the pivot, 
give to the front end of the timbers a counterbalance of one hundred or two 
hundred pounds weight over the rear half. The rear end of each log consists 
of a " dug out " water tray, into which, from a natural stream or artificial 
sluiceway whose outlet is a trough with a long and a short mouth a foot or 
two higher than the tray, the water flows until the tray is full. The added 
weight of the water counterbalancing the pounding end, the rear end falls to 
such an angle that the tray empties itself, immediately returning to the 
pounding end its normal excess of weight, which drops the hammer into or 
upon the pile of rock clay placed beneath it. The quick successive blows 
thus given gradually reduce the rock to a powder. 

It will be seen that the tray nearest the outlet receives its water from 
the short mouth, while the long mouth supplies the other tray ; therefore the 
first fills more rapidly than the other, and its blow upon the clay is more 
frequent. The moment either tray begins to fall it leaves the point at which 
the water can deliver into it, and does not resume that point until it empties 
and rises to its original position ; the body of water coming from the feeding 
trough in the meantime going to waste. 

These pounders work night and day, the only attention required being 
the periodical placing of a pyramid of rock beneath each hammer ; and as a 
" crater," so to speak, is formed by the constant blows in the centre of the 
pyramid, the edges surrounding this crater fall over into it, and in turn receive 
their poundings. 

Little piles of the rock clay are seen in front of nearly every habitation, 
collected, we were told, by each family, and sold for use of the Arita pot- 
teries. 



io8 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 



Turning to the right upon reaching the broad pike leading up to the town, 
our coolies set up their usual shouts, which draw the natives from the little 
houses lining the road to gaze at and join the crowd following the tojin 
{toh-jin), as the common people sometimes call the foreigner. 

There are two inns in Arita, the Matsumoto and the Ise-ya {Ee-say-yah). 
At the former they declined to receive us, alleging " no rooms " as a reason ; 
but we afterward learned that they wished to avoid the crowd which followed 
us, for, before reaching the Ise-ya, our rear escort must certainly have num- 
bered five or six hundred men, women and children, who, not content with 
looking at us, reach over the sides of the jinrikishas to feel 
of our clothes. We were not sorry upon halting at 
the inn entrance to quickly remove our 
shoes, that we might climb the 
steep stairs to our room above and 
for a short time escape the curi- 
osity of the crowd. 

Upon reaching the room we 
missed Shimid, who was usually 
on hand to arrange our belongings, 
and were at a loss to account for 
his absence, until attracted by a 
clatter at the foot of the stairs we 
saw him and two of the inn women 
struggling to get a rude table and two chairs up to us. He explained that 
in passing the police station he had espied these strange structures, and 
upon leaving us safely within the inn had returned and demanded their 
loan, on the ground that "the high crass people with him wanted them." 

The curious natives still filled the street in front of the inn, and we were 
compelled finally to push aside the paper screens fronting the thoroughfare 
and satisfy their curiosity by showing ourselves, much as Tom Thumb would 
have done when an American mob barricaded his hotel entrance. 

After an inspection of our passport by the police, one of the force kept 
near us while we walked to the celebrated Koransha pottery. Here we were 
cordially received by the Manager and escorted through the works, being 
shown the various processes of grinding the clay and moulding and forming 
the ware, after which the baking kilns or ovens were inspected, and we 
presently reached the immense rooms where the native artists applied with 
their brushes and deft fingers the ornamentation which so much excites the 
admiration of foreign nations. 




JAPAN AS WE SAIV IT. 



109 



The larger part of the pottery produced here is the underglazed blue and 
white combination known as the Imari {Ee-niah-ree) ware, simply because 
Imari, at the head of the Gulf of Omura, is the principal shipping point for 
Arita's product. But the manufacture is not by any means confined to that 
class, for we saw in process of completion jars, vases, and table sets, in com- 
binations of rich dark green, red, gold, and chocolate brown ; and finally we 
were ushered into an apartment containing solely the Koransha Exhibit for 
the American World's Fair of 1893. 

Every other shop on the main street is devoted to the sale of pottery, while 
the noise of the clay grinding and pulverizing machines continually falls upon 
the ear, for on either side of the narrow strip town a water course supplies 
the power by which they are kept in action night and day. 




q/apanes£ Pj/^£:s 

Attempts to examine some of the shop contents had finally to be given up 
that day, for the crowd still hung at our heels and filled up the entrances 
wherever we stopped. While this was to a certain extent annoying, at no 
time was there by word or act any indication of disrespect ; and even when 
the women felt of Mrs. G.'s hair, the action was accompanied by pleasant 
smiles indicating their good nature and gratification that they were allowed 
to satisfy their curiosity. As Mrs. G. was said to have been the only foreign 
or white woman seen in Arita in three years, the extraordinary interest shown 
toward her may be readily understood. 

Desirous of seeing how Shimid was getting along with our supper, to 
cook which he was utihzing the inn kitchen, I descended the stairs and turned 
towards the little open court yard. To my surprise I saw just in front of me 
the usual inn bath tub, and beside it, standing on the stone flagging, one of 
the serving girls perfectly naked as she had stepped from the bath. She was 
not at all disturbed by my appearance, but calmly proceeded to dry herself 
with the blue and white cotton towel she held in her hand, and ten minutes 
after was unconcernedly waiting upon Mrs. G. in the room above. This 



no JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

incident is mentioned to convey the idea that to her mind there was no impro 
priety in thus appearing before a foreigner or any one else, because she was 
simply doing what probably her mother and grandmother had taught her was 
natural ; and I was assured by Shimid, who judged human nature very 
closely, that she was a good girl. 

Not until Shimid announced that supper was ready did it occur to us that 
the relative heights of the borrowed table and chairs were slightly at variance 
with those we had been accustomed to, and we found that an eighteen inch 
high chair brought the chin just on a level with the forty-two inch table, a 
strong argument, from the Japanese standpoint, in favor of the o zen {ph-zen\ 
or six inch high Japanese table, and a cushion on the floor. 

Several days may be profitably spent in and about Arita, in visiting the 
numerous potteries and noting the different qualities and patterns produced; 
but the " Seija-kaisha " pottery, where are found in addition to ordinary 
articles of ware the large vases often seen in gardens and upon lawns at 
home, is next to the Koransha, previously referred to, the largest and most 
interesting establishment 

As we lengthened our stay so did we correspondingly appreciate the 
kindly nature of the people. The fact of our having once spoken (although 
at second hand) with a man or woman was sufficient reason for their pleasant 
recognition whenever we chanced to meet, or for sending flowers to our inn, 
or enquiring as to our health and happiness. We look back on Arita with 
many pleasant memories, and hope to see it again. 

Arita to Haiki (eight miles, one coolie, fare one yen) is a fairly good road 
for the first two miles, after which comes a steep and long ascent followed 
by a down hill dash, and then a good road the balance of the way. The 
scenery is wonderfully picturesque, and in the gray haze of that morning we 
thought that mountain peaks never looked so solemn and grand ; nor was this 
feeling lessened by the presence at intervals on the roadside of old temples 
partially hidden among the trees, with their stone, wood or bronze torii 
marking the approach to them; or, perched up among the rocks, a shrine 
from the front of which fluttered the paper strips or prayers of those who 
thus "put in writing" their special wants or desires, lest they might other- 
wise be overlooked. 

Within half a mile of Haiki and just after crossing a long bridge a brick 
yard is seen on the left, where it is worth while stopping for a few minutes 
to see the operation of manufacture. 

Haiki is an insignificant place, with apparently one shop for each inhabitant 
and a loud-mouthed dog to each family. The inn, immediately upon the 



JAPAN AS WE SA IV IT. 



Ill 



water, is very dirty ; so we would advise travellers coming from Arita to 
arrange their arrival as close to one o'clock as possible. At that hour a little 
steamer leaves the back door of the inn for Tokitsu. 

The first three miles is down the tributary connecting the Genkai-Nada 
with the Gulf of Omura proper, although the water course referred to is held 
to be a part of the Gulf. At ten miles from Haiki we pass between groups 
of islands whose sides are cultivated terraces from base to summit. Wind- 
ing in between two of these, with hardly room for the boat to turn, we stop 
in front of the village of Kaminoura, nestling at 
the mountain foot. Then through other passages 
out into the Gulf again, until we reach Tokitsu 
at five o'clock. An hour and forty minutes pull 
by the Nagasaki coolies, who, expecting us the 
previous day, have been waiting twenty-four hours, 
and we alight at the Bellevue Hotel, glad to see a 
dining-room, bath, and bed in foreign style. 

An interesting four days' excursion from Na- 
gasaki, if the weather be pleasant, may be taken 
to and down the Kumagawa {Koo-mah-gah-wah) 
rapids, visiting en route the city of Kumamoto 
{K oo-mah-moh-toh\ fifty-four thousand population, 
and the town of Yatsushiro {Yat-soo-shee-roh). 
Steamers leave Nagasaki every morning for Hy- 
akkwan i^Hyahk-kahn'), about fifty miles, one of 
Kumamoto's ports located at the mouth of the 
Shiragawa {She-rah-gah-wah) River, and four miles 
from Kumamoto. Mrsumi {Mee-zoo-mee), the new 
port for Kumamoto, is also reached by the same 
steamer; but the twenty-four mile jinrikisha ride 
from there to Kumamoto is a hard one. Jf^oadsIdoWlui ^ 

In bad weather the landing at Hyakkwan by 
means of sampan is anything but agreeable, and if a rough sea is running a 
strong possibility of getting wet is presented.' The first night had better be 
spent at Kumamoto, where the inn called Suigetsu {Swee-gay-tsod) offers 
good accommodation. The well-shaded and clean streets, some interesting- 
bridges, an old castle in excellent state of preservation, and a pretty park 
called Suizenji {Swee-zen-jee)^ with its sparkling stream of water from which 
the fish leap. to catch crumbs thrown by visitors, will serve to occupy the 
remaining hours of daylight. 




112 JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. 

Kumamoto to Yatsushiro is about thirty miles, over a very good and 
interesting jinrikisha road (two coolies, two yen), spending the night at the 
Matsumura {Mah-tsoo-7noo-?'ah) inn. 

Yatsoshiro is celebrated for its pottery production, which is, in appearance 
at least, entirely different from that seen at Arita. Captain Brinkley, of 
Tokio, admittedly the best authority on Japanese porcelain, thus writes of the 
Yatsoshiro ware : " It is the only Japanese ware in which the characteristics 
of a Korean original are unmistakably preserved. Its diaphanous, pearl-gray 
glaze, uniform, lustrous, and finely crackled, overlying encaustic decoration in 
white slip, the fineness of its warm, reddish pate, and the general excellence 
of its technique have always commanded attention." 

The remaining hours of the day may be devoted to the potteries, or should 
that be undesirable, and the traveller be not too tired, he can press on to Sajiki 
{Sah-jee-kee) — sometimes called Sashiki — fifteen miles farther (fare sixty 
sen), and stop the second night at the Hashimoto {Hah-shee-moh-toh) iim. 

From Sajiki it is seven and a half miles inland to Tsuge-mura {Tsoo-gay- 
moo-raK), or Tsuge as4it is locally called, upon the Kumagawa River, where 
boats are taken for the twenty-five mile passage of the rapids back to 
Yatsushiro. Some thirty rapids are " shot " in the descent, at times past 
high limestone cliffs overhanging the river, while upon the opposite side are 
groves or forests of bamboo, pine, and cryptomeria. A cave called Konase 
{Koh-nah-say'), said to be over two hundred feet deep, wide, and high, with 
shrine inside, is located'on the river side about thirteen miles from Tsuge, 
and is well worth stopping to explore. . , 

Excepting in the matter of distance covered and number of rapids, the 
passage of the Kumagawa cannot be said to differ greatly from that of the 
Katsuragawa rapids near Kioto, already referred to. Both are exciting 
experiences and both present grand scenery; but there is a similarity in the 
two that "blunts the edge" of excitement, or rather lessens the realization 
of the second after ohe has done the first. , - 

Yatsushiro to Udo (or Uto), by the same road traversed from Kuinamoto, 
is about twenty miles, and thence fifteen miles to Misumi, where steamer is 
taken for Nagasaki. Making an early start from Yatsushiro, Misumi caij be 
reached in time to get the boat the same day; but it is safe to ascertain at 
the shipping office in Kumamoto just what hour the boat leaves Misumi, and 
arrange arrival there accordingly. 

From Nagasaki we were " booked " to Shanghai, Hong Kong, and thence 
to London, Liverpool, and New York ; but by reason of our having overstaid 
the alloted time in nearly every important place visited, the season had 



JAPAN AS WE SAW IT. II3 

advanced toward hot weather before we were ready to leave Japan. There- 
fore physicians and friends in Nagasalci opposed the idea of subjecting 
ourselves to the oppressive heat sure to be encountered during three weeks' 
voyage upon or near the equator. Besides this, news had reached Nagasaki 
that cholera had made its appearance at Aden and Port Said, so we deter- 
mined to return home by the same route we had come ; viz., via Yokohama 
and Vancouver. A cable message to Hong Kong secured a desirable cabin 
from Yokohama on the Canadian Pacific Steamship Empress of Japait., 
due to sail from Hong Kong in a week, and as all these steamers touch at 
Shanghai, Kobe, and Yokohama in both directions, we had ample time in 
which to meet her at the latter port. 

By the Steamship " Saikio Maru " we again traverse the "road" to 
Shimonoseki, and thence through the Inland Sea to Kobe. Twenty-four 
hours while the ship lay at Kobe gave us an opportunity of renewing ac- 
quaintances made during our previous ten days' stay in that delightful city. 
The return to Yokohama by sea (twenty hours' passage) afforded a pleasant 
alternative to the rail route previously described, passing down through the 
Gulf of Osaka and Sea of Kishi into the Pacific, close to smoking Oshima 
at the mouth of the Seia of Sagami {Sah-gah-mee)^ and up through the Gulf 
of Tokio to the anchorage off Yokohama. 

A few days later we boarded the Evipress of Japait^ accompanied by 
our faithful Shimid, who to the last moment, regardful of our comfort, 
arranged our personal belongings in the cabin, while tears trickled down his 
cheeks. The all ashore signal is given, the good-byes are said, the great 
twin screws begin the revolutions which never cease for twelve days, and a 
few hours later, as night settles down upon the sea, the shores of Japan fade 
from our sight; but the memories of her beauties and art, her pleasant 
people, and the warm hearts we found under her oriental garbs, will never 
fade so long as life shall last. 



APPENDIX 



Ri, Japanese. 
.44 Miles, English. 



JAPANESE ]MONEY. 

10 Rin . . . equals . . . i Sen (or cent). | 100 Sen . . . equals . . . i Yen (or dollar). 

The value of Japanese money is based on the value of the Mexican silver dollar. For example: 
Should the silver dollar be selling at seventy cents, the American paper dollar, or its gold equivalent 
represented by letter of credit or bank draft, is worth $1.30 in Japanese money. 

Travellers can obtain funds at bank agencies in Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki; but there are no 
agencies in Tokio, Kioto, or Osaka, nor, indeed, in any other place referred to in the described journey. 

Paper money, in denominations of one, five, and ten yen, is found most convenient. A supply of 
small silver change should be kept on hand, as coolies, servants, and small shopkeepers seldom have any. 

DISTANCES. 

I Cho . . equals . . . 358 Feet, English. 1 36 Cho . . equals 
15 Cho . . " (practically) i Mile, English. ! i Ri . . . " 

All distances in Japan are based on the cho and ri. 

CLOTH MEASURE. 
I Shaku equals (practically) 12 Inches, English. I i Jo . equals (practically) . 10 Feet, English. 
10 Shaku " .... I Jo, Japanese. | 

Silks, crapes, and cloth generally are sold by the shaku and jo. 

LAND MEASURE. 

The Tsubo is the basis for land measure, and equals, practically, four square yards, English. 
1210 Tsubo is practically an acre. 

STEAMERS OF THE JAPANESE STEAMSHIP CO., 
OR NIPPON YUSEN KAISHA, 

Sail from Yokohama and Kobe, weekly, for Shimonoseki and Nagasaki, passing through the most 
beautiful portions of the Inland Sea m daylight. 

PASSENGER RATES. 





First Class, 
Single. 


First Class, 
Return. 


Second Class, 
Single. 


Second Class, 
Return. 


Yokohama and Kobe .... 


$10 00 


$18 00 


$6 00 


$11 00 


Do. Shimonoseki 






20 00 


33 00 


12 00 


20 00 


Do. Nagasaki . 
Kobe and Shimonoseki . 






26 00 
10 00 


43 00 
15 00 


16 00 
6 00 


26 00 
9 00 


Do. Nagasaki . . . 
Shimonoseki and Nagasaki 






16 00 
8 00 


25 00 
12 00 


10 00 

500 


15 00 
7 50 


Nagasaki and Shanghai 






20 00 


30 00 


r2 5o 


18 75 



Servants charged for. Passengers booked on board are charged ten per cent extra. 

Return tickets are available for ninety days, exclusive of day of issue; they are not transferable, 
but passengers have the option of surrendering a return ticket at any time within one hundred and 
twenty days from its issue, the Company refunding the sum charged therefor, less ten per cent. 

115 



ENGLISH AND JAPANESE. 



PRONUNCIATION. 

Letters of the English alphabet, when used to form Japanese words, are 
pronounced as follows : — 



A 


like 


2L 


in 


father, 


E 


a 


e 




obey, 


I 


" 


i 




machine. 


O 


11 







bowl, 


U 


<c 


00 




moor, 


AI 


u 


i 




isle. 


AU 


it 


ow 




how. 


SH 


" 


sh 




shall. 


HI 


u 


she 




shear, 


CH 


a 


ch 


a 


chance. 



Consonants are pronounced as in English. 

G, used elsewhere in a word than at its commencement, usually is sounded 
like ng in gong. In the province of Kyushu, however, it is pronounced like 
g in good. 

Where a word ends in j?/, the u is silent, making the rendering of the 
word's final nearly like the sound of ssy for example, Tokitsu is pronounced 
Toh-kee-tss^ with a dwell upon the last syllable, as in the termination of the 
English word admits. 

Where a syllable ends with ;z, the preceding vowel is pronounced as it 
would be in English. 

There is no difference in the Japanese language between singular and 
plural, 



ii6 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



A 


Air, kuki. 


Arrive, To, c/iaku saru, tski- 




All, mina. 


masit. 


Abdomen, hara. 


of you, mi7/a sama. 


Artist, painter, e-kaki. 


About (approximate), Jiodo. 


the time, itsudemo ; 


Ascend, To, agem. 


About ten sen, jiu sen 


shjiii. 


Ask, To (inquire), kikji. 


gnrai. 


All readv, shtakit des. 


I will ask, watashi kiki- 


About how many miles? 


right, j'c?;'fj-///. 


7?iasho. 


nan ri hodo. 


Allow, To, yurnsii. 


Please ask, kiite kudasai. 


About how much ? dojio- 


Almost, hotondo. 


Assistance, shusi7t. 


gjirai. 


Alone, shtori. 


Association, kai-sha, kaigo. 


Above (on top), ne. 


Let alone, luhatte okzi. 


Attention, ki wo tske7'u koto. 


Absent, riisn. 


Already, sude ni. 


At, ;//; de. 


Accident, y?// no koto. 


Always, itsudemo. 


first, hajimete. 


Accidentally, /?//<?. 


And, to. 


last, yoyaku ; shose7t. 


Account, kanjo. 


Pen and 'w\\i,fudetosnmi. 


least, semete. 


Across, crosswise, j'cZ't' ;//. 


Angry, to be, hara wo ia- 


all, sappa7'i, skoshi 1710. 


Actor, yaksha. 


tern. 


Auction, seri-iiri. 


Adieu, sayonara. 


Another (different), hoka 


Aunt, oba. 


Address, written, tokoro- 


no. 


Autumn, aki. 


gaki, on a letter, nwagaki. 


Another one, mo shtotsu. 




What is your address ? 


One after another,/?/;/ ni. 


B 


Anata no tokoro wa do- 


Animal (quadruped), keda- 


ko des ka. 


7710110. 


Baby, akamho. 


Advertisement, kokoku. 


Answer, /ie7?ji. 


Back, se7iaka. 


Afraid, kowai. 


me, he7iji 7tasai. 


Bad, wariii. 


After (later), ato; nochi. 


Any, deino. 


It is a bad one, warici ;/<? 


(behind), ?/j-//z>£i; jira. 


how ; at all, dode7no. 


da. 


all, shosen. 


body, dare demo. 


B?ig,fuk7cro. 


Again, mata. 


thing, 7ian demo. 


Baggage, ni7notsn. 


Agent, dai-nin. 


time, itsii demo. 


Ball, ta77ia; marjc. 


Agreement, yaknjo. 


where, doko deino. 


Bamboo, take. 


Ahead, saki. 


way, do demo. 


Band (of music), gaktUai. 


I will go ahead, watashi 


Apothecary, ksuriya. 


Bank, gi7iko. 


saki e mairimas. 


Arms, tide. 


Bank-note, ginko-shihei. 


You go ahead, saki ni 


Army, rikiigim. 


Banquet, gochiso. 


oide. 


Around, mawari. 


Barber, ka77iii sa7i. 


Straight ahead, piassugu. 


Arrange, To, so7'oeru. 
117 


Bark, of a tree, kawa. 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



Bath (hot), yit ; furo. 


Black, kiiroi. 


Are you busy, isogaskiic 


(cold), viidzu abi. 


Blind, mekiira. 


gozaimaska. 


Get my bath (hot) ready. 


Blood, chi. 


Butterfly, cho. 


yu %vo tatte iiasai. 


Blotting paper, oshigami. 


Button, bottan. 


Is my bath ready ? furo 


Blue, sora-iro, ai, asagi. 


Buy, To, kail. 


wo dekimashta ka. 


Dark blue, kon. 


me some paper, kami 


Bath-Tub,/z/r^. 


Light blue, midzu asagi. 


wo katte okure. 


Beard, hige. 


Boat, ftme. 


By (by means of), de. 


Bee, hachi. 


Boatman, sendo. 


By hoa.t,/u7te de. 


Beat, To, butsu. 


Body, karada. 


and by, nochi hodo. 


Beautiful, kirei ; rippa. 


Book, hon. 




Because, kara. 


Boots, kutsu. 


C 


Become, To, naru. 


Borrow, To, kariru. 


Bed, nedoko. 


Bottle, tokkuri. 


Cake, kashi. 


Foreign bed, nedai. 


Bottom, shta. 


Calculate, To, kanjo suru. 


To go to bed, nerii. 


Box, hako. 


Call, To, yobu. 


I wish to go to bed, netai. 


Boy, otoko no ko; musko. 


What do you call this? 


Bed-clothes, yagu; futon. 


Brass, shinchiu. 


kore wo najito moshi- 


Bedroom, nema ; nebeya. 


Brazier, hibachi. 


mas ka. 


Beggar, kojiki. 


Break, To, (intr.) koarern. 


Canal, hori. 


Begin, To, hajimerii. 


(trans.) koasii. 


Candle, rosoku. 


Behind, tira; usJiiro. 


Brick, renga. 


Can, dekiru. 


Believe, To, shinjiru. 


Bridge, hashi; bashi. 


Can you do this? kore 


Bell, kane. 


Bring me (a thing), motte 


wo dekiru ka. 


Belong (of), no. 


koi. 


Cannon, taiho. 


It belongs to me, kore 


Bring me (a person), tsiire- 


Cannot, dekinai. 


wa watakushi no. 


te koi. 


Capital (city), miyako. 


Below, shta. 


Bring me water, inidzn 


Card (visiting), tefiida. 


Belt, obi. 


wo motte koi. 


Carpenter, daiku. 


Beside, waki ni. 


Bronze, karakane; shakudo. 


Carriage, basha. 


Best, yoi; ichiban. 


Brother, kyodai. 


Carry, To, mochi ; hakobu. 


Bet, kake. 


Brown (color), Tobi iro. 


To carry away, motte iku. 


Better, motto yoroshi. 


Buddha, Shaka. 


in, motte hairii. 


Let me see something 


Buddhism, Buppo; Bnk- 


Cartage, niguruma-chin. 


better, motto ii mono 


kyo. 


Cashier, kwaikei. 


wo mise nasai. 


Building, iye; tichi. 


Castle, shiro. 


Between, aida ni. 


Bureau, tansu. 


Cat, neko. 


Big, okii. 


Burn, To, (t. v.) moyasu. 


Celebration, matsnri. 


Bill, Give me my, kanjo 


(i. V.) moeru. 


Chair, koshikake. 


okure. 


Business (affair), yoji. 


Change, To, tori kaeru. 


Bird, tori. 


(occupation), shobai. 


Change, small change, 


Bitter, nigai. 


Busy, isogashi. 


tstiri. 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



119 



Charcoal, suvii. 


Color, iro. 


Curio, fiiru-dogu. 


Cheap, yasiii. 


Comb, kiiski. 


Curio-dealer, dogu-ya. 


Chemical, ksiiri. 


Come (imperative), aide. 


Curtain, mado-kake. 


Cheque, kogitte, tegata. 


To come, ktwti. 


Customer, tokui. 


Child, kodoino. 


To come back, kaeru. 


Cut, To, kiru. 


Infant, akatnbo. 


Come here, kochi e aide. 




Chopsticks, hashi. 


Come in please, haire 


D 


Church (Christian), kyokai- 


nasai; Z7'asshai. 




do. 


Will you come ? oide na- 


Damage, kizu. 


Cigar, makl tabako. 


s aim a ska. 


Dance, odori. 


Cigarette, kanii tabako. 


When will you come? 


Dangerous, abiinai. 


Class, \s>\.,joto. 


itsii oide nasaimaska. 


Dark, krai. 


2d, cJmto. 


Tell the boy to come 


Date (day of), gappi. 


3d, kato. 


here, boi wo yoiide koi. 


Daughter, miistime. 


Clean, kirei. 


Company (visitors), kiya- 


Day, nichi. 


Clerk, shoki. 


ku. 


To-day, kon nichi. 


Climate, kiko. 


Cool, siizushii. 


Yesterday, sakn jitsu. 


Clock, tokei. 


Coolie, ninsokii. 


Dear (in price), takai. 


One o'clock, ichiji. 


Jinrikisha coolie, kruma- 


Dear (pet), kawai. 


Two o'clock, niji. 


ya. 


Dead, shinda. 


What o'clock ? toki iku- 


Consul, ryoji. 


Deaf, tsiimbo. 


tsii. 


Contain, To, hairu. 


Decide, To, kimeru. 


Half past three, sajt ji 


Contract, yahijo; keiyaku. 


Delight, yorokobi. 


han. 


Corkscrew, kite hi miki. 


Dentist, haisha. 


Close, To, shhneru. 


Corpse, shigai. 


Deep, fukai. 


Cloth, kire. 


Correct, To, naoshi. 


Decrease,To, j-/^«;^a/&z^ suru. 


Cotton cloth, momen. 


Cough, seki. 


Descend, To, sagarii. 


Woollen cloth, rasha. 


To cough, seki ga derii. 


Devil, oni. 


Clothing, ki7)iono. 


Count, To, kanjo sttrii. 


Diarrhoea, geri. 


Dress-clothes, reifukii. 


Country (not the town), 


Die, To, shimcru. 


Clouds, kumo. 


inaka. 


When did he die ? itsu 


Coal, sekitan. 


Cover (lid), futa. 


skinimashta. 


Coarse (rude), somatsii. 


Crape, chirimen. 


Difificult, mtidziikashi. 


Coat, haori; uwagi. \tai. 


Cripple, bikko ; katawa. 


Dimensions, siimpo. 


Cold (to the touch), tsume- 


Crowd, ozei. 


depth, fiikasa. 


I am cold, samui gozai- 


Cruel, hidoi. 


length, nagasa. 


mas. 


Cry, naku. 


height, nagasa. 


Cold weather, samui. 


Crystal, suisho. 


width, haba. 


I caught cold, kaze wo 


Cup, wan. 


Dirt, gomi. 


hiita. 


Glass cup, koppu. 


Dirty, kitanai. 


It is cold, samii gozai- 


Tea cup, cha wajz. 


Disease, byoki. \hima. 


mas. 


One cup full, ippai. 


Discharge, from service. 



T20 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



Disgraceful, hadziikashi. 


Drawers (garment), shta 


This evening, kon ban. 


Disgust, dislike, kirai. 


ziibon. 




To-morrow evening, mio 


Dish, sara. 


Dream, To, yume wo mint. 


ban. 


Dish (large plate), ozara. 


Dress, kimono. 




T,a,st evening, saku ban. 


Dispute, giron. 


Drink, To, nomu. 




Every body, daredemo. 


Distance, michiiwri. 


Drink-money, cha-dai ; 


sa- 


time, sono tambi ni. 


What is the distance to 


ka-te. 




where, dokodemo. 


Hakone ? Hakone made 


Drive, To, mma wogyosuru. 


Exactly so, chodo. 


inichinori ga ika hodo 


Drunk, sake ni yotte. 




Exchange, To, tori-kaeru. 


arimaska. 


Dry, kawaita. 




Exchange (of money), /^^^/§/. 


Distant, toi. 


Dusty, hokori. 




Excuse me, gomen nasai. 


Do, To, siiru ; iiasu. 


Dye, To, someru. 




Exhibition, hakurankai. 


Please do as I tell you, 






Expense, nyiihi. 


watakiishi no iu tori ni 


E 




Express, kaiso, iinso. 


nasae. 






office, unso kaisha. 


Better not do so, so shte 


Ear, mimi. 




Extinguish, To, kesu. 


wa tvarui. 


Early, hayai. 




Eyes, me. 


What can 1 do for you ? 


Early in the morning. 


asa 




nanika goyo gozai- 


hayaku ni. 




F 


maska. 


Earth, tschi. 






What are you doing ? 


Earthquake, jishin. 




Face, kao. 


nani shimas. 


Easy, yasashii. 




Fall, To, ochiru. 


That won't do, sore wa 


It is very easy, zosa 


mo 


False, nso. 


ikenai. 


nai. 




Fan (folding), ogi ; sensu. 


What shall I do ? do 


Eat, To, taherit. 




(round), uchiwa. 


shim as ho. 


I wish to eat (I am hun- 


Far, toi. 


Isn't it done yet ? mada 


gry), tabetai. 




How far is it to Yoko- 


dekite imasen ka. 


Either, dochij^a demo. 




hama ? Yokohama made 


Doctor, isha. 


Elbow, hiji. 




wa dono kurai des. 


Dog, imt. 


Embroidery, miihaku. 




Fare, chins en. 


Door, to. 


Emperor, tenshi sama. 




first class, yc/(9 chinsen. 


Sliding, shoji, karaka- 


Empty, kara. 




second class, chuto 


mi. 


Hollow, nro ni natta 




chinsen. 


Please shut the door, to 


Enamel, shippo. 




and return, joge. 


wo tatte nasai. 


Endorsement, nragaki. 




What is the fare to To- 


Dose, One, ippiiku. 


Enemy, kataki. 




kio ? Tokio made chin- 


Doubt, utagai. 


Enough, mo taksan. 




sen wa ikiira. 


I doubt it, so de zua nai 


Envelopes, jo-bukuro. 




Farmer, hiaksho. 


to omo. 


Even (level), taira. 




Farther, motto saki. 


Down (below), shta. 


(equal), ichiyo. 




Farthest, ichiban toi. 


Dragon, ryo ; tatsii. 


Evening, ban ; yngata. 




Fast (hurry), hayaku. 


Drawer, ski das hi. 


In the evening, ban hodo. 


Faster, moto hayaku. 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



121 



Fat, futotta. 

Father, ototsafi ; chichi. 

Feather, haiie. 

Feign, To, shirabakureru. 

Female, onna. 

Festival, matsuri. 

Fever, netsu. 

Few, skiinai. 

Field, hatake. 

Fight, kenka. 

Figure (number), kazii noji. 

Fill, To, ippai ni siiric. 

Find, To, mi ataru. 

Have you found it ? atta 
ka. 

I have found it, atta ! 
Finally, toto. 
Fmgers, yttbi. 
Finished, shimai. 

When will it be finished ? 
itsii wo shimai ka. 

I have finished, mo shi- 
mai. 
Fire, hi. 

(Conflagration), kaji. 

Please make me a fire, 
hi wo tskeric. 
First, at, hajime; saisho iii. 
Fish, sakana. 
Flat, hirattai. 
Flea, iiomi. 
Flesh, nikii. 
Floor, ita no ma ; yuka. 

Second floor, nikai. 
Flour, koiia. 
Flower, hatia. 

pot, ueki bachi. 
Fly (insect), hai. 

To fly, tabu. 
Food, shokuji ; tabe mono. 
Fool, baka. 
Foot, ashi. 



Foot measure, shaku-zashi. 

Rule, vio7to-sashi. 
Foreigner, ijin ; gaikoku- 

Jiu ; seiyojin. 

The vulgar word is tojin. 
Foreign-built, seiyo-zn-kiiri. 
Forget, To, wasurerti. 

Do not forget it, wasuretc 
7va ikemasen. 
Fork (eating), nikii sashi. 
Frame for pictures, ivaku ; 

gakubuchi. 
Fresh, atarashii. 
Friends, tomodachi. 
From, kara. 
Front, ojuote. 
Fruit (to eat), mizu-gashi. 
Fry, To, abura-age. 
Full (filled up), ippai. 
Fun, jodan. 
Furniture, dogu. 



Garden, niwa. 
Gate, mon ; mitske. 
Gentleman ; guest ; cus- 
tomer, o kyaku. 
Get, To, viorau. 
To get back, kaesii. 
To get up, okirii. 
Get me a jinrikisha, ku- 
ruma wo yobe. 
Girl (when spoken of), mji- 
sume ; onna no ko. 

(when spoken to), ne- 
san. 
Give me, kudasai. 

Give me some bread, 

pan wo kudasai. 
To give (to another), 
ageru. 



I will give you two yen, 
;// ye7i ageviasho. 
Glad, yorokobi ; ureshii. 
Glass, gianian. 

(Tumbler), koppu. 
Glove, tebukiLvo. 
Glue, nikawa. 
Go, To, iku. 

(of one's self), mairu. 
I will go ahead, saki ni 

mairimas. 
Go to No. \o, Jill ban ye 

yare. 
I wish to go to Tokio, 

Tokio e ikitai. 
I shall go, ikimas. 
I did go, ikimashta. 
Go away, yuke yo ; ike ! 
Let us go now, 7no iki- 
mas ho. 
Go ahead. To, saki e 
yiiku. 



Whe 



you gomg 



dochira e irashaimas 
ka. 
To go up, agarii ; noboru. 
To go down (inclines), 

orirtc ; kiidarii. 
To go into, hairu. 
To go back, kaerii. 
God, Shinto and Protest- 
ant, kam,i ; shin. 
God, Buddhist, hotoke. 

Catholic, tenshu. 
Goddess, onnagami ; me- 

gami. 
Godown (warehouse), Zv^r^. 
Gold, kijt. 

Goldsmith, kazariya. 
Gold fish, kingyo. 
Good, yoroshii. \yoi. 

(to the taste), amai ; 



122 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



Good day, kon nichi wa. 


Hear, To, kiku. \inashta. 


How, ikaga ; doshie. 


evening, kon ban wa. 


I heard it, uketamawari 


can ; how shall, doshte. 


morning, o kayo. 


Heat, atsusa. 


do you do, ikaga de 


night (on retiring), o 


To heat, atsuku sum. 


gozarimas. 


yasiimi nasai. 


Heaven, ten; gokuraku. 


much, ikura. 


bye, sayonara. 


Heavy, omoi. 


many, ikutsu. 


No good, heta. 


Heel, kakato. 


many (persons), ikii- 


Goods, nimotsu ; shina- 


Height, takasa. 


tari. 


mono. 


Hell, jigoku. 


long (until when), itsu 


Grand, rippa. 


Help, To, tetsiidai ; taske ; 


made. 


Grass (turf), ksa ; shiba. 


sewa 700 sum. 


long (in length), naga- 


Grave (tomb), haka. 


Help yourself, dozo goji- 


sa wa dono kurai. 


Gray, nezumi iro. 


yu ni negaimas. 


often, iku tabi. 


Grease, abura. 


Help me, tetsudatte okure. 


Hungry, hara ga hem. 


Green, aoi; viidori; moegi. 


Hence (from here), koko 


I feel hungry, o naka ski- 


Grocer, yaoya. 


ka7'a. 


mashta. 


Groom, betto. 


(from now), kore kara. 


Hurry, isogu. 


Guarantee, hosho. 


(from then), sore kara. 


I am in a hurry, isogi de 


Guide, anitai. 


Here, kochi; koko. 


gozarimas. 


book, annai hon. 


Herself, jibun. 


Hurry up, hayaku. 


Gun, teppo. 


High, takai. 


Husband, /m^/'. 




Him, are wo. 


Hut, koya. 


H 


Himself, jibun. 




Hire, To (a house), kariru. 


I 


Hair, ke; kami. 


(a servant), yatsu. 




Hairpin, kanzashi. 


His, ano shto no. 


I, watakshi ; watashi. 


Half, hambun. 


History, rekishi. 


Ice, kori. 


Hammer, kanadzuchi. 


Hole, ana. 


water, kori-midzu. 


Hand, te. 


Holiday, yasumi bi. 


If, moshi. 


Handful, te ippai. 


Home, otaku; uchi. 


Illness, byoki ; yamae. 


Handkerchief, hanafiiki. 


Honest, shojiki. 


Imitation, mane. [ru. 


Handkerchief (Japanese), 


Horse, mma. 


To imitate, ma7te zvo su- 


temigui. 


Horse race, vuna-kake. 


Immediately, jiki ni. 


Hang up, To, tsuri ageru. 


Hospital, byoin. 


Impossible, dekinai ; deki- 


Handy, kiyo. 


Hot, atsui. 


nai koto. 


Hard, katai. 


Hotel, yadoya. 


In, ni. 


Hat, kaburi mono; shappo. 


To stop at a hotel, ya- 


Incorrect, machigatta. 


He (close at hand), kono 


doya ni tomeru. 


Indeed ! naric hodo ! 


shto. 


llo\xx,toki (see "Clock"). 


Indigo (color), kojt; ai iro. 


(at a distance), anoshto. 


House, ie ; uchi. 


Indolent, busho. 


Head, atama. 


What house is that ? nan 


Ink, sumi. 


Headache, zutsu ; setsunai. 


no ie deska. 


Inkstand, sumi tsubo. 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



123 



Inquiry, tadzuue. 




Kind (sort), sJiitriti ; yo. 


Laugh, To, zua7'aii. 


Insect, mtishi. 




(hearted), shinsetsu . 


Lead, nafjiari. 


Inside, iiaka. 
Instead, kawari ni. 




(gentle), otonahsii. 
What kind? donna shii- 


Learn, To, narau; osowa7-u. 
Lean, yaseta. [ckisai. 


Interpreter, tsuben; tsuji. 
Invoice, okurijo ; nimotsii 


Kitchen, daidokoro. \riii. 
Kite, tako. 


Least (smallest), ickiban 
Leisure, teski. 


kanjo mesaisho. 
Iron, tetsu. 

Cast iron, nabe-gane. 


Knee, hiza. 
Knife, hocho. 

Pocket knife, ko-gataua. 


Lecture, enzeisu. [yosn. 
Leave off. To, yosasern, 
Leaf of a tree, ka. 


Is, arintas. 




Know, To, wakaru; shii'u. 


Left, hida7'-i. 


Is not ; have not, a7-imasen. 


I know, wakarimas. 


side, kida7'i 710 ho. 


It, sore. 

Itself, Of; By itself 


sJitori 


I do not know, wakari- 
77iaseii. 


Turn to the left, kida7-i e 
mawa7'i. 


de. 
Ivory, zoge. 




L 


Legation, koskikan. 

Legs, kashi. 

Lend, To, kasit. {Jutdasai. 


J 

Japan make, wasei. 




Label, fuda-gami. 


Please lend me, kashle 




Lacquer, wushi. 
Lacquer-ware, miri-viono. 


Length, 7iagasa. 

Let, To (allow), sasern. 


Jealousy, yaJdmochi 




Ladder, hashigo. 


(a house), kasn. 


Jetty, hatoba. 
Jewelry, tama zaiku 


■ kaz:i- 


Lamp, atidon. 

Land, To, oka ni aga7-ji. 


Letter, tega77ii. 

Are there any letters for 


rJmoHo. 




Land me at Yokoska, 


me ? tegami ari77iaska. 


Jinrikisha with one man, A, 
ichi-nin-biki 710 kiiriivia. 


Yokoska iii agete okit7'e. 
Language, kotoba. 


Lid, futa. 
Lie, uso. 


Join, To, tsiigii. \sJia. 
Joint Stock Co., gohon-kai- 


Japanese language, A7- 
ho7i kotoba. 


It is a lie, uso des. 
Lie down. To, neru. 


Joke, jodan. 
Journal, shitvakecJio. 
Journey, ryoko. 
Just (fair), tadashi. 




Say it in Japanese, Ni- 
kon go de iinasai. 
Lantern, chochin. 
Large, okii. 
Last, ato 710. 


Light, akari. 

(not heavy), ka7'ui. 

color, Usui i7'o. 
Lightning, inabika7'i. 
Like, To, ski. 


K 




At last, toto. 


Do you like this ? kore 






Late, osoi. 


wo ski7naska. 


Keep, To, motsii. 




Too late, 7na7iiawa na- 


I like tobacco very much. 


To keep back, osaeru. 


katta. 


tabako tvo dai ski. 


Kettle, tetstibin. 




Law, kisoku. 


Lion, ski ski. 


Key, kagi. 
Kill, To, korosu. 




Lawyer, daige7i7iin. 
Lazy, biisho 71a. 


Lily, yuri. 

Liquid,* i7iidzu mono. 



* In Japanese, a liquid body, not having a proper name of its own, 
noun midzu (water) : viz., ajne, candy; jnidzn-anie , liquid candy. 



described by prefixing the 



124 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



little (small), chisai. 
A little, chitto. 

Lodging, yadori. 

Long (in measure), nagai. 
(in time), hisasJu. 

Look out ! abunai. 

Look (Imp.), mi yo. 

To look for something, 
sagasii. 

Loose, yuriii. 

Looking glass, kagaini. 

Lose, To, naku naric. 

Lose (To be beaten), ma- 
ker u. 

Loss, sonmo. 

Loud, takai. 

Low, hikiii. 

Ludicrous, okashii. 

M 

Mad, kichigai. 
Mail, yubin, hikiakii. 
Make, To, kosJm-aeru. 

Can be made, dekirii. 

It is made, dekita. 

What is this made of ? 
kore wa nan de dekite 
orimas. 
Male, otoko. 
Man, otoko. 

Old man, oji san. 

Young man, wakai otoko. 
Manufacturer, seizo 7tin. 
Many, y oho do; oku no; oi. 
times, iku tabi mo. 

How many times, ikii ta- 
bi. 

How many, ikutsn. 

A great many, taksa i. 
Map, edzu; chidzu. 
Market, ichiba. 



Master, danna. 
Mast, hobasJiira. 
Mat, tatami. 
Match, tskcgi; macJii. 
Matting, goza; ttsnberi. 
Matter, koto. 

What is the matter ? 7ia7i 
da. 

No matter, kamaimasen. 
Measure, sinnpo; stinshakic. 
Meat, inku. 
Mechanic, shokunin. 
Medicine, ksuri. 
Meeting, shukzvai. 
Memo, oboe; hirokii. 
Mend, To, naosu. 
Merchant, akindo. 
Messenger, tskai. 

Send a messenger, tskai 
wo yatte kiidasai. 
Midnight, yo naka. 
Milk, chichi. 
Mine, watakshi no. 
Minute (of time), ///;;. 

One minute, ippun. 

Three minutes, sampun. 

Six minutes, roppzin. 

Ten minutes, jippiin. 

Five minutes to twelve, 
jilt ni ji go fun mai. 
Mirror, kagaini. 
Missionary, yaso-kyoshi. 
Mistake, machigai. 
Mix, To, i7iazer7i. 
Mister, san after the name. 
Miss Bird, Bird sa7i 710 

7Hnsnme (lit. the daugh- 
ter of Mr. Bird). 
Miss Kin, O Ki7i sa7i. 
Mistress (of the house), 

oksama. 
Mr. Jones, yo7ies sa7i. 



Mrs., okaf7ii sa7i; oksa7i. 
Mrs. Bird, Bird san 710 oka- 
Money, ka7ie. [misa.'i. 

(coin), shoki7i, za7ii. 
Paper money, sats; ki7i- 

sats. 
Have you any paper mo- 
ney ? ki7tsats ari77taska. 
Monkey, sarti. 
Month, tski. 
Moon, tsai. 
More, i7io; i7iotto. 

Have you any more .-* 

motto, ant ka. 
A little more, 7no skoshi. 
No more, 7710 7iai. 
Morning, asa. 
Mosquito, ka. 
Mosquito-net, kaya. 
Most ; mostly, tagai. 
Mountain, ya77ia. 
Mouth, knchi. 
Mother, okkasa7i. 
Much (plenty), taksa7i. 

better, yo hodo yoi. 
Mud, doro. 
Murder, shto-goroshi. 
Must, kitto. 

go, yukaneba 7ia7'anu. 

see, mi 7iakte 7tara7iii. 

not, bekarazaric. 
My ; mine, watakshi 710. 
Myself, jibim. 

N 

Nail, tsimie. 

Nail (metal), kugi. 

Name (given), 71a. 

Family name, mioji ; sei. 

What is your name ? 7ia 
wa na7tda. 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



125 



Narrow, semai. 


O'clock, Ji; toki. \ji. 


Paint, To, edoru. 


Near, chikai. \jiu. 


What o'clock is it? nan 


Painter, ekaki. 


Necessary, iiakereba nara- 


Odor, nioi. 


Paper, kaini. [mi. 


Neck, nodo; knbi. 


(good), ii nioi. 


Writing paper, kaku ka- 


Needle, hari. 


(bad), ksai. 


W. C. paper, nezumi ban. 


work, hari shigoto. 


Of, no. 


Parasol, higasa. 


Neither, dochi ra mo iiai. 


Office (Government), yak- 


Parcel, tsiitsumi. 


Never, itsiimo Jiai. 


sho. 


Pardon, yurushi. 


mind, kainaimasen. 


Officer, shikan. 


I beg pardon, gomen kn- 


New, atarashii. 


Official, yakunin. 


dasai. 


Newspaper, shimbun. 


Often, tabi tabi. 


Parent, oya. 


Next, sore kara. 


Old (of things),///;-///. 


Passage (in a house), roka. 


Night, yorit; ban. 


(of people), toshiyori. 


Passport, menjo. 


Last night, sakuban. 


How old are you ? toshi 


Past, sen; sendatte. 


To-morrow night, mio- 


zua ikiitsu. 


Pay, To, harau, kanjosiirn. 


bait. 


Is this old } kore wafurui 


What jjay do you want 


One night, ahto ban. 


ka. 


per month } shtotsn tski 


Good night, yastimi 


On, lie ni. 


de ikiira ? 


nasal. 


One by one, ichi ichi. 


Payment, harai. 


Nightdress, nemaki. 


Only, tada bakari. 


V&n,fude. 


Nightly, maiban. 


Open, To, akeru. 


Pencil, empitsu. 


No, iye; nai. [jiai. 


Open the door, to wo 


Penknife, kogatana. 


I have no time, hima ga 


akero. 


Peony, botan. 


Noise, sazuagi. 


Opium, ahen. 


People, shto. 


Noisy, sozoshii. 


Opposite, muko no. 


Person, jin. 


Noon, viahirn. 


Or, ka. 


Photograph, shashin.. 


Afternoon, hiru-siigi. 


Order, shidai. 


Physician, isha. 


Nose, hana. 


To put in order, soroeru. 


Picture (hanging scroll). 


Nothing, nani mo nai. 


Other, hoka no. 


kakemono. 


Not yet, mada. 


Outside, soto. 


Pillow, makiira. 


Now, ima; tadaima. 


Over (on top), ue ni. 


Pin, hari. 


and then, tabi tabi. 


Overcharge, kakene. 


Pine-tree, matsu. 


Number i, ichi ban. 


Overcoat, itwagi. 


Pink, momo iro. 


First, ichi ban me. 


Owner, nushi. 


Pipe, tsutsu. 


No. 10, jiu ban. 


Who owns this ? kore wa 


Pipe (smoking), kseru. 


Numerous, oi. 


dare no mono des ka. 


Place, tokoro. 


Nurse, komori. 




Plank, ita. 




p 


Plant, ki; ksa. 







(in a garden), ueki. 




Pack up. To, tsHtsiimtc. 


To plant, ueru. 


Oar, kai; ro. \ito. 


Pagoda, to. 


Plate, sara. 


Oh]or\g,yoko nagai; nagate 


Painful, itai. 


Play, asobi. 



126 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



Playing (a musical instru- 
ment), shihi. 
Please, dozo. 

dance, odotte kiidasai. 
Pleasure, tanoshimi. 
Plenty, taksan. 
Pocket, kakushi; kiiichaku. 

(Japanese), tainoto. 
Pocket-book, ka77n ire. 
Pocket handkerchief, hana- 

fuki. 
Police, jitnsa. 

ofificer, kebu. 

station, kesatsu-jo. 
Poor, bimbo. 
Porcelain, seto7?iono. 
Porter, mo77ihan. 
Post (of a house), hashira. 
Post (letter), yiibin. 
Postage-stamp, inshi. 
Post-card, hagaki. 
Postoflice, yiibiii kiokii. 
Pottery, yakimono. \ri. 

Powder (medicine), kogusit- 
Present (gift), shiujo. 
Fretty, kirei na. 
Prince, koroku. 
Print, To, stiremasti. 
Printer, kappanya. 
Trison, roya. 
Procure, To, t07'i yosu. 
Promise, yaksokii. 
Proper, tckito Jia. 

That is not proper, sore 

■wa ikemasen. 
Pull, To, hiku. 
Purse, kaiie ire. 
Put, To, okii. 

aside, totte okii. 

down, shta ni oku. 

here, kochi ni okii. 

together, awaseru. 



Put out the light, To, akari 
wo kesn. 



Quality, shinagara. 
Quarrel, kenka. 
Quick (fast), hayakic. 
Quiet, shizuka. 
Quilt, ftiton. 



Race (running), kake. 
Railway, tetsiido. 

station, tetsiido ba. 

cars, or train, kis/ia. 

fare, chinsen. 
Rain, a7?ie. 

It rains, aTne ga furii. 
Rain coat, kappa. 
Raise, To, agent. 

(erect), tate7'u. 
Rascal ! yatsu I 
Rat, 7iezu77ii. 
Raw, 7ia77ia. 
Read, To, yo7nu. 

this, kore wo yo77ii 7ia- 
sai. 
Ready, To get, shtaku wo 
siiru. 
I am ready, shtaku sate 

aru. 
Really ! 7iaru hodo ! 
Reason, dori. 
Receipt, uketori. 
Receive, To, ukeru. 
Red, akai. 
Refusal, kotowari. 
Register (of a letter), kaki 

t077ie. 

Regulation, kisoku. 



Religion, skukyo. 
Remember, To, oboeru. 
Repair, To, tskiiroi. 
Restaurant, 7yoriya. \mi. 
Rest (after fatigue), yasu- 

(remainder), 7iokori. 
Return, To, kaertt. 
Rice (growing), i7ie. 

(boiled), goze7i. 
Rich, ka77e 77iochi. 
Right (opposite to left), 

771 igi. 
Right (just), tadashii. 
Turn to the right, migi e 

77ta%varii. 
Ring, wa. 

Finger ring, ytibi wa. 
River, kawa. 
Road, 77iichi. 
Rock, iwa. 
Roll, i7iaki. 
Roof, ya7te. 
Room, hea; shitsu. 
Rope, 7iawa. 
Round, 77iarui. 
Row, To, kogii. 
Rude, so77iatsu. 
Ruins, koseki. . 
Run, To, hashiru. 

after, ok-kakerii. 

away, 7iigerii. 



Sail, ho. 

To sail, shiippa7i siwii. 
Sailing vessel, ho7nai se7t. 
Sailor, se7ido. 
Salesman, ttri-te. 
Salt, shio. 
Same, 07iaji. 

thing, onaii koto. 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



127 



Sample, mihon. 


Shoulder, kata. 


Soon,y//7. 


Sand, sna. {zori. 


Show, To, miseru. 


Sour, siippai. 


Sandals (used in -doors), 


me, jnise nasai. 


Speak, To, hanasu. 


(out-of-doors), waraji. 


Shut, To, shiineru. 


Spectacles, megane. 


(iron-heeled), ashida. 


the door, to wo shi- 


Spend, To, tskan. 


Sash, obi. 


merii. 


Spoon, saji. 


Satisfy, kiniao. 


Shutter, ainado. 


Spring (of water), idznmi. 


Saucer, sJita-zara. 


Side, Jio ; kata. 


Medicinal spring, tojiba. 


School, gakko. 


This side, kono ho. 


Hot spring, onsen. 


Scissors, hasami. 


One side, kata kawa. 


(season), ham. 


Screen, byobii. 


Both sides, ryo kawa. 


Springs (of a carriage, etc ). 


Sea, icmi. 


Silk, Raw, ki-ito. 


bane. 


Seat, koshi kake. 


Woven silk, kimi. 


Stable, mmaya. 


Second-hand, furute. 


Satin, shusu. 


Stair, hashi-dan. 


Sedan chair, kago. 


Silkworm, kaiko ; ko. 


Up-stair (ist floor), nikai. 


See, To, miru. 


Silver, gin. 


(2d floor), sangai. 


I am glad to see you, yo 


money, ginsen. 


Down-stairs, shta-ni. 


aina sai mashta. 


Sing, To (human), utau. 


Start, To (depart), shnp- 


Please see, goran nasai. 


Singing girl, geisha. 


pan. 


Sell, To, urn. 


Sister (elder), ane. 


Stay, To, tomam. 


Servant (boy), kozkai. 


(younger), imoto. 


I will stay, todomaritnas. 


Maid servant, y^'ir/^z/. 


Sit on the floor,To, snwaru. 


Steal, To, nnstimti. 


Sew, To, nun. 


on a chair, To, kakem. 


Steel, hagane. 


Shade, kage. 


Please take a seat, kake 


Still ; until now, inia made. 


Shampooer, amma. 


Size, okisa. [/tasae. 


Stocking, tabi. 


To shampoo (massage). 


Skin, kazua. 


Stomach, hara. 


tnomu. 


Sky, sora. 


Stone, ishi. 


Shave, To, hige wo sum. 


Sleep, To, neru. 


Stop (wait), matte. 


Shelf, tana. 


Slow, osoi. 


Storm, arashi. 


Shell, kai. 


Smoke, kemuri. 


Straight ahead, massttgu. 


Shine, To, tern, 


Snow,jf/?//^/. 


Stranger, shiranai shto. 


Ship, /«//<?; martc, suffixed 


So, so. 


Straw, wara. 


to a name, means ship 


Soap, shabon. 


Street, machi ; tori. 


(merchant), as " Tokio 


Soft, yarakai. 


Summer, natsu. 


mam.'''' 


Soil, To, yogosii. 


Sun, hi ; tento sama. 


Ship of \v2ir,gim kan. 


Solid, kataf?iatta. 


set, hi no iri. 


Shirt, shatsii. 


Somebody, dareka. 


rise, hi no de. 


Under shirt, shtajiban. 


Somehow, do ka. 


Sunlight, hinata. 


Shoes, kutsu. 


Something, nani ka. 


Sweat, ase. 


Shop, mise. 


Sometimes, aru toki. 


Sweep, To, haku. 


Short, mijikai. 


Son, nizisko. 


Sweet, amai. 


of stature, sei no hikui. 


Song, uta. 


Sword, katana. 



128 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



T 


Throw, To, Jioru. 


Tumble., koppu.. 


away, stete shimae. 


Tunnel, ana. 


Table, dai. 


Thunder, kammari. 


Typhoon, arashi. 


(Japanese), o zen. 


Ticket, kippu. 




Tail, shippo. 


ist class,j7W^. 


U 


Tailor, s/itate ya. 


2d class, chiuto. 


Take, To, toj^u. 


3d class, kato. 


Umbrella, kasa. 


To take back, tori-kaesu. 


Return ticket, ofuku. 


Unable, dekinai. 


away, sageni. 


Tie, To, shiharn. 


Under, shta. 


Take care ! (look out !), 


Tight, katai. 


Underclothes, shta gi. 


abiinai. 


Tin, shari ; suzii. 


Understand, To, zvakarn. 


Talk, hanashi. 


Tinned provisions, kxvan- 


Do you understand? zva- 


Tall, sei no takai. 


To, e ; made. [ztcme. 


kari maska. 


Taste, ojiwai. 


To Tokio, Tokio e. 


Unmarried, doku shin mono. 


Tea, cha. 


Tobacco, tabako. 


Unskilful, heta. 


Tea-house, chaya. 


pouch, tabako-ire. 


Unwell, avibai no warjii. 


Teach, To, oshieru. 


To-day, kon Jiichi. 


Up, ne ni. 


Teacher, sensei. 


Tomb, haka. 


Upside down, sakasa ni. 


Tears, namida. 


To-night, kou ban. 


Up and down, age sage. 


Teeth, ha. 


Too (also), mo. 


Upright (erect), massugn. 


Teeth-powder, hamigaki. 


Too much, amari. 


Useful, cJiocho. 


Telegraph, denshin. 


Tooth, ha. 




office, deitshin kioku. 


Toothpick, koyoji. 


V 


Telegram, dempo. 


Tooth-powder, ha-migaki. 




Tell, To, hanasii. 


Top (on), ue. 


Vase, hana ike tstibo. 


I cannot tell, shiranni. 


Put this on top, kore wa 


Velvet, birodo. 


Please tell me, kikashte 


lie ni oki. 


Veranda, engawa. 


kiidasae. 


Tortoise, kame. 


Very, yoku. 


Temperature, kiko. 


Towel, tenngui. 


Very pretty, taiso ni kirei. 


Tepid, iiiirui. 


Toy, omocha. 


View, mi-harashi. 


Thank you, arigato. 


Trade, akinai. 


Violet (color), sumire-iro. 


That (pronoun), sono ; ano. 


Tram, tetsudo-basha. 


Voice, koe. 


Theatre, shibai. 


Translation, honyaht. 


Loud voice, goe. 


There, achi ; soko ni. 


Translator, honyahi-kata. 


Voucher, shosho. 


Thermometer, kandankei. 


Tray, bon. 


View, mi harashi. 


Thick, atsuku. 


Treasure, kanjo-kata. 




Thin, Kstii ; yasete. 


Tree, ki. 


W 


Thing (abstract), koto. 


Trowsers, zubon. 




(concrete), mono. 


True, makoto. 


Wages, gekkin ; kiitkin. 


Think, To, omoic ; kangaii. 


Trj^ To, tamesu. 


Wait, To, matsti. 


Thirsty, kawaki. 


I will \xy,yatte mimasho. 


Walk, To, aruku. 


This, kono ; kore. 


Tub, oke. 


Wall, kabe. 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



29 



Want (To wish), . . . Jai ; 
hoshii. 


Well, yoi ; yoroshii. 
Well (not sick),>^«. 


Woman, onna. 

Old woman, obasan. 


I want (imp.), iru. 
I want to go, iki tai. 


Well (of water), ido. 
Wet, mireia. 


Wood, /■/. 
Word, koioba. 


I do not want, irimasen. 


It is wet, nurele ai'u. 


World, sekai. 


Do you want ? hoshii 


What, nani. 


Work, shigoio. 


ka. 


What is the matter ? do- 


To work, hatarakic. 


I want, . . . watakshi. 


shia. 


Wor thl ess, isumaranai. 


Ward (of town), cho. 


What is it ? nandeska. 


Wrap, To, isuisumu. 


Warm, attakai. 


What is this? ko7'e wa 


Wrestler, sumo. 


To warm, atatamertc. 


nandeska. 


Write, To, kaku. 


Wash, To, araji. 


When ? itsu. 




Washerman, seiitakiiya. 
Washing-basin, chodzii-ta- 


Where ? doko. 
Where do you live? otakn 


Y 


rai. 


wa dochira. 


Year, nen. 


Water (cold), midzu. 


Which? dore. 


Last year, saku ne)i. 


Hot water, yu. 

Bring me some water 


Whisper, To, sasayaku. 
White, shiroi. 


Next year, rai nen. 
This year, to nen. 


please, midzu wo viotte 


Who ? dare. 


How many years ? ikn 


okure. 


Who is there ? dare da. 


nen. 


Watch, tokei. 


Whole, mina. 


How many years old ? 


To watch, ki wo tskeru. 


Wholesale, oroshi. 


ioshi wa ikuisu. 


Water-closet, chodzuba. 
Waterfall, taki. 


Why? naze. 
Wick, shin. 


The new year, shin nen. 
Yearly, mai nen. 


Wave, nami. 


Wife, kamisan. 


Yellow, ki-iro. 


Way (road), michi. 

Go away ! yuke. 
Weak, yowai. 
Weather, ienki. 

Good weather, j^/^ /^;//C'/. 

Bad weather, warui 


Wind, kaze. 
Window, mado. 
Wine, budoshu. 
Winter, /«ji/«. 
Wipe, To.fuku. 
Wish, To, hoshii. 


Yes, hei. 
Yet, mada. 
Yonder, viuko no. 
You (polite), anata. 

(to an inferior), omae. 
You and I, anata to tvaia- 


ienki. 


With (by means), de. 


shi to. 


Weight, mekata. 


Without, naku. 


Yours, anata no. 



I30 


WORDS AND PHRASES. 






NUMBERS. 






CARDINAL 


NUMBERS. 




One, 


Ic/iL 


Thirty, 


San jiu. 


Two, 


Ni, 


Forty, 


Shi jiu. 


Three, 


San. 


And so on to ninety. 


Four, 


Shi. 


Hundred, 


Hyaku. 


Five, 


Go. 


One hundred, 


Ippiaku. 


Six, 


Rokii. 


Two hundred. 


Ni Jiyaku. 


Seven, 


Shchi. 


Thousand, 


Sen. 


Eight, 


Hachi. 


One thousand, 


Issen. 


Nine, 


Ku. 


Two thousand, 


Ni sen. 


Ten, 


Jnc. 


Ten thousand, 


Man. 


Eleven, 


yiu ichi. 


Hundred thousand. 


yiu man. 


Twelve, 


Jiu ni. 


Million, 


Hyaku man. 


Thirteen, 


Jin san. 


Ten million. 


Sen man. 


And 


so on to nineteen. 


Thirty-eight million, 


San-sen hap- 


Twenty, 


Nijiu. 




pyaku man. 


Twenty-one, 


MU 


Ni jiu ichi. 


Billion, 


:rs. 


Cho. 




LTIPLICAT] 


VE NUMBI 




Once, 


Ichido. 


Five times. 


Go tabi. 


Nine times. 


Ku tabi. 


Twice, 


Ni do. 


Six times. 


Rohi tabi. 


Ten times. 


Jittabi. 


Three times, 


San do. 


Seven times, 


Shchi tabi. 


Double, 


Bai or Nibai. 


Four times, 


Yo tabi. 


Eight times. 


Hachi tabi. 


Triple, 


Sam bai. 






MON 


THS. 








Date (month ; 


ind day), gappi. 




January, 


Sho gatsii. 


May, 


Go gatsti. 


September, 


Ku gatsu. 


February, 


Ni 


June, 


Roku " 


October, 


Jtu " 


March, 


San " 


July, 


Shchi " 


November, 


Jin ichi " 


April, 


Shi 


August, 


Hachi " 


December, 


Jiu ni " 



DAYS OF THE WEEK. 



Sunday, 


Nichi yobi. 


Wednesday, 


Sui yobi. 


Monday, 


Gatsu or Getsu yobi. 


Thursday, 


Moku yobi. 


Tuesday, 


Ka yobi. 


Friday, 


Kin yobi. 



Saturday, Do yobi. 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



131 



HOURS. 



Ichi-ji, one o'clock. 

Ni-ji, two o'clock. 

San-ji jip-puii, ten minutes past three. 

Yo-ji jiu-go-fun, fifteen minutes past 

four. 
Jiu-ji han, half past ten. 



Jiu-ichi-ji shi-jm-go-fun, fifteen minutes 

to eleven. 
Jiu-ni-ji Jm-go-fun ??iae, fifteen minutes 

to twelve. 
Haji-ji kail, half an hour. 
yiii-go-fitn, a quarter of an hour. 



BEV 
Almond, hadankiyo; amen- 

do. 
Apple, ringo. 
Apricot, aiizii. 

Bake, To, yaku. 
Barley, omiigi. 
Beans, viame. 
Beef, ushi. 
Beer, bir. 
Berry, ichigo. 
Boil, To, nh'ii. 
Bread, pa7i. 
Broil, To, yakeru. 
Butter, ghi rakii (usually 
batta). 

Cabbage, botaii. 
Cakes, kashi. 
Carrot, ninjin. 
Cherry, sakiira no mi. 
Chicken, tiiwatori. 
Clams, ha?naguri. 
Claret, budo sake. 
Codfish, tara. 
Coffee, ko hi. 
Condiments, yakiimi. 
Cook, ryori-nin. 

To, ryori sum. 
Crab, kani. 
Crayfish, iso ebi. 
Cucumber, kiuri. 



ERAGES, EATABLES, 
Deer, shika. 
Duck (wild), kamo. 
(domestic), ahiru. 

Eels, iinagi. 
Eggs, tainago. 

soft boiled, tamago 7 to 

haiijiku. 
hard boiled, tamago no 

nimiki. 
raw^, iiama ta??iago. 

Figs, ichijiku. 
Fish, sakana. 
Flour, ?/ don no ko. 
Food, tabejnojio. 
Fowl, tori. 
Fruits, kudamono. 
Fry, To, abitra age. 

Garlic, ninniku. 
Ginger, shoga. 
Grapes, bndo. 
Greens, na ; awomono. 

Herring, nishin. 

Lamb, ko hitsji no nihc. 
Lemon, ynzu. 
Lotus, hasu. 

Mackerel, saba. 



ETC. 
Meat, nikii. 

Boiled meat, nita niku. 

Roast meat, mnshi yaki 
Melon, nri. [niku. 

Milk, chichi. 
Mustard, ka^-ashi. 
Mutton, hitsiiji no niku. 

Oil, abura. 
Omelet, tamago yaki. 
Onions, negi. 
Orange, i7iikan. 
Oyster, kaki. 

Pea, endo mame. 

(in the pod), saya endo. 
Pepper, kosho. 
Persimmon, kami. 
Pheasant, kiji. 
Pickles, tskemojio. 
Pigeon, hato. 
Plum, mme ; botankyo. 
Pork, buta. 
Potato (Irish ),y(7o-<7 imo. 

(sweet), satstnna into. 

Quail, udzura. 

Rabbit, usagi. 
Radish, akai daikon. 
Raw (not ripe), awo; mi ga 
iranu. 



132 



WORDS AND PHRASES. 



Raw (not cooked), iiLuna. 
Rice (raw), home. 

(cooked), meshi. 
Roast, 'Yo,yaku. 

Salad, chisa. 
Salmon, shake. 
Salt, shiwo. 
Sardines, iwashi. 
Shrimps, yoku ebi. 
Snipe, shigi. 
Soles, hirame. 

Beer, Brandy, Whiskey, 



Soup, tstiyrn. 
Soy, shoyu. 
Spinach, horenso. 
Strawberries, ichigo. 
Sugar, sato. 

Tea, {o) cha. 

Tinned provisions, kwan 

zume. 
Tomato, aka nasu. 
Trout, yamame. 

Salmon trout, masu. 
etc., are generally known as 
Whiskey sake, etc. 



Turkey, shichimencho. 
Turnip, kabu. 

Vegetables, yasai. 
Venison, shika no niku. 
Vinegar, sti. 

Water, ?mdzii. 
Hot, J//. 
Drinking water, 7wj}ii 
midzu. 
Wine, budo shiu. 
Beer sake, Brandy sake, 



FEATURES OF A COUNTRY, ETC. 

Ascent, nobori-zaka. Gulf, iri tinii. River, kawa ; gawa. 



Bay, iri wni. 

Beach, hama; timi-bata. 

Bluff, gake. 

Bridge, bashi. 

Cape, misaki. 
Capital, miyako. 
Cascade, taki. 
Cave, hora ana. 
City, machi. 

Country, inaka ; kinzai 
sato. 

Defile, semai michi. 
Descent, kiidari zaka. 

East, higashi. 

Forest, h ay as hi ; mori. 



Hill, koyavia. 
Harbor, michi. 

Inferior or lower (town or 

place), shimo. 
IsXdJid, shima. 

Lake, kosui ; ike. 

Mountain, yama. 

North, kita. 

Pass \oi a mountain), toge. 
Peninsula, eda shima. 
Point, saki. 
Port, minato. 
Promontory, ha7ia. 
Province, kuni. 



Sea, timi. 

South, minami. 

Spring, iziimi; waki midzti. 

Hot spring, onsen. 

Medicinal spring, tojiba. 
Street, machi ; dori. 
Superior (place or town), 

kami. 

Tide, shiwo. 

High tide, michi shiwo. 

Ebb tide, hiki shiwo. 
Town, machi. 

Valley, tain. 
Village, 7nura. 

Ward (of town), cho. 
West, nishi. 



INDEX. 



Map of Japan 
Plan of Kioto . . 
Plan of Osaka 
Plan of Tokio . 
Plan of Yokohama 



Inside back cover. 



Adams, Will 32 

Akashi 85 

American Consuls 98 

Arishi-yama ']'^ 

Arita 108 

Ashinoyu 36 

Atami 39 

Awaji Island 85 

Avvaya . . . . 85 

Baggage 23 

Bamboo Forest Road 102 

Bank Shroffs 19 



35, 86, 



Bath, Inn 

Baths 

Bed, Inn 

Beer 

Best Season for Visit .... 

Biwa, Lake 

Bronze Horse Temple, Nagasaki 

Canadian Pacific Railway . . 

Cape Suzaki 

Chair, Mountain 

Chamberlain, Mr. Basil Hall . 
Chinese Servants on Steamers . 

Cigars 

Clay Pulverizers 



87 
106 

87 
6 

5 
73 
99 

II 

17 
36 

4 
92 

6 
107 



Clothing 4 

Coaling at Moji 94 

Coffee 32 

Contrarieties 46 

Curiosity of Natives 108 

Dai-Butsu, Kamakura 31 

Dai-Butsu at Kioto 70 

Dai-Butsu at Nara 80 

Dai-Monji Landmark 70 

Dancing Girls at Nara 79 

Dogashima 36 

Doshisha School, Kioto .... 72 

Drinking Water 6 



Earthquake Experience . . . 


. 28 


Earthquake, Section of 1891 


• 6.S 


Education 


42 


Emperor's Highway to Nikko . 


. 60 


Empress of India, Steamship . 


12 


Empress of Japan, Steamship . 


• 113 


English, Queer Uses of . . . 


• 27 


Enoshima 


• 30 


Expense of Journey .... 


3 



Fans 68 

Farsaris' Japanese Words and 

Phrases 117 



133 



134 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Foot-wear 29 

Fukura 89 

Fuji 17, 34, 63 

Geisha Girls 50 

Gotemba 63 

Great Bell at Kioto 71 

Great Bell at Nara 80 

Guides 24 

Haiki no 

Hakone District 34 

Hakone Lake 36 

Hase 31 

Hibachi (Warming Pot) . . . . 53 

Higashi-Hongwanji Temple, Tokio 46 

Hikone 74 

Homeward bound 113 

Honesty 43 

Imperial Government Railway . . 48 

Imperial Laboratory 28 

Imperial Palace 48 

Inland Sea 92 

Inn, Description of ..... . 88 

Insatsu Kioku (Printing Bureau) . 57 

Jinrikisha Coolies 106 

Jinrikishas 18 

Journey Westward 11 

Junikai Tower 47 

Kamakura 31 

Kanagawa 24 

Kanazawa 24 

Katase 31 

Kawatana 106 

Kiga 35 

Kioto 67 

Kioto Hotels 68 

Kioto Temples 69 



Kobe 82 

Kobe Hotels 83 

Kochi 91 

Kodzu 34 

Koishikawa Arsenal and Garden , 48 

Koransha Pottery 108 

Kumagawa Rapids 112 

Kumamoto in 

Kurasaki (Giant Tree) .... 74 

Kutsuragawa Rapids 72 

Kwannon, Figure of 31 

Lacquer Ware 27 

Letters of Introduction .... 5 

Luncheon, Japanese 54 

Mats, House 52 

Mikado's Exclusiveness .... 49 

Mikado's Palaces, Kioto .... 71 

Mikado's Railway Coach .... 49 

Mississippi Bay 25 

Misumi 112 

Miyanoshita ........ 35 

Mogi loi 

Moji 94 

Money, Japanese 19 

Morality 41 

Muki 89 

Nagasaki 97 

Nagasaki Hotels 98 

Nagoya 64 

Nagoya Castle ....... 64 

Nara 79 

Nara Temples 79 

Naruto Passage 89 

Negishi Cemetery ...... t^-^ 

Nikko 59 

Nunobiki Waterfalls .84 

Odawara 34 



INDEX. 



135 



PAGE 

Ojigoku 36 

Old Castle, Osaka 77 

Omura, Gulf of 104 

Osaka 'jd 

Oshima 40 

Passports 6, 20 

Photographs 28 

Pillow, Japanese 87 

Police 23 

Politeness 41 

Porcelain Painting 78 

Postal Service 23 

Preface 3 

Railways 22 

Sacred Bridge, Nikko 60 

Sajiki 112 

Sanitary Systems, Lack of . . . 88 

Sensoji Temple, Tokio .... 46 

Shampooer 40 

Shiba Park and Temples .... 50 

Shikoku Island 89 

Shimbashi Station 44 

Shimonoseki 94 

Shimonoseki to Nagasaki ... 95 

Shops 25 

Silks and Embroideries .... 68 

Social Courtesies 51 

Soraban 19 

Southwest from Tokio 6-^ 

Stature of Japanese 77 

Sumoto 86 

Takaido (National Highway) . . 63 

Takarazuka 84 

Telegraph Service 23 

Theatres 33 



PAGE 

Tokio 44 

Tokio Hotels 45 

Tokio Streets 45 

Tokitsu 104 

Tokushima 90 

Tomioka (Shikoku) 90 

Tomioka (Yokohama) 24 

Tonasawa 34 

Tortoise-shell Shops, Nagasaki . 100 

Treaty Ports 20 

Tunnel Rock at Atami .... 39 

Type Characters and Setting . . 57 

Urakami 104 

Ureshino 106 

Uyeno Park 47 

Vancouver, B.C 12 

Venus, A Japanese 109 

Victoria, B.C 15 

Visiting Cards 6 

Women of Tokushima .... 90 

Yatsushiro 112 

Yokohama 17 

Yokohama Hotels 18 

Yokosuka 32 

Yumoto 34 

Appendix : — 

Japanese Money 115 

Distance Measure . . . .■ . 115 

Cloth Measure 115 

Land Measure 115 

Rates of Passage on Japanese 

Steamers 115 

Pronunciation 116 

Words and Phrases . . .117-132 



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